I made some more bullets.

[Idaho Ron]

I poured some more bullets. This time I added some harder lead to the mix. I went with 5 pounds of pure and 2 pounds of lead chilled shot.
I first went with 2.5 pounds of pure and 2 pounds of shot. I didn't like the first ones I saw. Some "broke" and the lead looked like,,,the inside of cast iron. Does that make sense? I thought they might be a bit too hard, or too hot. I went with more pure and they started to look good again. I stuck with 5 pounds of pure and 2 pounds of shot.

I measured the bullets and the LEE bullets are bigger this time. They measure .5168 and they are listed as .517 Last time they measured .515
The Lyman is .505 again like last time.
Last time the Lee mould threw Mostly 325 gr bullets. This time they were almost all 324 gr.
So they were a little bigger and a little lighter.
The lyman mostle threw 398 last time and this time it was about even 394, 395,396, and 397. I threw out all the bad ones right off the bat and only kept the good ones. These are good looking but I don't think the lymans are going to do well because they are just not big enough. I wished the mould would throw .509.
I might need to contact Lyman. I am going to try to get out tomorrow to try a few out. Ron

 

[Mad Professor]

ID Ron,

Just some thoughts here. How do the hornadays that shoot so well mike out compared to those you cast?

Also are the cast slugs tapered from the base like the hornadays to ease loading? If not there may be an issue with starting them square to the bore when loading.

For conicals I made a combination T-handle for my ramrod and short starter out of a peice of round hardwood tool handle:

Cut a 5 inch piece of handle and drill the middle to accept a screw to fit the ramrod (10-32 I think). Countersink the hole on both sides then thread a screw/washer into it and a washer/lock/nut on the other side. T-handle is done.

For conical short starter take a 1/2 drill (50 cal) and bore a hole as deep as the nose of your bullet on one end, leave the other flat and chamfer the edges of the ends.

Use the end with the counter sunk hole to start the bullet then the flat end to get them flush with the muzzle, the ramrod/jag will do the rest.


One last thought. I know you want to cast plinking (non-hunting) rounds that you don't have to fuss with but if the bullets are undersize a paper patch may help.

Good luck and keep us updated on the results.

P.S. don't forget to try a group with a less than max charge

 

[Idaho Ron]

The Hornady great plains bullet is tappered. the first ring is under .500 and the top ring is .511
The Hornady is also Swaged not poured.
The bullets I am doing are also tappered.
The lee bullet is the best bet so far. It has a top ring that measures .516 or so the lyman is at .505 or less on the top ring.
You know I am tempted to try a paper patch. I will have to look into how to do it. Have you ever tried it? It would seem that it would be the way to go on a oversized bore. Ron

 

[paulvallandigham]

idahoRon: Dixie gun works sells the papers and a kit to make your own paper cartriges. You can use the same paper to paper patch bullets. Or you can go to your local tobacco shop and simply buy cigarette paper. Mike the paper you use, and determine how many wraps you will need to turn around your bullet to fill the gap in your barrel. Allow for only about .001" expansion of a plain based bullet. 003" for a hollow based bullet. Wrap and glue the paper around the bullet, on the flat side, and below or behind the ogive, then fold the excell paper after twisting it to help hold it together, onto the bottom fo the bullet. Some use the paper dry. Other use a liquid lube. You might try using the paper dry, but run a lubed cleaning patch down the barrel after seating the bullet on the powder. Most conicals will shoot better if you protect the base of the bullet from being melted by the heat from the burning powder, so consider using an overpowder card wad, or some kind of filler over the powder to provide that protection. that will also protect the paper from catching on fire, a concern when you are hunting or shooting in a dry " fire zone " area. The rifling should cut the paper so that it shreds and leaves the bullet shortly after exiting the muzzle. You don't need to fill the grooves with grease if you paper patch, as the paper prevents the lead from coming into contact with the barrel.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

I can't speak from experience but from posts here and info from Lee the REAL slug should be pure lead. I've been interested in this slug and buying a mold for awhile. there is nothing to be gained from using a harder alloy at the velocitys BP rifles produce.

 

[Mad Professor]

Here is a good link for paper patching:

http://www.members.shaw.ca/bobschewe/