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How to pick a plank for a gunstock?

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What are some important factors to consider when choosing a plank of hardwood to turn into a gunstock?

So far, I understand that it should have the grain in line with the stock shape and be between 2-3 inches wide.

I am planning on building a matchlock with it, so the prettiness of the wood grain doesn’t matter as much.
 
I think for curly maple a 1/4 sawn blank (grain perpendicular) shows the grain better and is more stable, but can be weak through the wrist. But since that is not a consideration, the strongest blanks are flat sawn (grain horizontal) but can be unstable.

If you have a wide enough plank, a good thing to do is cut out a paper tracing of the stock and move it around on the plank until you get the grain orientation through the wrist that you want, mark it, and then cut your stock blank.
 
I tried to cut a variety of stock blanks from cherry and walnut trees that fell in and around my land. I found the biggest problem are flaws, knots and bark inclusions in the wood. What looks great on the outside may be trash on the inside.

I found these in just about every blank I tried to cut out.

Grown over knot that came to the surface when I planed the blank.

walnut stock project 001.JPG


Bark inclusion, there were plenty of them in the log.

cherry blank butt knot.jpg

I don't know if you are cutting your own blank or buying one. I found buying one is the best choice if you have marginal wood that you are cutting.
 
I tried to cut a variety of stock blanks from cherry and walnut trees that fell in and around my land. I found the biggest problem are flaws, knots and bark inclusions in the wood. What looks great on the outside may be trash on the inside.

I found these in just about every blank I tried to cut out.

Grown over knot that came to the surface when I planed the blank.

View attachment 196650

Bark inclusion, there were plenty of them in the log.

View attachment 196651
That is good to know!

I am planning on going to a hardwood supplier. Would it be safe to assume it would be easier to tell on that wood, or is it still a surprise?
 
I have built ML's professionally for many years. When I get to a wood dealer, I start picking up blanks and set out the heavy ones, they are the dense ones. Then I'll check for grain direction in the wrist. The last thing I grade on is curl....depends on what I was going to build with it.
 
I have built ML's professionally for many years. When I get to a wood dealer, I start picking up blanks and set out the heavy ones, they are the dense ones. Then I'll check for grain direction in the wrist. The last thing I grade on is curl....depends on what I was going to build with it.
To clarify, you want the heavy ones and you want the grain in line with the stock?
 
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