hunting or possibles bag--patterns?

[NJStricker]

Cool! I don't think our store had those, though I know I didn't see everything. Those would make great inlays into a stag crown on a knife handle as well.

No kidding these hobbies are expensive! At least with knives I can sell one once in a while when I need more money for supplies.

 

[wayne1967]

I am working on a second one because after I turned the first one right side out, it was a little too small.

 

[NJStricker]

Looking at the pattern for that fowler bag, I can see how that could be. By the time you put anything in there of any size the front and back start wrapping around and so your 8 inch wide bag is now 5 or 6. When I attempt that pattern I may add a 2 inch gusset between the front and back to give it some depth for larger objects without making the entire bag wider.

 

[NJStricker]

OK, more questions.

About liners. I'm guessing on an Eastern hunter style bag, or fowler bag, that liners were more prevalent. Closer to civilization, more individuals closer to commerce and wealth, so they had nicer gear. What kind of materials would have been used to line the bag? Some type of linen material? Would it have been sewn into the bag, or would it be buttoned and removable, like I've seen on some saddle bags?

I assume that as you moved farther west and farther from civilization, the more primitive the bags--self-tanned hides, rawhide, and probably no liners (why use precious material that could be put to another use, right?). Am I on track here?

 

[BrownBear]

From all I've been able to read, I'm drawing the same rough conclusions.

Gotta add though, that with my practical nature it boils down to the leather. I don't like loose liners cuzz they can get wadded up with load shifts, and I don't bother with liners on heavier leather. They come into their own for stiffening thin soft leather. I glue them right to the back of the leather before I sew. I've used pillow ticking, 1.5-2 oz chap leather, pig leather, and even simply doubled up my bag leather. That's all dependent on what I have on hand when I build and what toots my whistle at the moment. I like a bag that's just stiff enough so the bag is open at the mouth when I lift the flap.

 

[rabjr]

Yep what Brownbear said.

I've used pillow ticking, cotton Duck works too. Glue it to the leather with a thin layer of a good contact cement. I like Barge. Holds it just fine. :thumbsup:

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

Another source for canvas would be an art supply store. Some people like to stretch their own canvas for painting, and is a lot cheaper in the long run as opposed to buying the pre-stretched or the canvas covered cardboard. A good art store would have the canvas in a couple of different weights. Might give it a thought. :hmm:

 

[NJStricker]

I use Barge cement for gluing the welt of my knife sheaths before I stitch them up.

When you guys lay out your pattern, like the fowler pattern for instance, do you use the pattern as is, or do you add an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch to account for stitching once the bag is turned right-side out?

 

[BrownBear]

Good question. I used the pattern as-is the first time around, but as you point out, it got even smaller once I sewed and turned it. And I had my stitches inset only 1/4" from the edge. While I find the original handy, I made the pattern for my "stretched" version 2" wider. The size of the original is not such an issue with a gusset or weft added, but I'm happier with the larger version.

On the previous topic of liners, I've been using Barge too, my favorite rubber cement for the last 40 years even if it is getting harder to find.

I have talked to a couple of leatherworkers now who report delight with the waterbased cements recently available from Tandy (there are two of them, and I don't recall which they were talking about, if not both). They say it works as well as Barge without all the smell, plus it can be shipped without hazmat issues.

Oh heck. Long as I'm stretching this back to points about liners, I'll toss this in: I have the best luck with liners if I go to a little extra time and trouble. I follow normal instructions to let both the leather and the liner dry to the touch before joining them, but following that, I run a rolling pin with fair pressure over the joined pair to really force the bond. Following that, I let it set overnight before flexing. I've never had any separation after doing both, but I have had the liner bubble up here and there along any folds if I didn't. Just an FYI, and maybe not an issue with anyone more patient than I am.

 

[rabjr]

I make my own patterns and all that is figured in, so they are used as is.

 

[NJStricker]

Hi guys,

I haven't been around in a while since I've been so busy, but just thought I'd leave an update. I picked up some canvas material finally, a welding blanket from Harbor Freight. 5x5 for $18, but it was the only place locally that had anything in the way of canvas that wasn't too thin. It's thicker than any Carhartt duck, which is what I wanted for my first bag. I'll save the leather I have for later. I looked at their canvas tarps also, but they had a thick waterproofing layer that just wouldn't look right. The canvas blanket I bought is a beige/sage color. For now I will leave it as is, but next fall may pick up some walnuts to make a dye. Anyway, one of these days I'll get around to transferring the pattern and getting started.

Thanks again to everyone that was willing to help this greenhorn!

 

[Bullmoose]

Harber freight also makes a AWESOME solid canvas bag with handles. I has pockets on the sides it make a great personal tote, to the shower house if you want to stay PC all the way to the tolet and shower. i have one with all my fire starting goods in it. it's a good trades toter too. $10