I am looking for help on maintaining metal finishing on ML's.

[splinter84]

Sorry if this is a repeat question, but I did some thorough searching and failed to find a good answer to my question.

It appears cold bluing, cold browning, or acid etch (vinegar, naval jelly etc) appear to be the most popular DIY solution to finishing the hardware and barrel on most ML kits that guys/gals finish at home. I have been trying to understand more on how these solutions protect the hardware/barrel. Neither are a rust preventative correct?

Of the three choices, I went with a vinegar/acid etch finish for my first GPR build. It soaked my pieces for four hours in vinegar and then soaked them in tranny oil for a week until I needed them for assembly. What kind of protection do I need to apply to the hardware to keep it from flash rusting and ensure it maintains the grey color I am after? I understand that the acid etch leaves a grey patina that continues to darken over time due to oxidation etc. This is the type of look I am hoping for over the long run. As far as treatment goes,do I treat the vinegar etch solution the same as a blued rifle? I typically rub my blued rifles down with a little rubbing alcohol to remove grease etc, and then use some hoppes hoppes oil on a rag and then finish with a silicone cloth after every hunt. I have never had any problem with flash rust or pitting etc. If I treat my finished GPR the same way, will the vinegar/etch treatment maintain its grey patina look? This method of treating the hardware is new to me. I just want to understand how to maintain it properly.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[ihuntsnook]

I prefer a coarse brown finish on a muzzleloader. I'm not sure I would call it a rust preventative, but what it does is soak up the oil and hold it. I've had good results with Laurel Mountain Forge's cold brown.

 

[jdkerstetter]

It appears cold bluing, cold browning, or acid etch....I have been trying to understand more on how these solutions protect the hardware/barrel. Neither are a rust preventative correct?

Rust browning using the traditional acid methods forms a very good corrosion barrier if done and maintained correctly. Cold blue and french gray do not.

Think of the old iron plows and other implements sitting on farms all over the place, they rust to a point but then can sit there for decades with no other protection. The scale protects further degragation, or at least slows it.

What kind of protection do I need to apply to the hardware to keep it from flash rusting and ensure it maintains the grey color I am after?....

Apply a good preservative wax. It doesn't have to be expensive, even automotive waxes will preserve metal.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[splinter84]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I will be sure to wax the hardware. I am going to try the vinegar etch for a while and see how I like. I figure I can always rust brown the pieces later down the road.

 

[bpd303]

I have always used Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. It is used with heat which isn't hard to do and gives a pleasing long lasting finish.