In over my head with mystery rifle?

[appalichian hunter]

I am a lefty, and been waiting on Mr. Kibler to make a lefty southern kit, keep hoping, good luck on the build and keep us informed of the progress.

 

[LawrenceA]

I think I read in one of Dave Person's post that he has filed the tops of the barrel breech end to get a more pleasing curve but I cannot remember where I read it.
He had to then cheat the lines on the flats. It may help you a little but obviously not entirely.
Could maybe use a maple patch?????
I think you are right a slight bevel on the tang will also help bring it all into line.

 

[troy2000]

As a woodworker, it hurts to see discussions of patching that stock with acraglas. I'd much rather see wood Dutchmen slightly larger than the holes, and new inletting cut in from scratch. If you're careful about grain match and a little creative with aging and finishing, you'd be surprised what you can get away with..

 

[vintovka]

I think I read in one of Dave Person's post that he has filed the tops of the barrel breech end to get a more pleasing curve but I cannot remember where I read it.
He had to then cheat the lines on the flats. It may help you a little but obviously not entirely.
Could maybe use a maple patch?????
I think you are right a slight bevel on the tang will also help bring it all into line.

Ok will look for it. Just looked at Kiblers site and may be just too late to beat price increases. Kits are now like 1K complete and locks alone are like $300!!! Real fun/funds drainer. I think there's a maximum price point to anything and we are closing in fast on ours. Necessities alone may now dictate how we roll.

 

[vintovka]

As a woodworker, it hurts to see discussions of patching that stock with acraglas. I'd much rather see wood Dutchmen slightly larger than the holes, and new inletting cut in from scratch. If you're careful about grain match and a little creative with aging and finishing, you'd be surprised what you can get away with..

You are absolutely correct. I'll be lucky to get it done with glas while somewhat upright. Maybe next owner will have the skill and resources to do right.

 

[martin9]

You're rear lock bolt is going to have to go through the breech plug on the inside of the barrel or skirt it by at least half the bolt thickness. The bridle screw hole is about the position the lock bolt hole should go. I like resurrection projects but I'd scrap it I believe. If not I'd weld or solder a chunk of steel on the back of the lock plate to make the lock bolster longer so I have something to drill for the lock bolt.

 

[Mulemauler]

It is much easier to build one from scratch than to make parts fit something that was improperly laid out. My hat is off to you for attempting the project!

 

[McClura]

Great find and looks like you are doing a great job getting the rifle back in shape for shooting. Nothing wrong with fixing up stuff others didn't take the time to build right. Can't wait to see the results of your restoration. I bet it will be a shooter. I have done a couple that was chopped up.
Good luck
Mike

 

[Flintandsteel]

You know, some things are just not worth salvaging.
Sorry, get a new piece of wood, and build a gun.

 

[Billy Boy]

As a woodworker, it hurts to see discussions of patching that stock with acraglas. I'd much rather see wood Dutchmen slightly larger than the holes, and new inletting cut in from scratch. If you're careful about grain match and a little creative with aging and finishing, you'd be surprised what you can get away with..

I solidly agree. There is always an error put into every one I have ever made.
i do this so I don’t offend the small gods who watch over folks who build rifles.

 

[vintovka]

You know, some things are just not worth salvaging.
Sorry, get a new piece of wood, and build a gun.

Might be right, but cost of new stocks/parts right now is not only absurd. but climbing daily. The joy of inflation is just now being passed down to the ML community with a sledge hammer.

 

[vintovka]

You're rear lock bolt is going to have to go through the breech plug on the inside of the barrel or skirt it by at least half the bolt thickness. The bridle screw hole is about the position the lock bolt hole should go. I like resurrection projects but I'd scrap it I believe. If not I'd weld or solder a chunk of steel on the back of the lock plate to make the lock bolster longer so I have something to drill for the lock bolt.

Thanks for your concerns. Rear bolt goes thru existing plug and hits perfectly on the "double" plate pan attachment. So far it appears to clear bridle and other parts. Won't know for sure till all the glas in the lock mortise is gone. The Large Siler is very close to whatever original lock was Now thinking rifle was built like 40 to 50+ years ago and parts came from now defunct sources. Still confused why glas was just smeared in every inlet.

 

[Allenby]

Hi, I think you have a great chance to make a rifle that when completed you can take pride in. I would check out a breech plug with more flare and wider. The stock looks like it has a fine curl and will finish nicely. As you mentioned slow is good.

 

[vintovka]

Hi, I think you have a great chance to make a rifle that when completed you can take pride in. I would check out a breech plug with more flare and wider. The stock looks like it has a fine curl and will finish nicely. As you mentioned slow is good.

Thanks for suggestion. I like all my "resurrection's" more than factory finished ones. "FrankenFlinter" may be last as age is closing in fast and costs are rapidly outweighing fun factor. Heading out to shop now to do battle again. If anyone can identify the butt and toe plate inletting it would be a blessing. I really need a recent TOTW catalog. They are out of print now as well.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I think you've found a fun project and a good learning opportunity.
Since you're going to "save" the stock and lock mortise, you will need to "patch" where the wood is missing, and so perhaps you might also want to reshape the profile of the mortise to a more symmetrical shape, and match the wood shape for the side plate on the other side?

While she will never be a beauty queen to those who don't know the back-story (beauty is in the eye of the beholder, too) , when completed..., comparing the finished rifle with what you started should be very satisfying. Especially if she shoots. Probably will be a great "field rifle" as pretty much no matter what happens while hunting, it's never going to be as bad as where you started.

LD

 

[Grenadier1758]

Thanks but current TOTW catalog says out of stock, wish i had access to one. Buttplate and toeplate are gonna be a PITA!!

You can print the page from the on line catalog. The print will be close to actual size. Compare the print measurements to the specified measurements and adjust the size using your printer as a copier.

 

[vintovka]

You can print the page from the on line catalog. The print will be close to actual size. Compare the print measurements to the specified measurements and adjust the size using your printer as a copier.

I will try that today. thanks!!

 

[vintovka]

I think you've found a fun project and a good learning opportunity.
Since you're going to "save" the stock and lock mortise, you will need to "patch" where the wood is missing, and so perhaps you might also want to reshape the profile of the mortise to a more symmetrical shape, and match the wood shape for the side plate on the other side?

View attachment 81172

While she will never be a beauty queen to those who don't know the back-story (beauty is in the eye of the beholder, too) , when completed..., comparing the finished rifle with what you started should be very satisfying. Especially if she shoots. Probably will be a great "field rifle" as pretty much no matter what happens while hunting, it's never going to be as bad as where you started.

LD

Thanks will try to do that before final finish. This area shape combined with other stuff like screwed on parts (instead of pinned) and strange fittings really add to mystery of where and when. While i was at gun works i had time to examine the racks of rifles for the best and worst of others work. If i can get to the middle i will be happy. The 5/16" ramrod set up also strikes me as weird.

 

[Rudyard]

At the risk of seeming negative this botch cant be saved, would suggest get a Fort Hill pre shape & start again .Maples good kindling or comes in for restoration patches. Not sure if Fort Hill still in business but they offered the least expensive pre shape stock blanks and where pleasant fellows to deal with .
Rudyard

 

[vintovka]

Frankenflinter is ALIVE , ( well sorta) Been waiting on parts and now closing in. Thimbles are in. Lock, set triggers and guard are in and work and a bad fit Gobrecht plate was found. A correct sized nosecap was also found and installed. It was 15/16 and barrel is 13/16. Original nose cap was glassed on and removed by carefully heating it to loosen.

Many Thanks to Sam Squanch!!! He sent me a TOTW catalog and found a buttplate that will work. I made a direct copy of the page and cutouts to make sure. Much more accurate than my efforts with TOTW pdf files. Other odd things about this poor thing is that the ramrod hole was never drilled so i made up with a 5/16" drill on a 42" rod. Worked fine. FWIW drill was mounted on rod with the heat shrink method as i am out of silver solder. Will replace the sideplate or add metal. The glas in all the inlets now leads me to believe original maker made them too deep. Will have to make the toe plate as well as i think it and sideplate were handmade. Planning on a very dark finish with just enough to see curls. Again function over form.