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If you were to make a list of supplies for a 1st x ML owner what would it be?

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At nearly 67 getting into ML for hunting whitetail in WV. Never owned one until 10 min ago when I purchased a Deerstalker 50cal percussion. Based on this, what would be on a list of supplies (mfg, type, etc) for loads, tools, cleaning, etc?

I was intimidated to ask this question in this group, but this is why I came here to learn. Thank you for your patience & information.

I
 
Never be intimidated here, There's always Someone willing too help.

First thing to do is get a Track of the Wolf Catalog, that way you have several choices of the many items available( All are not required )

All you really need is to be able to load and clean & prevent rusting.

I'll look for a pic of my bags contents and post it.

Welcome , Enjoy the Ride!

Dixie Gun Works is another great Catalog to have....
 
Welcome, for starts there is ALLOT you don't need... Things you do buy, quality gear is a must or make it yourself which I prefer to do before buying anything.

Bag, horn, measure (to play with loads until you can make chargers), turnscrew, tow and tow worm, ball puller, bear or mink grease/ tallow and that's it... Obviously powder along with shot/ balls.

I'm a historically accurate guy so your needs may be different, but the more "modern equipment" list is similar. Keep in mind you need not overcomplicate things in terms of traditional black powder, many do.
 
31960-E4-B-62-B4-4-BBB-9-C2-B-70045-D01016-D.jpg


Here's what I carry , most of the time...

As I stated above all items are not required, But if you don't have a particular item then there's no
way you will know if you'll need it or not.......LOL

You might want a box, if your planning on more than one smoke pole.

Warning! Using Black Powder may become additive!

IMG-3193.png
 
Practice Practice Practice - The deer stalker has a 1-48 twist when I owned mine I used 490 round ball and 15 thousandth pillow tick patch and 3f black powder. Mine was flint but cleaning is the same and that is what you need to make sure is done after shooting. a lot of discussion on here so just look through the old topics. Oh by the way this probably won't be you only muzzle loader I have 5 and look for another
:D
also check loyalist Dave's videos on you tube. He is a member here and can give you a lot of info on muzzle loaders. Good Luck.
 
At nearly 67 getting into ML for hunting whitetail in WV. Never owned one until 10 min ago when I purchased a Deerstalker 50cal percussion. Based on this, what would be on a list of supplies (mfg, type, etc) for loads, tools, cleaning, etc?

I was intimidated to ask this question in this group, but this is why I came here to learn. Thank you for your patience & information.

I understand the intimidation factor. As a matter of fact I'm am so accomplished a flintlock shooter that I am capable of missing any and perhaps every target at the shooting range, at any distance from me.

:oops:

But seriously, remember that hunting or shooting a muzzleloader is similar to the same with a modern rifle and similar to golf.., when discussing gadgets. There is always the newest, coolest thing to hit the market that you MUST buy or forget every becoming successful at hunting or shooting....., :confused: Of course this is balderdash, as the tech is centuries old, when plastic was not invented....

So with that in mind...,

Most folks get some sort of container with a shoulder strap to carry:
You will need something in which to carry powder,
Something to measure out the powder charge for the rifle or gun,
Some basic hand tools to remove the lock for cleaning,
A couple of basic tools for loading,
Some basic supplies for cleaning,
Something to prevent rust,

I can keep my rifle in good working order, either flintlock or caplock, with these basic tools,

A powder horn or flask,
An adjustable powder measure (I use a "set" or "fixed" measure in the field, but to work up a proper load, I needed an adjustable to begin)
A small screwdriver that fits the screws for the lock*
A knife with a flat butt to cut patches for the ball, or to cut cleaning patches*
A safety pin and a stout toothpick for a flintlock (or a pair of needle nose pliers if you have a caplock)*
A very small pair of vice-grip locking pliers**
A length of string about 12" longer than the barrel, with a permanent loop tied in the end
a small container of patch grease
Store bought rust preventative like Barricade, or some such moisture barrier
An old T-shirt to cut into cleaning patches
Liquid dish soap

And to actually shoot the thing a pound of 2Fg or 3Fg powder, flints or caps, proper size round ball, and patching material.

Notes:
* Some folks simplify these three tools by using a "leatherman" style multi-tool with a good sized blade, or a Swiss Army Tool that comes with pliers. You don't have to be that fancy though. The safety pin works to keep your touch-hole open AND it works for caplocks to keep the nipple hole open. It fastens to your clothes so won't go wandering. Works in a pinch to fasten the deer take to the deer's ear, and stuff the rest of the tag into the ear. ;)

** The tiny vice grips will work to give you slight compression on leaf springs such as the lock main spring, and the frizzen spring on a flintlock.., but it's better to splurge, I think, and get an actual spring vice for such springs. That's really the only "custom" tool for this hobby. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/115/1/TOOL-VISE

The looped string is used by passing the open end through the loop, which then allows you to cinch it down on cleaning patches, which patches you have cut from your old t-shirt, and larger ones you use to apply rust preventative on the outside of the barrel and the lock. The toothpick for the flinter you use to plug the touch hole when you pour water down the barrel during cleaning.

Additional useful tools...
A short starter for loading,

A patch worm,
If your gun has a pinned barrel, a punch to fit those pins if you need to remove the barrel, and a very small hammer, is a good idea,
A brush for the pan,
A very wide, flat, brass drift punch to move front and rear sights. You can use your screwdriver, but that's steel on steel...,
a "jag" for the end of the ramrod reduces your cleaning time and you are more thorough too,
A little funnel for the muzzle to help you pour in the water,
A bucket to catch the water that leaks from the touch hole or the nipple hole, and to dump in the barrel water (significant others don't like you to use the bathtub for some odd reason),
A bore brush made for muzzle loading rifles or guns (standard gun brushes are to be Avoided),
Some fishing-bobber lights to illuminate your bore so you can inspect it,
You can use the back of the patch knife to knap flints, but some folks like a tool just for that,
A bullet puller, screw type, or even a CO2 ball discharger,


There are of course a bunch of other items that some folks like and some folks don't. I tried to keep the list to what you can find in pretty much any hardware store (save the spring vice) and if you get used to using those common items, you can always go get some specialty items, but if you're out somewhere and left something behind, knowing that you can probably find what you need at a local store, can save your trip.

LD
 
Last edited:
Loyalist Dave is Duelist 54 on Youtube

I WISH.....,

I'm good friends with Mike Beliveau, but I don't have nearly the time, the range, nor the guns that he has ....
Concerning Duelist54..., "Men want to be him, women want to be with him, and animals want to be harvested by him"....:D

LD
 
In addition to the items mentioned, a nipple wrench for cap locks. One of those little pan chargers for putting in a small amount of fine powder thru the nipple or touch hole to get in behind the ball in case you forget to put the powder before the ball.
 
This could be a long or short discussion, depending on your level of dedication to detail.
These are the things that helped me the most when I went to the dark side'
1. WHAT are you shooting? Cap gun or Rock Lock?
For a cap gun you will need spare nipples, a nipple tool and a pick. Get a small tube of anti sieze. I prefer the automotive copper.
For a flinter, then flints and leather and a pick to fit the hole in the barrel.
2. Powder. I prefer real black, but there are substitutes. Powder choice is dependent on the rifle. For smaller calibers, a finer powder is best, For smaller than 50cal a FFFG would be preferred. For larger than 54 cal, FFG. For those calibers in between (50-54) then either one seems to work just fine.
3. Lead - So what's the twist rate on your barrel? For fast twist (less than 1:48) then a conical is usually preferred. For slower than 1:48 a patched round ball. For round ball, you will need the lead balls and some patch material, precut is fine but for the Puritans, only strips. You will also need a lube for the patches.
4. Cleaning. You can get by with as simple as soap and water with a good oil. You can get a lot more elaborate, over time you will find what you and your gun likes best.
A big bag of cleaning patches or an old cotton shirt, I ran out of old shirts so I buy bags of cleaning patches.
5. Tools. Powder flask, or horn, or as simple as a snout to fit the 1# bottles.
A powder measure, an adjustable to start so you can find your best loads.
A short starter is nice and makes things easy.
A couple of jags for each caliber, threads to fit your rod or a range rod (highly recommended)
A ball screw to remove balls that don't have powder under them. (Yes, it will happen)
A patch worm to chase down the random escaped patch. They like to hide in the bottom of your barrel.
6. A good sturdy box to hold all your "stuff". It can be as simple as a plastic tool box or as elaborate as a finely crafted work of art. You will find what you like.

There are dozens of other things you will find to enhance your kits and many other things to that are just plain cool to have.
Best part of all of this is the journey, that will become a way of life. The black powder world has greatly enhanced my enjpyment of being older and slowing down a lot from my younger years.
Take the time to enjoy it.
 
This could be a long or short discussion, depending on your level of dedication to detail.
These are the things that helped me the most when I went to the dark side'
1. WHAT are you shooting? Cap gun or Rock Lock?
For a cap gun you will need spare nipples, a nipple tool and a pick. Get a small tube of anti sieze. I prefer the automotive copper.
For a flinter, then flints and leather and a pick to fit the hole in the barrel.
2. Powder. I prefer real black, but there are substitutes. Powder choice is dependent on the rifle. For smaller calibers, a finer powder is best, For smaller than 50cal a FFFG would be preferred. For larger than 54 cal, FFG. For those calibers in between (50-54) then either one seems to work just fine.
3. Lead - So what's the twist rate on your barrel? For fast twist (less than 1:48) then a conical is usually preferred. For slower than 1:48 a patched round ball. For round ball, you will need the lead balls and some patch material, precut is fine but for the Puritans, only strips. You will also need a lube for the patches.
4. Cleaning. You can get by with as simple as soap and water with a good oil. You can get a lot more elaborate, over time you will find what you and your gun likes best.
A big bag of cleaning patches or an old cotton shirt, I ran out of old shirts so I buy bags of cleaning patches.
5. Tools. Powder flask, or horn, or as simple as a snout to fit the 1# bottles.
A powder measure, an adjustable to start so you can find your best loads.
A short starter is nice and makes things easy.
A couple of jags for each caliber, threads to fit your rod or a range rod (highly recommended)
A ball screw to remove balls that don't have powder under them. (Yes, it will happen)
A patch worm to chase down the random escaped patch. They like to hide in the bottom of your barrel.
6. A good sturdy box to hold all your "stuff". It can be as simple as a plastic tool box or as elaborate as a finely crafted work of art. You will find what you like.

There are dozens of other things you will find to enhance your kits and many other things to that are just plain cool to have.
Best part of all of this is the journey, that will become a way of life. The black powder world has greatly enhanced my enjpyment of being older and slowing down a lot from my younger years.
Take the time to enjoy it.
Thank you. Per my post "percussion". It's 50cal, 1:48. Would you go round ball? Just regular gun oil? This is very helpful Thank you!
 
My advise would be don't buy a lot of manure right out of the gate. I have a drawer-full of stuff I no longer use for muzzleloading.

What you need is the gear to fire and clean the rifle. I used only the wooden rod that came with mine for loading - though I have a 48" wood rod I use just for cleaning.

So, you need blackpowder and something to carry it in. A powder measure. Primer caps and something to carry those in. Balls. Patch material.

Lube: spit works, but if you want something else you'll have to buy or make it up and then also carry that.

A cleaning jag and cleaning patches. Handy to have a hunting bag to keep it all in so you don't forget something. And yes, someday you will need a ball puller. Have one and practice with it when you have time.

After that come the luxuries. Nipple wrench and a spare nipple. Maybe a capper (holds 20 or so caps and feeds them onto the nipple).

Here is what I carried the last time I went hunting with my caplock shotgun (not including powder & shot). This is the wads and cards for nine shots, caps in a little tube (made from an old cartridge) and a nipple wrench I made out of a glue-on arrow blunt tip. The nipple pick is a bent small paperclip.
NTXF7JD.jpg


If you carry a belt knife or pocket knife you don't need a separate patch knife. I find loading blocks with the patched balls ready to go, but they are neither very authentic or necessary.
 
Hey guys, thank you all so much for this invaluable information! I've now got a start, but I'm sure I'll have more neophyte questions... I appreciate your patience answering something you've probably already done 100x. God bless
 
Thank you. Per my post "percussion". It's 50cal, 1:48. Would you go round ball? Just regular gun oil? This is very helpful Thank you!
Well, with a 50 and a 1:48 twist you are pretty much open to shoot anything you like.
The patched roundball will be the easiest and the most economical. And just as deadly on anything except very large game (including large hogs).
Pretty much any oil works fine, I triy to make sure when I buy gun oil it has a rust preventative adder in it. I really like the FP10 but have used just about everything including a good grade of motor oil. I use a modified EDS RED for final clean and protection before putting them away in the safe. It does a great job without being messy.
Where are you located? There is probably a forum member near you that would enjoy going shooting with you. It's super good to have a mentor to show you the ropes. A lot of it you can't get from a book or a forum, you have to do it to really understand.
If you are close by, I extend an invitation to shoot with me at our local club.
 
Well, with a 50 and a 1:48 twist you are pretty much open to shoot anything you like.
The patched roundball will be the easiest and the most economical. And just as deadly on anything except very large game (including large hogs).
Pretty much any oil works fine, I triy to make sure when I buy gun oil it has a rust preventative adder in it. I really like the FP10 but have used just about everything including a good grade of motor oil. I use a modified EDS RED for final clean and protection before putting them away in the safe. It does a great job without being messy.
Where are you located? There is probably a forum member near you that would enjoy going shooting with you. It's super good to have a mentor to show you the ropes. A lot of it you can't get from a book or a forum, you have to do it to really understand.
If you are close by, I extend an invitation to shoot with me at our local club.
Thank you for your kind offer. I'm in Harpers Ferry, WV & nearby are Maryland and Northern VA. I agree, having someone show you & doing it is what it takes. I'm hoping to find someone. Thanks again for all your valuable information!
 
I have several nipple wrenches for my percussions guns, but have just used a cheap combination wrench to remove the nipple. I have several 1/4" ones I picked up for less than a $1 apiece found in the bins at a pawn shop or thrift store. They will work in a pinch. Also, I make sure my nipples come out easily before going afield and then just tighten them snug, not real tight so they are easy to remove. If you load a dry ball, the easiest way to clear the barrel is to remove the nipple and trickle a few grains of powder into the drum with the nipple out, push it into the barrel area if possible, re-install the nipple and shoot the ball out. I would also make sure you do have a ball puller of appropriate size for your ramrod. You have lots of good information given above, but I would re-iterate the caution to not buy a whole bunch of extra stuff until you get an idea of what you really need. I too have a drawer full of stuff I thought I needed.
 
I have several nipple wrenches for my percussions guns, but have just used a cheap combination wrench to remove the nipple. I have several 1/4" ones I picked up for less than a $1 apiece found in the bins at a pawn shop or thrift store. They will work in a pinch. Also, I make sure my nipples come out easily before going afield and then just tighten them snug, not real tight so they are easy to remove. If you load a dry ball, the easiest way to clear the barrel is to remove the nipple and trickle a few grains of powder into the drum with the nipple out, push it into the barrel area if possible, re-install the nipple and shoot the ball out. I would also make sure you do have a ball puller of appropriate size for your ramrod. You have lots of good information given above, but I would re-iterate the caution to not buy a whole bunch of extra stuff until you get an idea of what you really need. I too have a drawer full of stuff I thought I needed.
Makes sense. Thank you
 
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