Ignition problems with a T.C. Renegade

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James Beardsley

Jacks Grampa
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I can only get dependable ignition if I load the powder and projectile then remove the nipple and prime with a bit of powder. Powder is Goex FFG and cap is CCI # 11 of unknown age. Gun and nipple are both clean. When it fails to fire I see some of the compound from the cap on top of the nipple. This gun has been a dependable shooter for 30 years. Thanks, James
 
The TC flame channel path isnt ideal. Ive seen a few that have a bit of debris(rust, carbon, fouling) can partially clog them just enough to hang or misfire. Sometimes you have to shove a good borescope down there to check. The 2 things i would suggest are a new nipple and when loading powder in it, give a few raps on the lock plate area with your hand or short starter to help shift more powder directly under the nipple. Also try firing just a cap, while pointing muzzle at the ground, and see how much pressure comes out. Oughta be enough to see leaves or grass moving. If not youve got an obstruction of some kind.
 
T/C barrels have a powder chamber that's smaller than the bore diameter, into which fouling builds up, giving ignition problems.

Often, during "cleaning", burnt powder and/or oil is pushed into that chamber while pushing a cleaning or oiling patch downbore.

I solved the same issue with one of my T/C's years ago via immersing the breech end of the barrel in kerosene (after removing the nipple) for a few days to dissolve any powder fouling - following up with running a pipe cleaner into the ignition channel inside the snail.
 
I have always heard a picture is worth a 1000 words. Here is a drawing of patent breech plugs and a picture of three T/C breech plugs. New, somewhat maintained and not maintained. As you can see it doesn't take much to plug or restrict the flash hole channel. The last one looks wet as it was soaked in Kroll for a few days before being removed. Another one was so dirty it had to be soaked in white vinegar to loosen the rust, soaked and blown out with compressed air multiple times to get it completely freed up, wish I had a picture of that one.

I would only recommend white vinegar if the breech plug is removed, white vinegar will remove bluing too.

hQv38Kw.jpg
Breech-Plugs.jpg
 
What nipple are you using?
My Hawken was a misfiring fiend with Tresco nipples. They have an extremely narrow aperture. The problem lessened considerably after 40 or 50 shots.
I use the same nipples in my unmentionable, without issue. Now, when Calico ( unmentionable)needs a new nipple, the old one goes to the Hawken and ignition is perfect.
Recycling!
 
To add to Muddly's comment. How old is the nipple and how much has it been used? It maybe you just need a new nipple since you said it has work well for 30 years. DANNY
 
Got it shooting but the groups are terrible. 3" at 50 yards is too loose. Barrel is .50cal. 28" 1in24" twist Green Mountain . Bullet is TC Maxi Hunter 250gr. over a felt wad and 90gr. of FFG. I'm wondering how patched ball would shoot now. I have an old box of Hornady 385gr HBHP but the lube has crystalized. I think I'll clean them and lube with Bore Butter. I'll try both tomorrow.
 
Got it shooting but the groups are terrible. 3" at 50 yards is too loose. Barrel is .50cal. 28" 1in24" twist Green Mountain . Bullet is TC Maxi Hunter 250gr. over a felt wad and 90gr. of FFG. I'm wondering how patched ball would shoot now. I have an old box of Hornady 385gr HBHP but the lube has crystalized. I think I'll clean them and lube with Bore Butter. I'll try both tomorrow.
Try a Lyman Plains over a felt wad , start @ 80 gr OE 2F /all my Renegade barrels (even 1-48) shoot great 200yd scoped . If you dont cast I do PM me/Ed
 
Thanks Ed. I cast but that gun is shooting tighter groups with PRB than conicals. How can that be in a 1in24" twist barell?
 
My .54 Renegade fires just fine with a Treso nipple and regular CCI #11 caps.
I think a pipe cleaner and scrubbing out the flame channel is a good suggestion, perhaps build up has occurred over time. I've always cleaned mine with the bucket of water method, the pushing/pulling of water through there seems to keep it clear. And when I store it with a rust preventative I always keep it muzzle down to prevent any from getting into the flame channel.
Many have reported poor accuracy with Maxi Hunters. It is a very short and light bullet, more suited to a slower twist per say. Even people with the factory 1:48 twist bores report hit and miss accuracy with them. With the faster twist you have I'd try a longer and heavier flat based bullet. OP wad is a good idea, I'd start around 80 grains of 2f and experiment with 5 grain changes.
 
Got it shooting but the groups are terrible. 3" at 50 yards is too loose. Barrel is .50cal. 28" 1in24" twist Green Mountain . Bullet is TC Maxi Hunter 250gr. over a felt wad and 90gr. of FFG. I'm wondering how patched ball would shoot now. I have an old box of Hornady 385gr HBHP but the lube has crystalized. I think I'll clean them and lube with Bore Butter. I'll try both tomorrow.
Have you tried the maxihunters without the felt wad. I have the GM .45 and .50 barrels and the .45 shoots lead conicals better without the overpowder wad.
 
Tried with and without wad no improvement. The Hornady's were so old the lube crystalized. I'll try to clean and lube them. Tips on de-lubing would be handy. So far PRB is shooting best and it shouldn't be.
 
I have fired my TC for 40 years. After every range session, I remove the barrel from the stock and place the breech end in a bucket of very hot water and a few slivers of bar soap. A clean patch is pushed into the barrel and then I start pumping water in and out of the barrel. With each down stroke, water is forced through the threaded hole where the nipple resides. When the barrel gets too hot to hold, I remove the barrel from the water and start clean patches into the barrel. The nipple gets a good flushing with hot water also. The heat from the water helps dry the barrel while being wiped with clean patches. Before finishing, a patch with some rust preventative is run through the barrel. No misfires due to a blocked flash channel.
This method has worked well since the rifle was new. I will continue to use it as long as I can still shoot. You have my $0.02 worth of advice.
 
That's how I clean it except blowing it dry with compressed air before wiping and swabbing. Got it igniting now but accuracy is not what it should be.
 
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