oldwoodswalker said:
Ahem...., please note:
:wink:
How much powder to use?
- Thread starter Bobwhyte
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Ahem...., please note:
Mr. Bob: You're probably already at the range- I'm late on this one.
I have a pretty strong suspicion that the "load" amount you are looking for has to do with accuracy.
For accuracy, I myself feel there is one true powder charge that will be best- maybe only by a small margin- but for target events- there is that one optimal load.
BUT......for hunting you might want to bump up the charge a little to get a higher velocity and more killing power.
That 60 grain charge to start out with- I would think that is a good beginning. On a round ball in 50 caliber a 90 grain charge ought to do in most deer. Going beyond 90 grains may or may not add any velocity. Some times you are just needlessly burning up powder.
Okay- on the powder, figure real black and play around with 60 to 90 grain charges in 5 grain increments.
BUT....that's not the whole story. You have a patch and in many instances a thicker patch will produce better accuracy. The lube you use on the patch also influences accuracy. You might use a spit patch at the range but you'll need a lube for hunting.
Then there is the ball itself. You likely have .490 diameter balls. If your accuracy isn't what you want you could try a .495- tighter fit and you need a thinner patch.
AND....sometimes- although not often- a felt wad over the powder charge and underneath the prb improves accuracy. That is, pour the powder, put in the wad, then seat the PRB. I'm not sure why the wad sometimes improves things unless it has to do with the groove depth on your particular barrel. Deep grooves might need a better seal.
I have a pretty strong suspicion that the "load" amount you are looking for has to do with accuracy.
For accuracy, I myself feel there is one true powder charge that will be best- maybe only by a small margin- but for target events- there is that one optimal load.
BUT......for hunting you might want to bump up the charge a little to get a higher velocity and more killing power.
That 60 grain charge to start out with- I would think that is a good beginning. On a round ball in 50 caliber a 90 grain charge ought to do in most deer. Going beyond 90 grains may or may not add any velocity. Some times you are just needlessly burning up powder.
Okay- on the powder, figure real black and play around with 60 to 90 grain charges in 5 grain increments.
BUT....that's not the whole story. You have a patch and in many instances a thicker patch will produce better accuracy. The lube you use on the patch also influences accuracy. You might use a spit patch at the range but you'll need a lube for hunting.
Then there is the ball itself. You likely have .490 diameter balls. If your accuracy isn't what you want you could try a .495- tighter fit and you need a thinner patch.
AND....sometimes- although not often- a felt wad over the powder charge and underneath the prb improves accuracy. That is, pour the powder, put in the wad, then seat the PRB. I'm not sure why the wad sometimes improves things unless it has to do with the groove depth on your particular barrel. Deep grooves might need a better seal.
Billnpatti
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The general rule of thumb is to use a number of grains equal to the caliber as a starting point. In the case of your rifle, that would be 50 grains. Black powder only. Substitutes will not work in a flintlock. Make several shots from a solid bench rest to see how that load is working for you. Wipe your bore between shots using any solvent that you choose but only put a small amount on your patch. Just slightly damp, not wet. Run the patch down your bore with a single stroke and then out with a single stroke. No pumping. You are not cleaning your bore, only keeping it consistent from shot to shot. So long as the balls are hitting the paper, don't worry about exactly where they are hitting. At this point, all you are looking for is the group size. For all shots, hold dead center on your bulls eye. Don't adjust your point of aim, just keep holding on the dead center of the bulls eye. Now, increase your charge by 5 grains and repeat the test. Continue doing this with a fresh target for each powder charge until you reach 100 grains. Now, examine each target to see which charge gave you the tightest group. This is your best charge for that rifle. Now is the time to adjust your sights to move the group to hit dead center of the bulls eye with what you have determined to be your most accurate charge.
Go to this website www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com and order a copy of Dutch's accuracy system. it is only $20 and will serve you well for as long as you are shooting muzzleloading rifles. Thoroughly read and understand what he is telling you and then follow his instructions to the letter and you will be amazed by the accuracy your rifle is capable of. I guarantee you won't be dissatisfied with your investment.
Go to this website www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com and order a copy of Dutch's accuracy system. it is only $20 and will serve you well for as long as you are shooting muzzleloading rifles. Thoroughly read and understand what he is telling you and then follow his instructions to the letter and you will be amazed by the accuracy your rifle is capable of. I guarantee you won't be dissatisfied with your investment.
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Years ago I belonged to a shooting club, we set the targets at about 30 yards or so and the normal load was around 35 grains of powder. We found that at that range that load would just about equal a hunting load at 100 yards, so it gave us some good practice for hunting, those who hunted. This would vary of course from rifle to rifle, but you don't need a full house load to practice with, easier on you and the rifle. When ever I take one of my rifles out for a run I usually stick with that old 35 grn.load, and only use the full loads for my particular rifle when I want to try reaching out there and touching something in the distance. I use this same principle when loading my black powder cartridges, "lighter is better."
Ibid.hanshi said:
