How to make a loading block?

[vthompson]

I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to make a loading block? I have a 50cal T/C Hawken Rifle and I use a 490 round ball.
1-What thickness should my wood be?
2-What size drill bit should I use for my holes?
3- Anything else that I may have forgot
Your help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[dodgecity]

Under the "articles, charts, links" part of the forum, there is a chart for drill bit sizes for drilling blocks for the various ball sizes. Also, if you scroll back to April 14, on this craftsman forum, you will find a good discussion with photos.

 

[mazo kid]

I like wood about 1/2" thick. After determining the size hole you want, use a Forstner bit (or a brad point bit), drill from both sides to avoid the ugly splintering out of the back-side of the wood. Good luck, they are easy to make. Show us your results.

 

Make the board as thick as the hole diameter.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/192279/

 

[zimmerstutzen]

I made one that self centers over the muzzle for easy loading. I used a piece 5/8 inch thick of hard maple, and marked the holed keeping them just over an inch apart. I then drilled a hole 1/8 inch deep with a one inch forstner bit and then switched to a half inch fortner to drill the rest of the way through. The one inch diameter depression fits just right over the muzzle of a 15/16 barrel and centers the patched ball in the board for pushing in with a ball starter.

I realize that the same thing can be done by seating the patched balls so deep that they protrude about an eighth inch out the bottom, It just takes a little extra finesse to seat them that way.

 

[CatchinZs]

I made one that self centers over the muzzle for easy loading. I used a piece 5/8 inch thick of hard maple, and marked the holed keeping them just over an inch apart. I then drilled a hole 1/8 inch deep with a one inch forstner bit and then switched to a half inch fortner to drill the rest of the way through. The one inch diameter depression fits just right over the muzzle of a 15/16 barrel and centers the patched ball in the board for pushing in with a ball starter.

I realize that the same thing can be done by seating the patched balls so deep that they protrude about an eighth inch out the bottom, It just takes a little extra finesse to seat them that way.

That's a good way to do it. I've also heard of people using and old mouse pad and laying it under the loading block so that they have a little give under the block as they load it and it allows the ball to slightly protude from the underside of the block.

 

[rabjr]

If you wade through the previous pages here at the craftsman forum, you'll see many threads on making ball blocks, some very unique. :thumbsup:

 

[Lostrifle]

The board I made for my .50 Traditions(go ahead and laugh; it shoots, and I haven't had any real trouble with it yet!) Penn rifle is 1/2 inch poplar, drilled with a 1/2 inch wood bit. When I load it up, I use the brass piece on my short starter to push the balls in. Leaves them sticking out the bottom of the board just enough to find the muzzle. :thumbsup:

 

[vthompson]

I want to thank everyone that responded to my question. Your information and input was helpful and appreciated. I will try to learn to post pictures and then I will show you how my project turned out.

 

[tnlonghunter]

Mine is for a .50, and I used 5/16" oak. I just traced and cut out the shape I wanted, sanded it with a spindle sander and palm sander, and then marked a drilled my holes. I like the thinner board so I can easily center the ball over the muzzle. Never had any trouble at all, so I don't really know why you would need thick wood.