How Often to Linseed Oil a Traditional Rifle Stock

[deerstalkert]

Renaissance wax once every quarter if they are being used. if they are just lazing in the cabinet once a year.

 

[Bad Karma]

As I had mentioned earlier, use a good linseed oil based finish with driers, such as the artists' boiled linseed oil (with driers) or Birchwood Casey's True Oil or Tried and True Oil. Some of furniture finishing Tung oils have driers and they work too. The oil finishes over some varnishes such as applied by Pedersoli won't be good. Wax may be the recoating application to choose.

Whatever refinish you choose, try it first in some part that is hidden from view, such as the barrel channel or the interior of the lock mortise.

You can buy Japan Drier from fine woodworking shops or artist supply houses. Added to linseed oil and you have “boiled“ linseed oil.

 

[wb78963]

if you are treating a stock for the first coat I suggest Truoil and real spirits of turpentine 50:50 rub it in and let it cure for a day or two; Buff it with a clean cloth and do it again. three treatments and you have a bullet proof finish
Bunk.

 

[BS]

Make sure you use boiled linseed oil. Raw never dries - though that was what was used on British long arms through WWII.

I use a boiled linseed oil wipe - maybe semi-annually - and wipe down with Bri-Wax a couple times a year.

They now make Polymerized Linseed, it has been cooked, and that helps it to dry. Tried and True is Polymerized.

I also just tried Watco Satin Wax and really like it. I put it on a dull flat colored stock that I made this year and it really made the the wood grain come to life.

Windex and Alcohol don't bother it.

I may try the Type F and see if I like it.

 

[Jim Wag]

Once a day for a week. Once a week for a month. Once a month for a year. Then Once a year. Works wonders on my axe handles!

I'm going to
Have to
Write that down

Jim in La Luz

 

[SolidLeadSlug]

I re-did a gras rifle stock in the hot sun this summer when it was 110. Let it heat for a few hours almost untill it was too hot to touch. I didn't even need to wipe the stock after because the wood drank up as much oil after the wood grain opened up.

 

[TDDredge]

Does your rifle already have an linseed oil finish? If it is a modern finish such as on a factory made traditions or Pedersoli gun then linseed oil will not soak into the stock. It will just make a sticky mess. If it’s an original linseed finish that’s been on there for years then a very light coat once a year is fine but not necessary. If it is an oil finish with a varnish or poly topcoat it will not soak in oil either. If it’s a modern finish I suggest using a stock wax. I personally use Howard’s feed and wax on all my guns. Modern and oil finished. Linseed oil over time soaks up dirt and grime and makes a gunstock almost black.

Glad I hadn't put any on it. It's a pedersoli. I'll look into that wax! How often do you wax it?

 

[TDDredge]

As I had mentioned earlier, use a good linseed oil based finish with driers, such as the artists' boiled linseed oil (with driers) or Birchwood Casey's True Oil or Tried and True Oil. Some of furniture finishing Tung oils have driers and they work too. The oil finishes over some varnishes such as applied by Pedersoli won't be good. Wax may be the recoating application to choose.

Whatever refinish you choose, try it first in some part that is hidden from view, such as the barrel channel or the interior of the lock mortise.

Barrel channel got some beeswax, but the lock mortise is open. It is a pedersoli, so I saw some wax suggestions. I'll look into those.

 

[TreeMan]

Glad I hadn't put any on it. It's a pedersoli. I'll look into that wax! How often do you wax it?

Like I stated earlier I use Howard’s feed and wax. Think of it as furniture and furniture polish. Do it when it needs it. Howard’s is a good metal preservative too. I use it on a patch to protect the outside and the bores of my guns. Seems to work as good as anything else. There were some rust tests performed using different Lubes on steel plates posted recently. Howard’s was right up there in the top ten or so with other rust preventatives. A little of it goes a long ways.

 

[tom_in_vt]

Do any of you cost the inside of the stock occasionally to prevent drying/cracking?

 

[TFoley]

Do any of you cost the inside of the stock occasionally to prevent drying/cracking?

Bearing in mind that unless you live in Alaska, any of us here in UK live way North of you and the weather is quite different to yours. This means that we tend not to suffer the vast temperature fluctuations you have that can play merry he** with the wooden bits of your precious guns.

I have just five BP long arms, three of which have never been taken apart in living memory - perhaps ever since they were made. The two modern repros, both from Parker-Hale, get an annual barrel-out clean-up which includes a good wipe over with BLO in the barrel channel, leaving overnight, and then a wipe up. I've been doing this to the Musketoon since 1974 - still looks good.

 

[TDDredge]

Like I stated earlier I use Howard’s feed and wax. Think of it as furniture and furniture polish. Do it when it needs it. Howard’s is a good metal preservative too. I use it on a patch to protect the outside and the bores of my guns. Seems to work as good as anything else. There were some rust tests performed using different Lubes on steel plates posted recently. Howard’s was right up there in the top ten or so with other rust preventatives. A little of it goes a long ways.

I'm definitely looking into this stuff. I'm currently using slip 2000 EWL (oh yeah, I know exactly how over the top that is) on the barrel and bore since I had it on hand and it's synthetic so it shouldn't gum up with black powder, and have a couple other slip 2000 black powder products on the way. But I'll get some of this wax, and work it into the rotation then if I like it, transition to it. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[Bucolic Buffalo]

I often use those pre-treated cloths for a quick wipe down. I think I have seen a Slip 2000 cloth and I know I have several Wilson Combat around here.

But when I sit down and do a good cleaning, I have moved to a wax for the outside of all my guns. Renaissance Wax is a museum quality product. Alfie Shine is another that is popular with tool handle guys. I have both. I like the smell of the Alfie Shine.

 

[mushka]

when I got my TVM rifle from them, the recommended the type F tranny fluid for putting on the external part of the rifle. This is the builder recommending what to use on their rifles. I got a quart of it and it will last longer than I will.

 

[Art Caputo]

How I treat the stock depends on its existing finish. I have generally avoided BLO due to it’s tackiness and water absorbing characteristics, preferring linseed oil blends containing distillates/driers(ie TOTW Original Oil). Mostly, I just apply a good coat of wax at the start and close of hunting season.

 

[sqqy14]

I've done dozens of stocks and the only ones that I use boiled linseed oil on are walnut.
Walnut drinks it...wipe off the excess after 20 minutes. six to eight coats comes out really nice.
All other woods, I use Tru-oil.