How to keep yer gun loaded for an extended period

[Greenmtnboy]

Before I load I swab out my cylinders with 90% rubbing alc.. I then load my charge of thirty grns of fffg goex then I put a dry wad over my powder(I have found a greased wad foules powder over time)seat my .457 ball then a combo of deer tallow and marmot oil over the ball.
I loaded and carried my 1860 44 cap & ball for almost a year.
Muzzleloading season is just around the corner so I shot it to clean and reload before season. I shot it on paper to see if it's just as dead nutts as it was when I loaded it in Nov for back up bunny hunting.
yup...

It's the top target at 25 yrds rested five shots

 

[LeeinVA]

Nice group, but with muzzle three inches from target i believe you could do better :rotf: :rotf:

 

[Greenmtnboy]

Nice group, but with muzzle three inches from target i believe you could do better :rotf: :rotf:

It's the top target at 25 yrds rested five shots.

musta missed it.
:wink:

 

[LeeinVA]

That is a right good grouping with a revolver not having a top strap.. :thumbsup:

 

[Greenmtnboy]

It was a sale item at Sportsmans warehouse(display model)
I have always been a Remington man but after reading Mike Venturino's shooting the colt single six I new I NEEDED one.
This one shot this good out of the box with a hot 30 grn fffg load and a .457 ball.
I had Coyote Joe put a big front blade on it for me and I filed the hammer notch for windage.

 

[wattlebuster]

Thats some fine shooting. Ive left my old army loaded for quite some time an it like yours has always fired off real good :thumbsup:

 

[bdhutier]

I had always thought about sealing the cylinder with beeswax. What's your opinion?

 

[scott taylor]

Ive got a Colts .36 calibre belt model(51 Navy)replica thats been loaded for at least a couple of years. Powder, ball and a beewax-mutton tallow mix to seal the chambers with RWS caps. I have total confidence in it.
For my .44's I would sautee wads made from wore out cowboy hats in melted beewax and tallow or even Lyman Alox.
Once I got the mix too soupy and the powder and the wad lube kinda intermingled and the wads would stick to a steel target and burn a couple of seconds.

More to come if anybody is interested
Scott

 

[scott taylor]

GMB- I fear that I got a little overexuberant and hi-jacked your thread. I apolojize. Not used to this stuff yet.

Scott

 

[CoyoteJoe]

We all get "exuberant" about gun stuff, that's why we have this forum. :thumbsup:

 

[msuspartan]

Are you talking sealing it over the ball, wad, powder? Have considered leaving my walker loaded.

GMB, REALLY nice grouping. :thumbsup:

Thanks

Cheers, DonK

 

[Rhett Griffith]

I've left my 1860 Army loaded for about a month (that's about as long as I can go without shooting it :wink: ) with Crisco over the balls. It went off immediately with no problems. The Crisco was getting a little hard from air exposure, so I think I would use some other lube for extended periods. Does deer tallow harden over time?

 

[bdhutier]

Are you talking sealing it over the ball, wad, powder? Have considered leaving my walker loaded.

Yep, load the cylinder, then pour a thin bit of beeswax over the ball. Not sure how you'd moisture-seal the nipple end, though. :idunno:

 

[junkman_01]

Same way. With bees wax.

 

[Greenmtnboy]

I had always thought about sealing the cylinder with beeswax. What's your opinion?

I have found that beeswax to hard and effects accuracy.
Deer or elk tallow and marmote oil(you can use bear oil or woodchuck,bever, muskrat) to be stiff enough to withstand hot summer days but plyable enough not to get to hard wile hunting in the winter.
:thumbsup:

 

[msuspartan]

I would think putting beeswax or any other seal on the nipple would cause it not to fire.

Yes, No?????

Cheers, DonK

 

[Greenmtnboy]

I would think putting beeswax or any other seal on the nipple would cause it not to fire.

Yes, No?????

Cheers, DonK

yup you are right but we ar talking about putting grease over the loaded ball to lubercate the barrel as the gun is fired.
:wink:

 

[Rifleman1776]

My Ruger Old Army used to be my home personal defense gun. I cleaned completely, loaded, put a waxed wad over the powder and seated a bullet, not ball. I capped and left the hammer in one of the notches. It stayed that way for several years and fired readily when the time came. Do not try this with a fired gun that has burned bp residue.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

good post



I punch dry wads from 1/16th durofelt.
30gr 3F, a felt (snug fit - about .457) the Lee mold slug w/stiff wax/grease mix atop slug to seal the chamber.
I keep my '58 .44 and my ROA loaded for months and fires right off.
my .58 is the 'Buffalo' 12" bbl model. quite accurate. and yes the extral bbl length does seem to provide more 'grunt' then the std bbl models.

 

[msuspartan]

GMB,
I know that is what you were talking about but someone had mentioned sealing the nipple for humidity control, just thought that would NOT work.
(just cuz you live in da mountains chasing small furry critters with a smokepole, does not mean your an idiot!!!! :rotf: )(contrary to many city folk :blah: )

Great idea with the alcohol to clean first, super idea. :thumbsup:

Cheers, DonK