In-Line capper modifictions for '58 Remington

[token tory]

Just a few pics of how & where I reshaped the end of my "Traditions" inline capper so it would work better (at all?) with the Remington cylinder's flanges, limiting access to the nipple itself. Red lines added to the pictures show where on the brass I filed to make the text a bit easier to understand.

I've found that the biggest problem area is actually the back of the extrusion. It is too wide for the Remmy & catches on the cylinder before the cap is seated on the nipple firmly.

I remove the spring by undoing the 2 screws then file the angled section down so that it never sticks out past the shape formed by the outside edge of the spring that holds the nipple.

The front (inside) flange should be shaped to easily slide down inside the recess or the nipple as well. Very little actual material is needed here so if you go a bit overboard it's no biggie as long as the cap is still wedged in place.

Finally I radius all sharp corners & edges from the business end of the capper so that nothing can grab & bind the inside edges of the cylinder.

It looks much harder than it is to do this. The only tool I used was the file on my leatherman tool & the total elapsed time taken was about 15 minutes, including screwing the spring back on.

After I did this I also discovered that the capper needs to be angled at 90 degrees to the actual nipple itself, not the cylinder. This means the capper will be angled slightly down (towards the muzzle)when pushing the caps squarely on to the nipple. Once pushed down onto the nipple rotating the capper's end towards the muzzle, instead of pulling it off backwards, seems to drop the caps neatly onto the nipple, & this also seems to reduce the number of retrys caused by the cap not being released from the capper spring & grabbed by friction with the nipple as well.

 

[hawk]

good stuff thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

 

[token tory]

Thanks, I try to help out when I have something to offer.
Just a follow up thought. The other popular style, the one with 2 springs on opposite sides of the cap won't work. Why not? Because the width of the brass extrusion has to go into the end so far to hold the dual springs that it is too wide to enter the cut in the cylinder at all on the Remington I have because the flanges (flash shields?) ae too close together. The whole trick here is the long slow taper of the brass because of the single spring design. :thumbsup:

 

[CaptainKirk]

Using your pictures, I did the "Colonialist mod" on my capper today. Took a few scant minutes with a needle file. I tried setting a few caps, seems to work on the dry run. If only the weather didn't suck, I'd try it at the range...
Thanks for the detailed description & pix!

 

[token tory]

Glad to help.
I found the trick was to start off slightly "crook" to plumb so the cap lined up with the axis of the angled nipple, then push down while rotating the ringed end of the capper towards the muzzle. This seems to seat the cap fully & then disengage the capper's spring.

The nice thing is that if it's not dead perfect you just file off a tad more till it is. :v

 

[tshrcav8r]

I had a chance to try this as well. Worked like a champ. I have been looking for a capper that would work, but I hadn't been able to find one. Great idea, thank you very much, Tim

 

[token tory]

Again, glad to be of service.
Just a small way to pay back all the good stuff I learned here when starting out. :hatsoff:

 

[cheyenne08]

Thank you for the information, I was going nuts trying to figure out what I was doing wrong with my cappers. :bow:

I will hand cap until I get the Traditions capper and a needle file. :thumbsup:

Dale