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How to rifle the barrell

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Sarah

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Greetings, new here, new to ancient guns, and am very interested in the flintlock rifled long guns. Have been reading about how they work and are made. Got the lock and flint/frizzen mechanics down, and am very interested to know how technically the barrel is rifled from smooth to - ehr - rifled. How is it rerifled when needed. Is the rifling the same depth all through. Good depth/bad depth. Tightness of spiral. How does one see into the barrell to rifle it, etc.

I did a search and after 45 mins didn't find a previous discusiion, sorry.

thanks, if anyone cares to comment or give me links to a website discussing how the rifling is made.
 
This might help you.
[url] http://www.midiowa.com/toadhallrifleshop/rifling.htm[/url]
 
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Sarah said:
Greetings, new here, new to ancient guns, and am very interested in the flintlock rifled long guns. Have been reading about how they work and are made. Got the lock and flint/frizzen mechanics down, and am very interested to know how technically the barrel is rifled from smooth to - ehr - rifled. How is it rerifled when needed. Is the rifling the same depth all through. Good depth/bad depth. Tightness of spiral. How does one see into the barrell to rifle it, etc.

I did a search and after 45 mins didn't find a previous discusiion, sorry.

thanks, if anyone cares to comment or give me links to a website discussing how the rifling is made.

Hola Sarah .. and welcome to the board. You mite want to do a web search for a website for Guy Lautard, where he produced a video showing a gentleman named Bill Webb, who demonstrates the use of a boring and rifling machine he built. It is highly educational.

You can rent this dvd from Technical DVD Rental at the link below for a very reasonable price. I highly recommend it! :grin: Just look down the list of dvds and you will find it! It is named "Bill Web's Rifle Barrel Making Machine"
[url] http://technicalvideorental.com/rental_75.html[/url]

Davy
 
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Swampman ya beat me to it :blah: I was gonna suggest checking out Bookie's site. :thumbsup: He posts over on Muzzleloading Magazines "campfire" all the time. Real nice guy n a heck of a gunbuilder YMHS Birdman
 
Wow, that's great, guys, thanks for speedy replies! I'll check him out, and the video too. Cheers
 
If you check your local library, they may have a copy of FOXFIRE volume #5. It has first hand info on flintlock rifle building from the ground up (so to speak). Forging of parts (including lock and barrel), wood selectiion and shaping, constuction, even manufacture of Blackpowder.

Also Iron making, blacksmithing, bear hunting,etc.

Good series of books from real old timers (most who are sadly gone at this point).

Legion
 
Swampman, thanks for that site, "Book"I am enjoying it as I write but wanted to stop and tell you thanks. I have been looking for more information on the tennessee 'poor boy' southern gun, too, and here's a whole man's whole life dedicated to it. I understand now that rifle boring requires a machine of some kind. Didn't know if it was done by hand. He had pics of a rifled barrel and all. Anyway, Thanks again.
 
LOL, I forgot about the foxfire books! Of course, I will give that a go. Come to think of it, all kinds of things to read about again in those books...
 
Sarah said:
LOL, I forgot about the foxfire books! Of course, I will give that a go. Come to think of it, all kinds of things to read about again in those books...

Also check "Track of the Wolf" Website .. they carry a couple of books on rifling gun barrels in their gunsmith book section, including Bookouts edition as well. :grin:

Davy
 
Sarah: As your asking about Flintlocks I will describe the old method used with a black powder gun.
Each rifleing groove is cut, one at a time.
This is done with a cutter installed on a long rod which is pushed down the barrel. The cutting is done as the rod and cutter are retracted back out of the barrel.
As the rod and cutter are retracted out of the barrel, the rod (and cutter) is rotated creating the "twist".
There are several different methods of rotating the cutter but all of them are designed to keep the cutter rotated to exactly the same rotational place at any linier location in the barrel.
The rate of the rotation is also adjustable to give the desired rate of twist.

As the cutter cannot cut the groove to its full depth in one cut, it is raised slightly with each pass thru the bore. This may be done many times before the groove is finished.

After the groove is to the desired depth, the cutter rod and cutter is removed and indexed to the next grooves location and the process is started again.
Most of the old guns have an odd number of grooves. The main reason for this is the cutter blade needs to be supported to withstand the high pressure envolved in keeping the cutter at its desired cutting depth. If the number of grooves is odd, there is never a groove directly opposite the cutter.

The rate of twist or rotation is governed by the type of projectile the gun is going to shoot.
For round balls (the most commonly used), the rate of twist is usually rather slow.
Something in the range of one full turn every 4 to 7 feet.
For elongated bullets, the rate of twist must be faster to create the gyroscopic forces needed to stabilize them in flight. For black powder firearms, this is often as small as one turn in 18 inches. (in a modern small caliber rifle this may be as small as 2 turns per foot!).

The rate of twist us usually uniform throughout the barrels length however some barrels have a twist that starts off slowly at the breech and increases to a faster twist at the muzzle.

The depth of the rifleing also depends on the intended projectile.
Commonly the groove depth is uniform however in the evolution of firearms grooves of varying depths have been used.
Commonly the groove depth for a round ball is .008-.015. Some very old guns had grooves deeper than 1/16 of an inch and some black powder guns have grooves are only .003 deep (about one human hair thickness).

Modern methods of producing rifleing use methods from the original as outlined above, to pulling a multicutter broach thru the barrel (cuts all grooves at once in one pass), hammer forging where the barrel is radially pounded down around a grooved mandral and "button" rifleing where a grooved button is shoved down thru the bore. The spiral grooves in the button leave grooves in the barrel.

I hope this answers your questions.
Thanks for becoming a member. Stick around and read more about the fun to be found in actually shooting and building black powder guns.
If you are not interested in that right now, perhaps the enjoyment of re-enacting would be fun for you.

Jim (Zonie)
 
Sarah,

You might also want to check out
"GUNSMITH OF WILLIAMSBURG", as it has a section on the boring, reaming, and rifling of the barrel. I got my from the Log Cabin Sport Shop ([url] http://www.logcabinonline.com/[/url] ) here is there item number and price Item # 8626260 Price: US$ 27.95

Scott
 
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Zonie Jim, I thank you for that explaination. I did want to know just those basic mechanics, and I have only come to this interest very recently, don't know why, but having discovered these flintlocks and their place in history, for some reason not just owning or shooting one, but building one (or how it is built) fits in easily with my personal sense of self.

Have no contacts with reinacting, although if I was in with a bunch of folks who did I'd be right there too.

Never shot a gun (well, a few times) but a flintlock long gun is in my future. Might be nice to find an old one and rehab it for use. We'll see. I so enjoy reading everyone's posts and passions and skills learned just by trying something new and finding so much enjoyment beyond just the guns, but in the blacksmithing and carpentry and in the meaning and use of the guns.

Well, thanks again, and I will be around hopefully keeping my mouth shut and learning.

Later,

S
 
Pitgame, that sounds like an excellent book to buy. As I delve into these guns, I want to learn the history of the men who were making them and how and why they made their living that way.

Thanks.
 
Davy, I have checked out that excellent site and have it in my list of saves for when I buy some books. Thanks for the confirmation.
 
Sarah said:
Davy, I have checked out that excellent site and have it in my list of saves for when I buy some books. Thanks for the confirmation.


Well there are plenty of re-enactors on this site Sarah, iffin ya have a yearnin to participate with some of them, find some on this site in your area and Private Message them to get the details.

Most here are nice folks, and more than willing to lend a hand! :grin: There is alot to learn here for all of us I think .. so give us your two cents worth as well! Me ... I am a lifetime student, and no end in site!

Good luck! :thumbsup:

Davy
 
Sarah: Glad to have you stay around and there is no need to keep your mouth shut.

Questions like yours gives us the opportunity to share our knowledge with others.
Besides, over the years I've found that even the simple questions are the same questions others would like to ask but never do. Whether this is because they don't want to stand out in the crowd or they don't want to be thought of as unknowing I don't know but sometimes their silence is deafening.

As for your interest in Flintlocks, good for you!
I would say the idea of buying an original to shoot may not be the best idea though.
Original Flintlocks are very expensive and often, even though they look perfectly safe, are dangerous to try to shoot. 150 + years of internal corrosion can weaken them and cannot be determined without special testing and disassemsmbly.
A better idea might be to buy a modern recreation of known worth. The initial investment would be far less and the ability to recoup your money, should you decide to sell it would be much easier.

Because of the equipment and knowledge requred to successfully shoot a Flintlock, perhaps you could find someone in your area who would be willing to let you shoot their gun and personally show you the proper proceedures required for loading and priming their gun.

Many areas in the U.S.A. have muzzleloading clubs which hold monthly shoots and these people will be more than glad to help you.
I can say this because, even though I don't know every muzzleloader in the country, a more helpful and frendly lot of people cannot be found anywhere.

Be advised though, once you've lined up the sights on the target, squeezed the trigger and heard the "click-foofBOOM" and peer thru the smoke haze to see a nice hole in the target right where you were aiming, it will be very difficult to resist reloading and doing it again. :)
This sport is very addictive. :) :)
 

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