I might be able to use Teflon patches in an experiment...

[roundball]

But...it can only have teflon on one side...must have plain cloth on the other side.

While this advertisement doesn't specifically say so, when I read the first couple paragraphs I come away with the understanding that the teflon is only on one side of the material.

Does anyone have any first hand knowledge about teflon patch material?
a.k.a. where's rabbit03 when ya need him !!
http://www.theminute-men.com/contactus.htm

 

[paulvallandigham]

Both Rabbot 03, and John Hinnant have indicated in past posts that the teflon patching they buy from a lady there in Texas is coated only on one side. Go for it. :thumbsup:

 

[silverfox]

Thats right. All the teflon patching material I have seen was only coated on one side. The side next to the barrel.
Good Luck Fox :thumbsup:

 

[GreyWhiskers]

Rabbit03 gave me the following contact info -
Hill Country Creations
2880 Mail Route Road
Fischer, TX 78623
830-935-2801
[email protected]

Good people to deal with and the teflon is only on one side.

 

[arquebus]

The teflon patching material I bought was from The Minute Men/Jerry's Archery in Ohio. The teflon coating is green & sprayed onto one side of the cloth.

 

[roundball]

Thanks a lot gang !
:hatsoff:

 

[BrownBear]

The talk of teflon and most recently the mention of it being "sprayed on one side" makes me wonder about something......

You can buy a moly coating material for coating bullets in the cartridge world. I wonder if that wouldn't be comparably effective to teflon, yet available for self-application on a variety of patch thicknesses and materials. I can't imagine it being more expensive!!

Here is one version and they say this about it: "Extreme testing indicates that impregnating your bullets with Molybdenum Disulfide can provide, better accuracy, higher terminal velocity and less bore cleaning.

This one doesn't contain moly and might be a stretch to use on fabric patches, but the reference to paper patching caught my eye.

I still can't get away from simply applying any paste type lube to the outside of your patch right at the muzzle. That's what I've been doing lately with my own home-built lube. It's not a hassle at all, but it will sure teach you what's "sharp" in knives. It just seems like it would be an easy way to do small tests of lubes you probably already have on hand.

 

[longcruise]

The suppository shooters have found the moly coating to leave a layer of moly in the barrel that builds upover time. Wonder if it would do the same on our ml barrels?

 

[BrownBear]

The suppository shooters have found the moly coating to leave a layer of moly in the barrel that builds upover time. Wonder if it would do the same on our ml barrels?

I'm not tossing static, but I hear the same thing about teflon and lots of talk about getting teflon out of bores. Same-same in my mind. That's why I'm interested in simply applying traditional paste lubes to one side of a patch at the bore.

 

[roundball]

"...seems like it would be an easy way to do small tests of lubes you probably already have on hand..."

Well, I'm not actually testing lubes...I'm testing a lead alternative ball that is darn near one hole accurate at 25yds but gives a couple wild fliers at 50yds.

Because all the normal things have already been eliminated like patch thicknesses, various lubes, different powder charges, etc...a conclusion was offered that the patch may simply not be gripping the smooth slippery surface of this alternative material ball, therefore not imparting enough spin to stabilize it enough for 50yds distance.

Then a suggestion was made to pour out a quantity of balls on a flat surface, and using one of the very mild aerosol craft adhesives, just very lightly spray some out over the top of the balls and let it settle down on them, drying to a mild tacky finish...theoretically allowing a patch to get more purchase on the slippery ball.

But I figured a lubed patch wouldn't grab the tacky surface anyway so I was asking about teflon, to see if one side of that material would just be plain dry cloth material...no lube to worry about and a dry surface to grab the ball...

 

[Little Wattsy]

The talk of teflon and most recently the mention of it being "sprayed on one side" makes me wonder about something......

You can buy a moly coating material for coating bullets in the cartridge world. I wonder if that wouldn't be comparably effective to teflon, yet available for self-application on a variety of patch thicknesses and materials. I can't imagine it being more expensive!!

Here is one version and they say this about it: "Extreme testing indicates that impregnating your bullets with Molybdenum Disulfide can provide, better accuracy, higher terminal velocity and less bore cleaning.

This one doesn't contain moly and might be a stretch to use on fabric patches, but the reference to paper patching caught my eye.

I still can't get away from simply applying any paste type lube to the outside of your patch right at the muzzle. That's what I've been doing lately with my own home-built lube. It's not a hassle at all, but it will sure teach you what's "sharp" in knives. It just seems like it would be an easy way to do small tests of lubes you probably already have on hand.

In looking for a "better conical" I found Hydra-Con by Parker Productions outta Idaho http://www.arrowholder.net/ One of their claims to fame was the molly coating of thier all lead conicals. Got and shot a few; Was VERY impressed. Not so much a commercial as a hands on appreciation of molly coating in THAT context.

 

[BrownBear]

Then a suggestion was made to pour out a quantity of balls on a flat surface, and using one of the very mild aerosol craft adhesives, just very lightly spray some out over the top of the balls and let it settle down on them, drying to a mild tacky finish...theoretically allowing a patch to get more purchase on the slippery ball.

But I figured a lubed patch wouldn't grab the tacky surface anyway so I was asking about teflon, to see if one side of that material would just be plain dry cloth material...no lube to worry about and a dry surface to grab the ball...

I'm the guilty party on suggesting the spray to make the marbles not so slick.

I agree that I'd be concerned about patches saturated by lube, but what I'm saying is, if you apply a little paste-type lube to one side of the patch rather than saturating them with a liquid, you could probably use about any lube and patch combo rather than tracking down and buying teflon. That would be quick and easy cutting at the muzzle, but you could also just smear some lube on one side of a precut.

 

[silverfox]

Roundball I know and have watched people shoot with the teflon patches for 15 years and they have never said anything about buildup in the barrel. They do the wetpatch drypatch after each shot. Then a light spray of water or alcohal (light) before loading the ball. Always been hard shooters to beat. Then normal cleanup when they were done for the day. Nothing unusual.
Good luck on your experiment and let us know.
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[roundball]

Then a suggestion was made to pour out a quantity of balls on a flat surface, and using one of the very mild aerosol craft adhesives, just very lightly spray some out over the top of the balls and let it settle down on them, drying to a mild tacky finish...theoretically allowing a patch to get more purchase on the slippery ball.

But I figured a lubed patch wouldn't grab the tacky surface anyway so I was asking about teflon, to see if one side of that material would just be plain dry cloth material...no lube to worry about and a dry surface to grab the ball...

I'm the guilty party on suggesting the spray to make the marbles not so slick.

I agree that I'd be concerned about patches saturated by lube, but what I'm saying is, if you apply a little paste-type lube to one side of the patch rather than saturating them with a liquid, you could probably use about any lube and patch combo rather than tracking down and buying teflon. That would be quick and easy cutting at the muzzle, but you could also just smear some lube on one side of a precut.

Ahhhhh...the guilty party, got it!

Well, with Teflon patching being so expensive your idea might be worth a try...I could clean out a shoe polish can or a #11 cap can and melt it full of NL1000...wipe a dry patch across the surface.

I'd also thought that since I occasionaly use 2.5" lubing patches saturated with NL1000, I could super saturate a few of those and just wipe the bore down & up with one before every shot...and just use 100% dry patches altogether with the smooth slippery balls.

I still have this nagging feeling however, that this particular 50yd experiment sounds a lot like a rube goldberg deal than a controlled experiment...not sure what consistency I'll be able to expect with the spray, etc.

Range is closed so I can't experiment this weekend....darn...guess I'll just have to settle for having my Wife of 41 years pull a round of skeet for me with the .28ga Flint smoothbore
:grin:

 

[brubincam]

-----would there be a material sutch as sand that would rough up marbles in a vibrater-----

 

[rabjr]

Yeah, I would think there must be a way to "frost" those marbles some how. Just enough to give them a rough finish.

 

[roundball]

-----would there be a material sutch as sand that would rough up marbles in a vibrater-----

Good idea...easy enough to try with the Dillon case cleaner/tumbler I have...could get a bag of sand or maybe better yet, a bag of those tiny crushed stones used in the bottom of an aquarium...would know if it was going to work in just a couple minutes

 

[roundball]

Yeah, I would think there must be a way to "frost" those marbles some how. Just enough to give them a rough finish.

If the tumbler doesn't work, I wonder if just pouring a hundred out on a carpeted workbench and laying a flat piece of sandpaper on top of thenm and hjust roill them around for a while

 

[BrownBear]

How about etching? Which acid is it they use to etch glass?

 

[CrackerJim]

Hydroflouric acid. Not sure how easy to get and if I'm not mistaken, it has some handling concerns.

Jim