kyleschumacher
32 Cal.
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what is a good way to artificially age a steel trimmed longrifle?
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how to age steel parts
- Thread starter kyleschumacher
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cannonball jr said:
Disassemble the rifle. Oil & plug the bore & vent/nipple. Cold blue the steel/iron parts with Birchwood Casey bluing. On a WARM humid day, take parts outside under awning or open roofed area & Mist/spray parts with a mixture of 70% Clorox & 30% water. You want to Mist it, no droplets of solution, so it is important you try several spray bottles to insure it mists, as droplets screw it up.
In about 20 min you are going to sh$$ a brick & think you have ruined it, cause it is going to look downright awful. :shocked2: Have faith. Let it sit about 3-4 hrs. If the barrel dries in an hour, remist it & keep it damp.
Then take it to the water faucet & rinse all parts. Then take a paper towel & dry parts, then totally soak it with allot of WD-40 & rub the barrel down with a brown paper bag or paper towels with WD-40 on it. Repeat this for a day. If it is too aged, rub back with 0000 steel wool soaked with WD-40 to desired texture & look you want. It is very easy to rub it too much & take all the aging off, so do a little at a time. You can easily take more if you want any time. Do it with the sights on & don't rub near the breech and around sights as much, to give it a less worn look there as it would not normally wear there.
If you are leery of this procedure, test it out on a piece of mild steel from Lowes til you acquire the type of finish you want, then do the rifle.
Keith Lisle
Welcome to the Forum.
While I have no problem with folks "aging" their firearms, one should remember that if the gun is ever going to be put up for sale that most buyers judge a gun by the appearance of its exterior.
To most buyers, especially those not interested in owning a wall hanger, a badly rusted, pitted or visually damaged gun isn't worth a second glance.
They figure a gun that looks like that must be a total disaster.
Yes, there are a few who want an aged looking gun that is mechanically in excellent condition but these people are the exception.
If you want the gun for yourself and never plan on selling it then use the methods outlined by the others here on the Forum.
Be careful of the Bleach. It will attack the steel with a vengeance and rapidly rust and pit the surfaces.
For this reason go to extra special lengths to protect the bore of the barrel and any threads in the parts.
While I have no problem with folks "aging" their firearms, one should remember that if the gun is ever going to be put up for sale that most buyers judge a gun by the appearance of its exterior.
To most buyers, especially those not interested in owning a wall hanger, a badly rusted, pitted or visually damaged gun isn't worth a second glance.
They figure a gun that looks like that must be a total disaster.
Yes, there are a few who want an aged looking gun that is mechanically in excellent condition but these people are the exception.
If you want the gun for yourself and never plan on selling it then use the methods outlined by the others here on the Forum.
Be careful of the Bleach. It will attack the steel with a vengeance and rapidly rust and pit the surfaces.
For this reason go to extra special lengths to protect the bore of the barrel and any threads in the parts.
With all due respect I'd disagree - there are in fact LOTS of folks looking for aged goods. Not only am I in the business and see it first hand, but just look at any historical/re-enactors based forum (from the way back past all the way up through even the Viet Nam guys) and look how often the question is asked how-to age ones goods.
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I have to agree with Chuck. Artificial ageing is getting more popular by the day, and for most all period gear from clothing to guns and knives. It is rare that I get orders for bright finished knives and new looking sheaths. Probably less than 10 to 1.
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A lot of us are getting to old to wait very long.
kyleschumacher
32 Cal.
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Keith, Thanks for the info! I think Ill give it a try. The gun is a virginia style trimmed in steel. Ive built a couple rifles all trimmed in brass, a couple I browned the barrels, blued one and left a couple bright. I think they all look good but I want to try to add a little bit of aged patina on this steel trimmed virginia. Ill keep you updated on my progress!
Thanks, Kyle Schumacher
Thanks, Kyle Schumacher
Capt. Jas.
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:rotf: I know you are kidding right? I would bet it is the majority and not the exception based on the tables at the CLA and websites.Zonie said:
Am I hearing that the typical muzzleloader found in the local pawn shop or gun store that looks like it slid down a mountain side after being left out in the rain and snow for a year is going to sell faster than one that was a closet queen?
Perhaps the owners of these stores will take note and raise their prices 3-4 hundred dollars for these guns?
I don't think so.
It's just my opinion but yes, the small group of people who attend muzzleloading events and special shows aimed at these people will be knowledgeable about quality arms that have been aged, but the typical person I meet at the local gunshows is not one of these people.
They think in modern ways and judge a gun which looks in almost new condition as being better than one that looks like it has had 200 years of mis-use and rough treatment.
I wonder if some of our members would be happy with a gun from TVM that arrived beat all to hell and rusted to boot? I think not.
Perhaps the owners of these stores will take note and raise their prices 3-4 hundred dollars for these guns?
I don't think so.
It's just my opinion but yes, the small group of people who attend muzzleloading events and special shows aimed at these people will be knowledgeable about quality arms that have been aged, but the typical person I meet at the local gunshows is not one of these people.
They think in modern ways and judge a gun which looks in almost new condition as being better than one that looks like it has had 200 years of mis-use and rough treatment.
I wonder if some of our members would be happy with a gun from TVM that arrived beat all to hell and rusted to boot? I think not.
I think you are thinking of two totally dif. kinds of buyers. Guys in most gun shows & pawn shops looking at ML's are looking for are looking for fast & cheap.
IMHO, Guys in most gun shops & most gun shows are comparing ALL rifles to the looks of a modern rifle. So to them a rusted, browned, aged, anything other than perfectly blued one, is not good. :shake: In this instance, a aged one would not sell well, be it yours, one of mine, etc.
IMHO, Most guys that come to gun shows & in the general gun shops are totally ignorant when it comes to hand built ML. I am not faulting them, just stating a fact. :idunno: They would look at a Hershal House rifle, think "what a old piece of manure" & walk on by it at a price of $200. :grin:
Some of the rifles I build are browned & some are aged metal. Really doesn't matter to me which way they want them, as long as they are pleased. In the past few years, a more are asking for them aged, and say by use in hunting, the wood will age much faster than the iron, thus why they want them aged..... Are they right ? wrong ? it really doesn't matter, they are buying it, they are paying for it, that is all that matters.
For me, aging metal on one has not seemed to hurt the selling price or the resale of the one or two out of dozens I have built, that happened to end up resold. I have yet had one say to me "Man, I would buy that if you had not aged the barrel." And even if he did, it would not bother me. The next guy may love it & if so, great. If not, that is Great too, as I never get to keep them as long as I want to.....
Tho I like the looks of aged wood, I have yet to bring myself to take a $500 piece of wood & beat the living H out of it. I just bring myself to do it. I hand pick my stocks, I treat them like babies from the time I get it til it is owned by someone else, but to take a hammer, chain, whatever & intentionally beat them up after I have spend weeks of work on it trying to get it just so-so........ :idunno: don't want to do that.
Now a plain piece of wood I might could do that some day, however, I cannot remember the last time I used a plain piece of wood. I well over 75 stock blanks on hand & I know for a fact there is only One plain one there. It is Ash, plain straight grain hard Ash I bought it with full intentions of beating the manure out of it. Every time I start another one, I pick it up, look at it, consider it, put it back & get one with some awesome curl & go with it. :idunno: Maybe some day...
I have had several people comment on my rifles they don't think they look correct with the barrel aged & the stocks finely finished. And that is OK, it doesn't bother me, they have a right to an opinion & I can deal with that. I build them a way I am comfortable with & if I am not, I simply don't build it.
But I say if you are building it & you want the metal aged, do it. Don't worry about what others want on it, if it is for YOU. If you are worried of if you can sell it, then I suggest you build what is selling, be it browned, aged or blued. When I build an extra one, that is not a consideration as I am perfectly happy with keeping one now & then. I would not build one if I HAD to sell it, knowing I needed the $ back.. For me that would ruin the pleasure of the build.
I guess I kinda got away from the original post of "How to Age it........ I start out aging metal & end up washing an elephant......
Keith Lisle :idunno: :rotf: :rotf:
IMHO, Guys in most gun shops & most gun shows are comparing ALL rifles to the looks of a modern rifle. So to them a rusted, browned, aged, anything other than perfectly blued one, is not good. :shake: In this instance, a aged one would not sell well, be it yours, one of mine, etc.
IMHO, Most guys that come to gun shows & in the general gun shops are totally ignorant when it comes to hand built ML. I am not faulting them, just stating a fact. :idunno: They would look at a Hershal House rifle, think "what a old piece of manure" & walk on by it at a price of $200. :grin:
Some of the rifles I build are browned & some are aged metal. Really doesn't matter to me which way they want them, as long as they are pleased. In the past few years, a more are asking for them aged, and say by use in hunting, the wood will age much faster than the iron, thus why they want them aged..... Are they right ? wrong ? it really doesn't matter, they are buying it, they are paying for it, that is all that matters.
For me, aging metal on one has not seemed to hurt the selling price or the resale of the one or two out of dozens I have built, that happened to end up resold. I have yet had one say to me "Man, I would buy that if you had not aged the barrel." And even if he did, it would not bother me. The next guy may love it & if so, great. If not, that is Great too, as I never get to keep them as long as I want to.....
Tho I like the looks of aged wood, I have yet to bring myself to take a $500 piece of wood & beat the living H out of it. I just bring myself to do it. I hand pick my stocks, I treat them like babies from the time I get it til it is owned by someone else, but to take a hammer, chain, whatever & intentionally beat them up after I have spend weeks of work on it trying to get it just so-so........ :idunno: don't want to do that.
Now a plain piece of wood I might could do that some day, however, I cannot remember the last time I used a plain piece of wood. I well over 75 stock blanks on hand & I know for a fact there is only One plain one there. It is Ash, plain straight grain hard Ash I bought it with full intentions of beating the manure out of it. Every time I start another one, I pick it up, look at it, consider it, put it back & get one with some awesome curl & go with it. :idunno: Maybe some day...
I have had several people comment on my rifles they don't think they look correct with the barrel aged & the stocks finely finished. And that is OK, it doesn't bother me, they have a right to an opinion & I can deal with that. I build them a way I am comfortable with & if I am not, I simply don't build it.
But I say if you are building it & you want the metal aged, do it. Don't worry about what others want on it, if it is for YOU. If you are worried of if you can sell it, then I suggest you build what is selling, be it browned, aged or blued. When I build an extra one, that is not a consideration as I am perfectly happy with keeping one now & then. I would not build one if I HAD to sell it, knowing I needed the $ back.. For me that would ruin the pleasure of the build.
I guess I kinda got away from the original post of "How to Age it........ I start out aging metal & end up washing an elephant......
Keith Lisle :idunno: :rotf: :rotf:
Mike Brooks
Cannon
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Probably 95% of my orders request an aged gun. The other 5% I turn down as I find a new finish pretty boring to put on, takes away the warmth and charm of the gun. I've been aging guns since the mid 80's, so it isn't a rescent phenomenon.
Thank you BD6 for taking the time to clarify what I was trying to say.
Yes, I am well aware of the people who are knowledgeable about old guns should look like and I know that many of those wanting a custom built rifle want it to carry a patina that is fitting for an old, well cared for gun.
If the original poster has a modern steel mounted recreation of an original style gun a aged patina may be just the ticket and it may appeal to folks interested in owning it, or a similar gun.
Not knowing whether his gun is of this style or it is a modern TC Hawken or Lyman that would appeal to the typical un-knowledgable buyers who are often in the market for these guns was the cause of my mentioning that aging may damage its re-saleability.
With these modern Italian/Spanish or TC guns I myself knock off at least $200 from my offer if the gun appears "aged" or otherwise damaged.
Yes, I am well aware of the people who are knowledgeable about old guns should look like and I know that many of those wanting a custom built rifle want it to carry a patina that is fitting for an old, well cared for gun.
If the original poster has a modern steel mounted recreation of an original style gun a aged patina may be just the ticket and it may appeal to folks interested in owning it, or a similar gun.
Not knowing whether his gun is of this style or it is a modern TC Hawken or Lyman that would appeal to the typical un-knowledgable buyers who are often in the market for these guns was the cause of my mentioning that aging may damage its re-saleability.
With these modern Italian/Spanish or TC guns I myself knock off at least $200 from my offer if the gun appears "aged" or otherwise damaged.
Capt. Fred
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The way I do it is by rusting it. It ends up with a slightly different look than the bleach method but takes longer. I have a sweat box and that gets it done in two or three days.
I use the LMF browning solution. Prep all the steel like you normally would, put on a heavy coat of LMF and hang it all in a sweat box or damp, warm bathroom. Let it rust for 12 hours or so, put on another coat of LMF, 12 more hours, then a third coat if it still seems uneven. Overall I usually get it all done in two or three days depending on how warm and humid it is in my shop. (In the winter the tiny crock pot in my sweat box has trouble keeping up with the heat loss.)
Then comes the work. I use naval jelly, scotch brite pads, and sand paper to remove the rust. Then I rub it all down with some cold blue and steel wool back to the patina I'm looking for.
I use the LMF browning solution. Prep all the steel like you normally would, put on a heavy coat of LMF and hang it all in a sweat box or damp, warm bathroom. Let it rust for 12 hours or so, put on another coat of LMF, 12 more hours, then a third coat if it still seems uneven. Overall I usually get it all done in two or three days depending on how warm and humid it is in my shop. (In the winter the tiny crock pot in my sweat box has trouble keeping up with the heat loss.)
Then comes the work. I use naval jelly, scotch brite pads, and sand paper to remove the rust. Then I rub it all down with some cold blue and steel wool back to the patina I'm looking for.
Capt. Fred said:
Fred, I'm still somewhat of a neophyte to some things like this and have a question:
I've take a couple of long rifle barrels now...one browned and one aged...and sanded each of them down to the bare metal.
I then wiped on some B/C Cold Blue paste out of a tube until the barrels were almost black, then rubbed them back gently with 0000 steel wool wet with WD40 until I reached the shade of gray I wanted.
Your final activity seems to be exactly the same as what I just described...ie: you ultimately sand everything back off to the bare metal...so what is the point of 'rusting' your barrel in the first place?
