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Hydrgen Peroxide?

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hanshi said:
I highly recommend dihydrogen oxide.
:shocked2: That stuff is dangerous!!
If you get a lung full of that stuff it'll kill ya!
Every Human that's ever drank that stuff has died!
 
I don't think there is any question about Hydrogen Peroxide being an oxidizer, even in a 3% solution.

Hydrogen Peroxide is also a neat pair of words when used together.
It sounds real scientific so it must do something !
In fact, in it's pure form at 100 percent Hydrogen Peroxide it was used in the rocket engine on the WW II German ME163 Komet. :shocked2:

It can also bleach your hair if your into that sort of thing.

It also costs more than plain water so that alone should be good. :)

As for really doing anything to help clean a muzzleloader I think it should work just as good as plain old water and allow you to tell your friends,
"Yup. I cleaned her with some genuine Hydrogen Peroxide. That's Goooooood stuff, I says." :grin:
 
I think I answered my own question. I found this link on the Marlin Owners Forum where they report that Murphy's Oil Soap will ruin the finish on a gun stock with just one application. Several posts claim their guns were ruined after using it just once. So I guess Colorado Clyde was 100% right again.
Thanks Clyde, but I'd still like to know what soap you recommend.

"http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/marlin-collectors/50780-murphy-s-oil-soap.html"
 
Crewdawg445 said:
+1, powerful or not it's still an oxidizer and has no place in my rifle bores. To each his own, but I'll stick with ballistol and water! :hatsoff:
What ratio of water and ballistol do you use for cleaning?I,ve been told about half and half.Do you also add Dawn with it?Do you use Ballistol as your storage protection as well?
 
good ole boy said:
Crewdawg445 said:
+1, powerful or not it's still an oxidizer and has no place in my rifle bores. To each his own, but I'll stick with ballistol and water! :hatsoff:
What ratio of water and ballistol do you use for cleaning?I,ve been told about half and half.Do you also add Dawn with it?Do you use Ballistol as your storage protection as well?

Around here it is used with Murphy's Oil Soap, dentured alcohol, two parts of each to two parts of peroxide. It will usually clean a gun with one application. If you thoroughly dry the bore after cleaning - hold the gun muzzle down and use lots of dry patches - followed by a thorough oiling then there is no rust. None of the guns I have used this on have any rust in the breech. Of course none of my guns are cheap products with poorly fitted breech plugs. This is 25 plus years of experience speaking.
 
Well I think I'm the only one here that has use Hydrogen Peroxide to clean a barrel. Purchase a use rifle and had a problem with it fouling.After cleaning it a number of times replacing nipples nothing work. My buddy suggested using HP.Took the barrel sealed to nipple and poured the stuff down the barrel. After five minutes I poured the HP out then clean with soap and hot water. Will After that I never had a problem with that rifle fouling on me never.It work for me, Also had a club member having the same problem and we give his barrel the same works. Problem solved.This may not be the best stuff to use but it work for me and a buddy six year later still shooting that old 45 cal and it has never foul once.
 
LongrifleDoc said:
I think I answered my own question. I found this link on the Marlin Owners Forum where they report that Murphy's Oil Soap will ruin the finish on a gun stock with just one application. Several posts claim their guns were ruined after using it just once. So I guess Colorado Clyde was 100% right again.
Thanks Clyde, but I'd still like to know what soap you recommend.

"http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/marlin-collectors/50780-murphy-s-oil-soap.html"
for the moose milk stuff---murphy's
Murphy's or dawn, for the water method sometime I use a commercial soap that has a neutral PH. You want your final PH of your cleaning solution to be as close to neutral as possible without being acidic a mild base is ok because bp residue has a low Ph so some buffering will occur.

Keep in mind that what works for one guy might not produce the same results for someone in another state.
Also I never soap wood on purpose.
 
Stumpkiller said:
Have you considered the enviroment in the barrel after firing with the nitric salts and acids that should be neutralized?

Yes!?

The murphy's will buffer as will the water I use it has a high buffering capacity.....your water may not. I thought that was made obvious :idunno:
Was there something more specific?
 
I should add that with the 70% isopropyl alcohol, I can do a complete cleaning and oiling job on any of my flintlocks in about 10 minutes using no more than 3 or 4 patches.
 
You guys are merciless.

Start off with off the shelf dishwasher and warm water. If you are satisfied, stop. If not, get your chemistry hat on. A little air jet keyboard spray and some patient re-oiling and cleaning will help you stay in love with your gun

IN the meantime, Stumpy and Zonie, you'd be doing me a huge favor if you sent me a personal post with JPG pictures of your Signature spot Rifles in them.

Sometimes they are the best part of the post
 
I guess I am in the camp with the hot soapy water folks. Been using it since 1967 and it has always given me good service as a BP cleaning agent. See no need for anything else.
 
Tex said:
I guess I am in the camp with the hot soapy water folks. Been using it since 1967 and it has always given me good service as a BP cleaning agent. See no need for anything else.

I used hot soapy water for years before trying the oil soap, alcohol & peroxide mix. Greg, that is not chemistry by the way because it is a mixture not a compound. The key, as I said above, is getting all the water out of the bore after cleaning. That is true no matter what method you use. When I used soap and water I still got some rust and had to re-oil the bore two or three days after my shooting session, if I was putting the gun away for awhile. The point is that peroxide, as we buy it at the drug store is a very dilute solution and as one/third of the mixture becomes even more diluted. The oxygen released when it is used helps remove the fouling quickly and thoroughly. I have seen zero evidence of damage to the bore or breech plug in the years I have used it. There was an article quite a few years back in Muzzleblasts about using this method. It was an experiment to determine whether or not the use of this type of solution caused undue corrosion and the answer was it did not. I like it because of the quick cleanup but as has been said, it may not work for everyone but it sure has for me.
 
I've been using it for just about everything and it does an amazing job. I'll look on the bottle for the mixing ratios when I get home this evening. There's a chart on the side that gives recommendations and I find it to be accurate. For cleaning, moose milk and protection purposes.
 
I've been using the following for several years:

1/3 peroxide 1/3 alcohol 1/3 Burch/Casey No. 77

Takes only 2 -3 patches.
Dry
2 patches w/ 90% alcohol
Dry
Oil w/ Brur-Casey Barricade
 
That stuff is dangerous!!
If you get a lung full of that stuff it'll kill ya!
Every Human that's ever drank that stuff has died!

You are not supposed to drink it, it is meant to fry your fresh meat in it.
 
hanshi said:
Never will I understand the weird things folks come up with for a simple gun cleaning. Instead of hydrogen peroxide, I highly recommend dihydrogen oxide.

Instead of using dihydrogen oxide ......try using dihydrogen dioxide it works even better.
 
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