I'm already frustrated, and I've had the gun 30 minutes!

[S.Kenton]

Also make sure stain or some sort of sealer is applied in the barrel Channel, lock mortise and trigger cavity, as well as the other places that aren’t seen. This will protect those areas from moisture over the years.

 

[dave_person]

"What I find interesting (and challenging) is the fact that these rifles are in no way similar to a modern rifle, mechanically speaking. I've been working on rifles and shotguns for 50 years. On modern guns most of the screws are interchangeable. You just throw them in a pile when disassembling it, and grab one from the pile when you put it back together. On this dadburn thing, every piece, every screw, every pin is unique to its placement in the rifle, making it imperative that you place it back in the gun exactly as it came out."

Welcome to hand made pre-industrial era objects, which is what Jim's kits are based on despite his modern production methods. Their charm is that you actually have to think of them differently than a mass produced monkey wrench.

dave

 

[dave_person]

Also make sure stain or some sort of sealer is applied in the barrel Channel, lock mortise and trigger cavity, as well as the other places that aren’t seen. This will protect those areas from moisture over the years.

Hi,
That is not absolutely necessary although I do it myself. However, some neophyte assemblers may get a nasty shock when the stain and finish swells the wood around their metal parts so precisely fitted by CNC.

dave

 

[bakerjw]

FWIW, I regularly make my own small punches. For something that small, I would use a hardwood finish nail as they are much harder than a regular finish nail.

I am in the process of building my first flintlock and there are tabs under the barrel that are used to affix the barrel to the stock.

 

[oldhunter1954]

I built a colonial about a month ago. Jim sends Steel Pinstock Wire 0.037" Diameter with the kit. A 1/16" Roll Pin Punch should be a perfect fit. As already stated there is a pin for each Ram Rod pipe and 4 for the barrel. There is the the Rear Tang Bolt and 2 Lock Bolts.

 

[oldhunter1954]

If you watch his videos you will be fine.

 

[toot]

breath slow & steady. it will come to pass!

 

[Dixie Dog]

I just got my Kibler Colonial in the white, and there is not one word on how to remove the barrel from the stock for finishing. There's like ten pins on the stock, but no instruction on which, if any, have to be removed to separate the stock and barrel. I guess if I had built the gun, I'd know these things, but I didn't, so I don't!

I assume I'll have to remove them all to sand and finish the stock. Where in the world do you get a punch that small (especially one that's not tapered)? At the moment my blood pressure is rising so fast, I'm about three minutes from having a stroke! The funny thing is all the people on here who told me how easy it would be to buy the kit and put it together, and I can't even handle the simple task of removing the barrel and hardware!

How did your Kibler turn out?

 

[Eric Krewson]

There is a lot of this M/L rifle stuff that is confusing at first, like lock disassembly or removing the breechplug, once you do it a few times it becomes second nature.

By the way, you will have to disassemble your lock to finish it, browned, grayed or otherwise, like pulling the barrel, it is easy if you have the right tools.

 

[JHB]

File the point of a finish nail flat and use it as a punch. Never strike a drill bit with a hard object. They shatter I know this because I spent most of my working career in a tool and die shop. I can't count the number of drills I broke and had to dig pieces out of my hand. One fellow almost lost an eye because he broke a drill and refused to ware safety glasses.
Enjoy your build but please use the correct tool for the job.

 

[S.Kenton]

File the point of a finish nail flat and use it as a punch. Never strike a drill bit with a hard object. They shatter I know this because I spent most of my working career in a tool and die shop. I can't count the number of drills I broke and had to dig pieces out of my hand. One fellow almost lost an eye because he broke a drill and refused to ware safety glasses.
Enjoy your build but please use the correct tool for the job.

I use the flat end of that same sized drill bit when I remove my pins as well. It’s not like your beating the tar out of the bit trying to remove the pin... it’s a light tap and I’ve yet to break one yet. Another thing, I use what tool works best and even make some tools for the job... This sport is NOT a “ one size fits all” type of hobby. Sometimes we have to use what works... I don’t consider a small finish nail as the right tool for the job, but it does work.

 

[jefair1]

You should take some pictures ofveac step of your progress. That way you will have something to look back at and share. You could also post them on here and some of the more experienced members could offer ideas.

 

[Vaino]

One attribute that hasn't been mentioned is PATIENCE when working on projects of any kind, but especially on MLers. I use 1/16 dia. hardened music wire for ALL the pins in my LR builds and slightly chamfer both ends. Made a drift from a length of Allen wrench and shoved it into a piece of brass. The corners of the Allen wrench length were stoned of for a nice fit in the 1/16 dia holes. ....the end is also slightly chamfered for entering the holes.

When the installation of the pins is being done for the last time, the pins, which are shorter than the stock width, require that they first be pushed in level w/ the stock using a block of wood. All the holes should have been sized w/ a 1/16 drill prior to pin installation and shouldn't require a whole lot of force to push the pins in.

The drift is centered on the pin end and lightly tapped and driven below the stock surface ....the driflt can have the tendency to "skate " off the pin and damage the stock., so hold the drift firmly. The other end of the pin should be checked for also being below the stock surface. When all the pins have been installed, I cover the holes w/ a dark shoe polish, ......Fred

 

[Alan Ruuska]

The pins on your new rifle should move easily. On an older gun they may not. I was taught that if a pin doses not move on the first hit the punch should be lifted off the surface and re-centered on the pin. That way the stronger blow (it didn't move with the first blow) won't drive the punch off of the pin thus enlarging the pin hole to one side. An Optivisor or other visual magnification aid will be useful for this and many other aspects of rifle building and finishing.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Don't forget to whisker the stock before staining. Do it the first time down to 220 grit, and after that the successive number of times it takes with 320 grit. (And for heaven's sake, go WITH the grain. This is NOT a Garand, which were only sanded to 80 grit!) You will likely have to do it 3 times, but maybe 4 or 5. That's really important, particularly if you are using any type of stain with water in it, like AF or FN.

 

[Crow-Feather]

You are hopelessly in trouble. Send the rifle to me and I will help you remove the pins and finish the weapon. It should be returned to you in about 5 to 6 years after accuracy testing.
(seen this many times, today, I got it in first)

DO Not put the punch all the way through the stock. When the pin is about 3/4's out. Pull it straight out with a pin puller (pliers).

 

[Reno]

It Sounds like you have all the answers or help now. But set down, study the piece, kind of try to figure out what holds what or why is something there. Yes, you should visit your local hardware store, or tool supply store or depot. You will use a punch of 1/16" and a bit larger a lot. Also take care on the screwdrivers you use. If they are not ground to fit the screws that come with the piece, you can file them yourself. You should file them square so they fit the screws good. Just be careful you do not slip out and mare the slot. You just need to take your time. You will need the punches, files, screwdrivers, a small hammer helps a lot. You already know you will need sandpaper.
Not knowing how many or what kind of tools you have leaves a lot of unknowns, but I've heard what you have is a great kit and perhaps one of the easiest to assemble.
If it gets to you post a few pictures and the advice you will receive and instructions will be great.
Just set back, study what you have, see how it goes together and then how it comes apart. over time you will assemble, out of necessity, all the tools you need and then some. Welcome to the puttin together stuff. By the way it is a disease that needs fed. This is one and after this one is finished you will begin to "NEED" another one.

 

[garypl]

I have made a few flintlock rifles and live near Gainesville - glad to offer help if you need it!
Gary

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Make sure you mark what thimble goes where and front to back. The holes may not line up otherwise. Also put a slight chamfer on the pin holes in the thimbles and the barrel. It will help re pinning them

The chamfer is a good idea! To mark the order I used a punch and put 1 divot on the tang in the front thimble, 2 in next, 3 in the next.

 

[kh0456]

Sounds like you’ve got a boat load of info from the great folks on this forum! I saw someone had mentioned calling Jim. He is just a phone call or email away from any further help you may need. He’s a great guy with a ton of info on his rifles. He may not answer right away but he will get back to you.