Shortly after getting mine I switched to 3F also for the same reason.
Ignition Problems – No I idea what I am doing!!! Please help!
- Thread starter Bumpy Rhodes
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It does, though a different design. Here is a cut away from a caplock. and a bore shot from a flintlock with a tooth pick push through the touch hole.
Yep , keep it clean and dry and you'll be fine. After a good cleaning , pumping water through it, dry it out good . You can pull the liner and use a q-tip to further dry/clean the small chamber.Yesterday I didn't know what a patent breech was, now I have one!
thank you very much friend for answering my question and showing the pics. much appreciatedIt does, though a different design. Here is a cut away from a caplock. and a bore shot from a flintlock with a tooth pick push through the touch hole.
Not trying to kick you while you're down, but most offshore made ML's have them. Doesn't mean they aren't serviceable, just means ya gotta dance with them differently.
My first Flinter was a Lyman GPR I bought used. I experienced all the problems you are having. I was close to hucking that 9 pound hunk of junk into the creek. A few calls, texts and pictures with my buddy Gum Slough Muzzleloader, he talked me out of doing something stupid. I did a bunch of reading of old posts, I'm mean hours at a time, for days. Proper sized flints, proper cleaning techniques, and a new $6 touch hole liner, and that ol girl runs like a well made watch and I wouldn't sell it for twice what I paid for it. It'll happen for you too.
I use for my flints which I prefer over a percussion the following: 2f powder for the barrel and 4f for the pan. For example, I use 90 grains of 2f in the barrel but do not ramrod it down Hollywood style. I use a shotgun wad and seat it down followed by a lubricated patch and ball. I made a vent pick which use to push into the vent hole so there is a trough, if you will, into the powder. I do not fill the pan full but actually about just about a third of 4f. Before all of this I check my flint for sharpness and direct contact coming down on the frizzen.
FYI, if there are barely any sparks could mean problem with the flint or again the pan is too full.
Get back to me and I am no expert but prefer a flint all of the time.
I rigged up a clear vinyl hose to my shop faucet to run hot water to rinse the bore. I don't think it was flushing the patent breech though. I plan to make an attachment to screw into the touch to flush hot water trough there also.
UPDATE:
I think you guys helped me get a good handle on the patent breech cleaning and keeping dry, and I like the idea of tapping the barrel to be sure powder gets down into it. I never knew to poke the touchhole after loading the main charge, I will start doing that, as well as not have primer powder blocking the hole. It was zero this morning so it'll be several days before I do more tests.
I am still playing around with the flints, lots to learn there. I get good sparks when the flint is too far forward and pushes on the firzzen at half cock. When I move it back, I get the bounce. I will try moving the flit around, lead instead of leather, I even read something about checking the hammer force and maybe lighten it.
Again, you guys have been extremely helpful and I'll provide updates as I work through it! THANKS!
I think you guys helped me get a good handle on the patent breech cleaning and keeping dry, and I like the idea of tapping the barrel to be sure powder gets down into it. I never knew to poke the touchhole after loading the main charge, I will start doing that, as well as not have primer powder blocking the hole. It was zero this morning so it'll be several days before I do more tests.
I am still playing around with the flints, lots to learn there. I get good sparks when the flint is too far forward and pushes on the firzzen at half cock. When I move it back, I get the bounce. I will try moving the flit around, lead instead of leather, I even read something about checking the hammer force and maybe lighten it.
Again, you guys have been extremely helpful and I'll provide updates as I work through it! THANKS!
Banjoman
Hillbilly
Banjoman
Hillbilly
I found this also if it helps.
Do not use lead to hold the flint, unless you want to break lock internals. You are already working with a cheap lock, no use to abuse it. Makers of quality locks won't honor a warranty if you use lead on their locks.
Those telling you to remove the clean out screw are full of beans. Those were never intended to be removed, they were a manufacturing short cut.
I read that the lead might help eliminate the flint bouncing off the frizzen, do you have another idea?
Banjoman
Hillbilly
I second all of this.
Banjoman
Hillbilly
Ask folks like Jim Kibler, Jim Chambers and Mike Miller. I’m sure they’ll tell you to use leather.
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If it sparks, don't worry about it. You have a cheap lock, no use putting lipstick on a pig. Just enjoy the rifle until you can get a better one. This one will actually be a good learning experience for you.
Have you read my posts? Do you have anything to offer that might help solve any of the problems with my spark?
I was hoping to get help, telling me what not to do does not help me solve problems, thanks.
Use leather to hold the flint. Use a matchstick or a short piece of leather lacing to adjust the striking angle of the flint so it scrapes the frizzen.
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If it was mine, I would use a wooden shim under your leather wrap and flint to raise the flint so it strikes the frizzen higher. Maybe a piece of paint stirring stick. It’s unconventional I guess but if it improves your spark you know what the problem is.
Banjoman
Hillbilly
Make sure your flint is sharp. If it will cut you it’s sharp enough. With a clean, dry chamber and bore and real black powder, that gun should be ready to go. Don’t fret too much yet.
Banjoman
Hillbilly
Here’s a short and poor video of me putting an edge on a homemade flint. Like gun cleaning and patch lube, there’s several different ways to do it. This works for me.
