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How you fill your pan makes no difference ...

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A lot of clubs will not let you prime until on the firing line during a match so a separate method of priming is usually used with the main horn left on the bench.

Woods walk, different story.
 
I am no expert but I have been shooting and hunting with flintlocks for over 50 years.
I prime with whatever i am using for the main charge, 2 Fg / 3 Fg,
I use a cows knee to cover the lock in bad weather, ie rain/snow.
I never use 4 Fg as it is not graphite coated and quickly turns to soup from moisture in the air.
I never cover the touch hole with prime powder.
This has worked for me for many years.

I only use 4f powder to prime my Dueling Pistols when Lawyers present me with one of their exhorbitant accounts for some minor service; the 4f powder seems to work really well although I've never had to touch it off......up until now.
 
4f primer here using a plunger type dispenser throws a line not to big, use this on all my flinters never had a problem, From .62 to .32 cals. Thinking hard on a Kibler when I get back from a Wyoming hunt, even though I am a left-handed shooter, looks like Jim will never offer a left-handed gun, will just have to bite the bullet. The sirens are singing to me. But I heard where there may be a Hawken being thought about in the future, now one of those say in .54 or .58 percussion. would be nice.

Left hander here too, we're thinking about forming a Roof Rocking group in order to visit Jim Kiblers place regularly, and heave Rocks on his House roof until he does declare a LH Woods Runner FL Kit, why not join us ?
 
I usually put a few drops of the blood of a chicken sacrificed by a Bantu medicine man by the light of a full moon in the pan BEFORE priming it. Guaranteed results.

I can't believe you overlook wearing a string of Virgin Goats Eye Brows around your Neck before firing....
 
Hey , what ever works for you bud ....but ive heard people say the goofiest thing about how they prime their pans , some weird ritual . If it works for them , cool ! Knock yourself out but if the guns ignition is slow, delayed , doesnt go off half the time ....there is something wrong ....quit living with it . And ....do people really think their priming is not going to move in the pan if they are out hunting ? Very strange to think someone would believe that ....

Just like cleaning our guns, some people think there is some magic trick to it. Guess some like to go through life the hard way.
 
Well said . Perfect example you give , cleaning of muzxleloaders ....Cleaned my gun yesterday . Took 7 minutes.... Oh well , lead that horse to water BUT ......
You must keep in mind, most people don't clean their smokeless guns after they shoot them. So, I guess having to do so with black powder seems like a lot of work even though it isn't.
 
A lot of clubs will not let you prime until on the firing line during a match so a separate method of priming is usually used with the main horn left on the bench.

Woods walk, different story.
" a lot of clubs?" I would walk away from any club that did not have that rule. Yes, a separate primer thingy must be used. Mine is kept in my back pocket.
 
Left hander here too, we're thinking about forming a Roof Rocking group in order to visit Jim Kiblers place regularly, and heave Rocks on his House roof until he does declare a LH Woods Runner FL Kit, why not join us ?

I'll join up one one condition: each rock has to be wrapped in a $100 bill.
 
Is there a good lock tuning video out there somewhere? I've got an L&R that doesn't seem to spark well like some locks do. I hear about guys getting 50 shots from a flint or hardly knapping a flint at all and still get good spark.
 
Yes ! and more is less . You have to prime each firearm VERY carefully and each flintlock has its own ritual . If you part the prime down the middle it will work so much better . Use a pin or very thin stick , perhaps a tooth pick . Sometimes two mounds in the middle of an elongated pan is very good too .
 
I have found that after priming I need to turn clockwise to face the target. This way the Coriolis effect distributes the powder in the correct orientation. Turning the other direction it won't fire half the time.

Don
Exactly !! But only with American made flintlocks ! With Italian guns you must turn counter clockwise ....
 
If you have to do some sortta voodoo for your flintlock to go off

A British warrant pan charger circa 1750s.
Found this one in a bin at Dixie Gun Works in the 90s.

It lays a bead of 4f .055 drams right across the pan.
 

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I hear so many times you have to fill the pan , half way , push the powder away , or sometimes , toward the pan , use 4 F , dont put too much in , part it down the middle , make a void near the T.H. etc. etc. this or that .... You should be able to just dump powder in the pan and close the frizzen thats it . If you over fill it too much and the frizzen wont close , sure , knock some out so it'll close completely but thats it . If you have to do some sortta voodoo for your flintlock to go off or if you aren't getting fast ignition ....something is wrong with your lock , your Touch hole , or both .
Your experience with your gun is your experience, with your gun.

Mine is that Yes, it does make a difference.
 

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