How much of what powder?

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pepperbelly

45 Cal.
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I need to order some powder from[url] powderinc.com[/url]. I have a .50 percussion rifle.
Their minimum order size is 5 pounds, which is what I plan on ordering.
I figure on ordering at least 4 pounds of FFg. Should I order one of FFFg?
I don't have a flint so I don't need any FFFFg.
Should I just go with all 5 of FFg?

Jim
 
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If it were me for a .50 cal i would order all 3f. You will use less, have less fouling, and it has worked well in all of my .50's. I use it for everything up to and including the .12 ga. I know most will say it is too fast for the .12 but it patterns the best in mine for some reason. 70 grs of powder and 90 grs (1 1/4 oz) of shot.
 
pepperbelly said:
I need to order some powder from[url] powderinc.com[/url]. I have a .50 percussion rifle.
Their minimum order size is 5 pounds, which is what I plan on ordering.
I figure on ordering at least 4 pounds of FFg. Should I order one of FFFg?
I don't have a flint so I don't need any FFFFg.
Should I just go with all 5 of FFg?

Jim
Since you're asking, I'll volunteer that you might consider getting 3F.
I use Goex 3F in almost all calibers...it's faster of course and leaves less fouling than 2F...very, very, little fouling to be exact when using NL1000 or Hoppes No9 PLUS...normal 2F charges can be reduced by 10-15% keep the pressures in the same range.
 
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Well then, if noone else has a strong argument for the FFg I'll buy 5 pounds of FFFg then.

Jim
 
Well Rebel, ya know, my mind is like a steel trap.


Kinda rusty and creaks a little! :grin:

Jim
 
pepperbelly said:
I need to order some powder from[url] powderinc.com[/url]. I have a .50 percussion rifle.
Their minimum order size is 5 pounds, which is what I plan on ordering.
I figure on ordering at least 4 pounds of FFg. Should I order one of FFFg?
I don't have a flint so I don't need any FFFFg.
Should I just go with all 5 of FFg?

Jim

FFFG should work best. Better velocity for charge weight. Less fouling.

Dan
 
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If you're shooting your rifle for the first time, you might want to get some of both. The only reason I say this is my .50 won't group a darn with FFFg. I wish it did though, for all the reasons the others have stated above.
 
I use 2f in everything from my 36 to my 12 guage. I don't need to try and wring the last little bit of speed from any of the guns. The 12 guage kicks like a mule with 3f. The Mountain rifle loves RS better than any other powder if you are looking for little bitty groups at distance. The 36 is the only one that will not do as well with 2f as with 3f. It likes 3f 777 best.
I would use real black if it was available close by. I shoot RS these days because it is what is available. I am not handicapped in anyway in my caplocks using Pyrodex, but the flinter is gathering dust these days. I carried the Mountain rifle loaded with RS until Monday. I fired it and reloaded because of how damp it was with all the rain. It fired instantly like I had just loaded it. I patched it about 10 patches worth on both sides and reloaded it. The next day the barrel started to turn brown inside from the remaining fouling in the very humid after rain woods. A patch with a little BB worked in was used on the loaded rifle to protect the barrel above the ball until it is cleaned.
Pyrodex is harder to ignite, but it is a completely workable replacement for real black in caplocks. The deer don't stand there and laugh because I am using Pyrodex!
I am hunting one of the hardest type of whitetail hunts there is. Big woods, low population of deer that are very wary all the time, along with difficult steep ridge country. Believe me when I say that if I thought my powder was going to let me down, I would not be using it. This is my second full season there and I have not killed a deer so far. Black is better, but Pyrodex is perfectly usable.
 
Order only 3Fg powder. You are shooting percussion. Testing shows that you get the best SDV when the powder is compressed, and FFFg powder compresses much better, and gives the lower SDV than does FFg powder. If you must, order 1 can of FFg and try both powders in the gun. See which shoots the best. But, based on a lot of work by others, you will find FFFg produces the best accuracy in that gun. If you do buy a Flintlock in the future, then use FFg powder in that. If you need to understand why, PM me, and I will explain in further detail.
 
I ordered 5 pounds of FFFg from Powderinc today.
Howefully it will be here by Thanksgiving, but I really doubt it.

Jim
 
Good: You asked also, how much powder? I am assuming the question pertains to recommended loads for your rifle?

You will need an adjustable powder measure that measures powder by volume, not by weight. You can find them available from many suppliers. Check TOTW's website, and on-line catalog to see what is available. I recommend buying one of the two box designed Tedd cash cappers. One looks oval in shape( I have it) , and the other looks like a huge comma ( , ). Both are well made, available in brass or silver plate, or steel. You can buy cheaper " stick " cappers, but they expose the caps to lint, and weather, while these cash cappers will protect the caps from everything.

As to powder charge, you can do credible target shooting and small game shooting out to 25 yards with loads as small as 22 grains of FFFg. However, you probably will want to start at 45 grains and work up and down a bit, in 5 grain increments. When I was shooting a short barreled .45( 25" barrel) I settled on a load of 50 grains of FFFg powder, and got fine accuracy at 50 yards. My brother has a new 37" barreled percussion .45 that likes 40 grains for target work, and will shoot 60 grains at 1950 fps, which is up there in the gee whiz category. All that velocity is lost fairly rapidly, but the ball will hit 12 inch gongs at 135 yards all day long with that load. If I were going to use your gun for hunting deer, I would use 55-60 grains of FFFg, aiming for accuracy, and limit my shooting to no more than 60 yards. In heavy woods, 60 yards is a long way. Most deer are shot well under 50 yards. My shortest shot was 6 feet!, and the longest to date was just about 40 yards.

I hope that information helps you with a starting point. There are many different sized .45 caliber rifles but from the information on this site, I believe you can do best using .440" caliber lead balls, and a .015 lubricated patch,with your T/C rifle.
 
Paul, I have a .50 caliber TC Hawken, so the .440 balls might be a problem. :wink:

As for how much I was wondering if I should buy 2 or 3 pounds of one and 2 or 3 pounds of the other- FFg and FFFg.
I just bought 5 of the FFFg.
I sent a postal money order today, so maybe it will be here by Thanksgiving. The guy I talked to was very nice and said it would go out quickly, so maybe it will be here.

Thanks everybody,
Jim
 
Opps, I thought I read you had a .45.

On your .50, try starting with 50 grains and work up to 80. On the high end is a good load for hunting. The low end is more than adequate for target work. For short yardage, try 27.5 grains of FFFg powder. Really, even that small amount of work sends a ball out of your barrel very accurately to a 25 yard target. Not much noise, but that 175 grain ball will roll any rat, rabbit, squirrel, ground hog, fox, or coyote in that range. I am using the .490 Diameter RB in my gun with .015 to .020" patches. I lube my own, only because I am so cheap! :rotf: The tighter patches make for tighter groups, but the thinner patchs make it easier to load my rifle for hunting in the field.

I am now shooting FFg powder in my .50, but I started out shooting FFFg powder in the rifle when it was originally a percussion action gun. The loading data I have suggested is based on that early work. I changed powders when I converted the gun to flintlock, and haven't looked back.
 
Does the FFg in your flintlock ignite more quickly or consistantly than the FFFg? I know some lack of compression of the charge (while maintaining a fully seated ball) is supposed to benefit in that respect.
 

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