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JMMauldwin

32 Cal.
Joined
Feb 14, 2013
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Greetings and thank you for taking the time to view this post! My name is Michael and yes, I'm ignorant when it comes to BP and I'm trying to overcome that issue.

Last week I purchased a musket that I'm hoping I have done the proper research on. I'd appreciate your input regarding what I "know" and please beat me about the heads and shoulders should if I have strayed down the wrong path..

I did some more digging, and after reviewing my notes I’ve collected thus far, here is what I believe I have identified..

The barrel, lock, and stock all have the War Department (WD) stamps along with the inspector's stampings, so I am confident that this was one of the issued weapons to an Infantry Regiment troop or to an NCO, a Sergeant, which was most common.

The “V.R” (Victoria Regina - Queen Victoria) markings on the lock is usually indicative of British Government manufacture and contracted Enfields. Additionally, after some cleaning, I know the maker of my barrel is Henry Clive, owner of Gun Barrel Works in Birmingham and Master of the Gun Barrel Proof House in Birmingham, was one of the top barrel smiths of that period, supplying barrels to British Ordnance. This barrel is modeled of the Model II, P53 (1853).

Contracted makers were required to mark their identity on the items they produced, so the Board of Ordnance could trace them, say if a barrel failed or the lock for example. It was usually done where it would not be visible externally when the firearm was assembled - i.e on the backside of the lock plate, in the case of a lock maker, and the underside of the barrel for a barrel maker, and so on. My barrel has the inscription of Henry Clive and my lock was built by Thomas Turner ”“ another prominent Gov contractor of the period, in 1857. The stock was manufactured by the Sinclair, Hamilton & Company.

I do not believe my musket is a P58/9 version due to the engraving around the lock plate and the hammer. The P58/59 models were produced via an assembly line as far as I can tell, when mass production was first introduced. Machined parts were interchangeable and did not have the border engraved hammers or lock plates. Additionally, the 1857 Native version had a fixed rear sight and not a graduated one, such as the one I have.

I would say that this is a P56 2-BAND ARMY Enfield as the lock date (1857) coincides with the P56 2-Band model’s production, the rear sight graduates to 1,100 yards, the rear sling swivel is behind the trigger furniture which designates an Army version, and it has the correct length 33” barrel. That would be great were it not for two problems.

The furniture is brass, like the 2 band 1858 Navy model, the Army model was steel, and there is no lug for the Pattern 1856 Yataghan bayonet.

Therefore, I tend to believe this is a P53 Short Rifle, Model II. The stock is dtd 1861 and likely a P56 Army stock with Navy furniture, although I’ve now seen some P53 Enfields with brass furniture that are non-Navy models. I'd like to say it is a P56 Short, but I question whether or not all P56 models had the lug for the Yataghan bayonet?

Can anyone provide additional information to clear the cloud surrounding my head at the moment?

COST: $240.00

p53_sh10.jpg

lock_110.jpg

img_0012.jpg
 
Drats, too late to edit. Anyway; the info on English volunteer rifles starts on page 17. I appologize...there is very sparse info regarding Thomas Turner. It was just a thought.
 
Very nice reference. This particular Musket will not be a participant in the Civil War. I say this with certainty due to the British War Department stamps on all three pieces (barrel, lock, and stock). There are no "Opposing Arrow" stamps which would indicate that the musket was removed from British military service as was the Ordinance requirement. The War Department stamps confirm that this musket was issued to a British soldier.

My problem is that while I can identify the various pieces, I cannot determine the rifling and hence the type of munition to use: ball, mini-ball, bullet...

I cannot have the musket checked by an expert as there are none here where I am presently.
 
If you are in the Fayetteville, NC area you can contact Buck Buchanan at 910-977-6200 or [email protected]. Buck at one time owned the now-closed Cumberland Knife and Gun Works on Bragg Blvd. He is an NMLRA field rep and belongs to the Cross Creek Long Rifles which will be hosting the NMLRA Territorial Match this Spring. Mike Ehinger (sp?) used to live near Fayetteville but I do not know his status at this time. Mike is a restorer of black powder firearms. If you contact Buck tell him Lin sent you. Even if you are not close by, give Buck a call. He may be able to put you on someone close to your location.

The gun looks in good shape but well-used, based on the corrosion at the breech. The rifling may well be gone. If not, it should take a .577 minie ball. I would have it checked out before firing. Good buy too.
 
Great contact! I am indeed from the Fayetteville area and I visited his store several years ago. I am currently sitting in a small metal container in Bagram, Afghanistan, hence, I am having to do a lot of digging on my own. I will definitely look him up upon return! Thanks!

I am trying to find a bore light so that I can positively identify the number of twists in the rifling. I know it will be either three or five, as it is too old to have six. The P56 had three and the P58 moved to a heavier barrel and five.

Should this have five, then I will answer my own question as to whether or not the P58 2-Bands were produced without the bayonet lug. Hopefully I will locate one soon so I can lay this to rest.

The musket-rifle is in very good condition considering it is untouched after 156 years. What appears to be corrosion around the nipple is actually grime and carbon build up that I have yet to clean. I was more focused on markings and identification.

I plan to have it checked out before I attempt to fire and even when blessed off, I'll strap it to a tire and fire it a few times before shouldering her! Sorry, but 156 years is a 156 years!

I am going to pick up an original bayonet from the same period along with another ram rod and hopefully a sling. I know I can get the rod and bayonet, but I am unsure if my friend has an original sling.

From my understanding, based on my readings, this musket will accept either a .577 or .58 cal, which is why so many Southern gentlemen liked it during the Civil War as they could use Union ammunition as well. However, I was told that I should "slug" the barrel to confirm this. I know that "slugging" will have something to do with measurement, but whether it is merely placing various size balls/"slugs" into the barrel and noting fit... I am clueless....
 
I was able to get a light into the barrel and identify 3 grooves in the rifling. Therefore, assuming my sources are correct, this will have 1:78 rifling.

That being said, can anyone give me some bullet/ball recommendations as well as where I should begin regarding powder charge from minimum to max?
 
To my understanding, slugging involves pouring molten lead into the barrel and making a cast of the bore.
 
Well, that sounds like an expensive process! Based on everything I've read, this will be a .577, 1:78 barrel.

Any recommendation regarding where to start, load wise, once I confirm it is safe to fire?
 
dyemaker said:
To my understanding, slugging involves pouring molten lead into the barrel and making a cast of the bore.

Actually, slugging can be done very successfully by using a material called 'Cerrosafe' - a very low-melting point metallic substance that you can heat up over a pan of boiling water.

1. Run an oily patch down the bore - this will prevent the Cerrosafe adhering to it.

2. Make up a length of twisted wire - I often use an old wire coat hanger, but anthing fairl substantial will do - with a few loops at each end, about six/eight inches long, and hang it vertically in the bore of the gun, leaving at least two inches sticking out. Then, pack about half the distance to the bottom end with newspaper, leaving a couple of inches gap between the paper and the muzzle. Pour in the Cerrosafe and allow it to set - about half an hour. Pull it out using the end of the wire loop. You will have perfect immpression of the bore that can then be measured.

Cerrosafe can be found in most hobby stores and many gun-stores, too, where it is used for chamber casting.

tac
 
Dble M said:
I was able to get a light into the barrel and identify 3 grooves in the rifling. Therefore, assuming my sources are correct, this will have 1:78 rifling.

That being said, can anyone give me some bullet/ball recommendations as well as where I should begin regarding powder charge from minimum to max?

1:78 rifling means it was made to shoot ball, NOT bullet.

tac
 
Dble M said:
From my understanding, based on my readings, this musket will accept either a .577 or .58 cal, which is why so many Southern gentlemen liked it during the Civil War as they could use Union ammunition as well.

Sir - you are misreading the texts. The British who developed this calibre caled/call it.577!, the Americans, who knew a good thing when they saw it, simply rounded up the figures to .58", thereby saving much precious ink.

In any case, I'd be totally gobsmacked if your gun were to measure much in the way of either of them as bores differed substantially depending on the inspector of the day, that bore figure being an NBD, or nominal bore diameter. That's why so many of us shoot the real thing, or even the modern replicsa, with a variety of different diameter projectiles to see which fit best. I shoot two .577 Sniders - one is .585" and the other is .590". My Musketoon, also a .577" shoots the Lyman .582" Minié bullet.

Just noting.

Stay safe over ther, eh?

tac
 
tac said:
Dble M said:
I was able to get a light into the barrel and identify 3 grooves in the rifling. Therefore, assuming my sources are correct, this will have 1:78 rifling.

That being said, can anyone give me some bullet/ball recommendations as well as where I should begin regarding powder charge from minimum to max?

1:78 rifling means it was made to shoot ball, NOT bullet.

tac

Sorry TAC, but IF it is 1:78 twist it was designed to shoot the Minié ball, not round ball or any other standard modern muzzle loading bullet like the Maxi Ball, etc. Example? The standard twist for the original .58 cal. US Rifle Musket was 1:72, the P53 was close to that as well.
 
Va.Manuf.06 said:
tac said:
Dble M said:
I was able to get a light into the barrel and identify 3 grooves in the rifling. Therefore, assuming my sources are correct, this will have 1:78 rifling.

That being said, can anyone give me some bullet/ball recommendations as well as where I should begin regarding powder charge from minimum to max?

1:78 rifling means it was made to shoot ball, NOT bullet.

tac

Sorry TAC, but IF it is 1:78 twist it was designed to shoot the Minié ball, not round ball or any other standard modern muzzle loading bullet like the Maxi Ball, etc. Example? The standard twist for the original .58 cal. US Rifle Musket was 1:72, the P53 was close to that as well.

Apologies. I am corrected. :redface:

I SHOULD know, since I shoot both of 'em.

tac
 
Dble M said:
Great contact! I am indeed from the Fayetteville area and I visited his store several years ago. I am currently sitting in a small metal container in Bagram, Afghanistan, hence, I am having to do a lot of digging on my own. I will definitely look him up upon return! Thanks!

I am trying to find a bore light so that I can positively identify the number of twists in the rifling. I know it will be either three or five, as it is too old to have six. The P56 had three and the P58 moved to a heavier barrel and five.

Should this have five, then I will answer my own question as to whether or not the P58 2-Bands were produced without the bayonet lug. Hopefully I will locate one soon so I can lay this to rest.

The musket-rifle is in very good condition considering it is untouched after 156 years. What appears to be corrosion around the nipple is actually grime and carbon build up that I have yet to clean. I was more focused on markings and identification.

I plan to have it checked out before I attempt to fire and even when blessed off, I'll strap it to a tire and fire it a few times before shouldering her! Sorry, but 156 years is a 156 years!

I am going to pick up an original bayonet from the same period along with another ram rod and hopefully a sling. I know I can get the rod and bayonet, but I am unsure if my friend has an original sling.

From my understanding, based on my readings, this musket will accept either a .577 or .58 cal, which is why so many Southern gentlemen liked it during the Civil War as they could use Union ammunition as well. However, I was told that I should "slug" the barrel to confirm this. I know that "slugging" will have something to do with measurement, but whether it is merely placing various size balls/"slugs" into the barrel and noting fit... I am clueless....

Great! Glad you have met Buck. He is very helpful. I have known Buck for 40 years. He and his late partner, Lew Sanchez, ran the store for quite awhile and it was probably the best BP oriented store (maybe the only one) in NC. As someone else said, .58 and .577 are essentially the same round and usually interchangeable. Slugging the bore would be a good idea. Since cerrosafe is probably not available in Bagram, you might want to bring the thing home before attemptiong to shoot it. At any rate, having a British military rifle, found in Afghanistan, which appears 100% original, would be great even if you decide not to shoot it. The corrosion I was referring to was on the barrel in the photo of the lock plate. Fulminate priming used in 19th c. musket caps was quite corrosive and that accounts for a lot of the corrosion in that area of the gun. Any way, it is a great looking piece and really speaks to me as a student of British military history. Thank you for sharing.
 
a fascinating piece. and at an excellent bargain, too ...

sorry to hear the Cumberland Knife and Gun went under- -i bought my first flintlock there many years ago.
:(
 
MSW said:
a fascinating piece. and at an excellent bargain, too ...

sorry to hear the Cumberland Knife and Gun went under- -i bought my first flintlock there many years ago.
:(
I don't remember exactly when it was shut down but I believe it has been at least 10 years. The store evolved into something other than a muzzle loading shop over the years, to stay afloat. After it closed Buck opened a little place called the Fayetteville Arms Room but shut that down a couple of years ago. I see him at gun shows every now and then. The Winchester Regulator clock that used to hang in the shop is over my fireplace. I snuck in there one day and bought it when Buck was not looking. When he comes to visit I have to watch him like a hawk or it will leave with him. Good times.
 
I will definitely be checking the P56 back home BEFORE any firing attempt! Thanks for the input from everyone!

I went by my friend's shop yesterday and he has two socket bayonets and is looking for about $60 each. They are War Department stamped and in pretty good condition. I'm just not sure if I really "need" a bayonet..

I picked up a another ramrod that is in fairly good condition and still has the threads for a worm and what not. The other was missing the threads and he merely swapped them out. Both are original and show the correct markings.

He is going to pick up an original sling for me within the next two weeks for $20. He said that it will be in very good condition and I'm looking forward to receiving it! Unfortunately he doesn't have any musket wrenches.

I looked at a few carbines and Sniders he has, as well as several British 3-band Enfields that looked pretty nice also. I'm just not looking to purchase another one.

Does anyone know of a post that already exists (I'm sure) that provide a good listing and discussion of what kit (accessories) are required for the beginner so that I don't have to reinvent the list? I'm seriously considering deer hunting with this one, after confirming that it is capable of being fired.

While I'm very capable with weapons as they have been part of my livelihood these past 30 years, BP shooting is going to be a brand new experience for me! Seriously looking forward to the excitement!!
 
I have tried to find a correct bayonet for every rifle, BP or otherwise, that I own. They just feel more "complete" to me with that little accessory. I would definitely look at some other rifles if your guy has them and you can get them home without issue. Heck, if you can get a nice Snider or Enfield for something like the cost of your Enfield, I would consider taking it off your hands when you get home. Museum Replicas and IMA are selling Sniders and other muskets for much higher prices than what I think you may be seeing and those are seldom shootable. Be safe and get home soon. Thank you too for your service.
 

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