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Hi,
Here is how you prevent flint creep.
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dave
 
So I learned a new term here today!
Turtle back flint?
Is it safe to assume that a turtle back flint is a flint with a hump vice being flat?
I find them problematic in that as noted they tend to move. How do I know the difference when ordering? I have both but prefer the flat flints almost never know what I am getting when I order flints. I’m sure they are geared towards a certain lock can anyone explain the difference. I find the flints with a hump a PIA for me.
Thanks!
Joe
Turtle or humpback flints are made from cores instead of flakes. Blades are struck off the core along a ridge that serves as a strike platform which becomes the humpback when the blade is cut into flint sections.
 
I do keep flints in. Replace after cleaning. But pretty regularly during a shooting session check the tightness. And always check before I drop the first charge.
 
So I learned a new term here today!
Turtle back flint?
Is it safe to assume that a turtle back flint is a flint with a hump vice being flat?
I find them problematic in that as noted they tend to move. How do I know the difference when ordering? I have both but prefer the flat flints almost never know what I am getting when I order flints. I’m sure they are geared towards a certain lock can anyone explain the difference. I find the flints with a hump a PIA for me.
Thanks!
Joe
The humps can be ground off with a Green wheel in a shop grinder. Wear a dust mask while doing this ! I don't buy flints any longer as I prefer to make my own from flakes but have successfully ground off numerous humpback flints as described above.
 
1) Do you store your flintlocks with flint screwed in the jaws or out?
Used to leave them in but found random maintenance to be simpler without the flint in. Obviously it just takes less then a minute to put them on if I’m going shooting.
2) Anyone use “wooden flints” for dry firing practice with their smokepoles?
Saw a pic one time from somewhere (here?) and thought it was a clever idea so I just made a bunch out of bamboo.

I store my ML's with wooden "Flints" as its handy for any convenient dry firing practice and when clean oiling for rust prevention.
The only time a real Flint gets fitted is preparation for target shooting or a bush stroll.
 
Making a hammerstall is a fun quick project but I got too lazy even for that. Now I just go to the thrift store and buy a pair of leather gloves for $3 and cut the fingers off at home. With a little trimming I’ve got 10 hammerstalls and supported a local charity.

Yep old Glove leather should never be wasted, I use leather work gloves here on the property and when they need replacing keep them for salvage use, Flint wraps; Frizzen stalls; Coin purse and other uses.
 
So I learned a new term here today!
Turtle back flint?
Is it safe to assume that a turtle back flint is a flint with a hump vice being flat?
I find them problematic in that as noted they tend to move. How do I know the difference when ordering? I have both but prefer the flat flints almost never know what I am getting when I order flints. I’m sure they are geared towards a certain lock can anyone explain the difference. I find the flints with a hump a PIA for me.
Thanks!
Joe

Try using a narrow belt sanding machine (rechargeable is easy) to take the turtle hump down, and yeah you'll need to hold the Flint with your thumb and forefinger and go slow with it.
 
Hi,
The cut teeth are found on most original flintlocks. It is only us "modern" flintlock shooters that forgot about them. Instead we get useless ridges and bumps on our modern commercially made locks. I think you could sharpen the end of a small punch to cut the teeth as long as the tip is hard. I use an old round bottomed die sinker's chisel but they apparently are not made anymore.

dave
 
The humps can be ground off with a Green wheel in a shop grinder. Wear a dust mask while doing this ! I don't buy flints any longer as I prefer to make my own from flakes but have successfully ground off numerous humpback flints as described above.
I will try these recommendations. I bought a used rifle a few years ago the flint that was installed was dressed up and the edge was rounded. I assume to save hands from cuts. Despite it being rounded or oblong it made great sparks and the face of the prism showed no signs of hollowing. It actually had a pleasing look. I have scene other using the same on some you tube videos. This rifle was made in 1980 and the owners must have shot the heck out of it. The lock eventually failed and had to be rebuilt. I now have to assume the last owner ground them I tried chipping a few flints but just waisted them LoL 10 bucks in the garbage. Sometimes the obvious isn’t so obvious especially to me! Anyway thanks for the recommendations!
 
I take flints out, would hate one to misfire in the middle of the night.
Wait, no, I leave flints in just in case someone tries climbing in the window or kicks the door in!

I only use frizzen covers when traveling or out in wet conditions. It seems to me that storing with one on would be same as storing a pistol or blade in a leather sheath...besides, my frizzens like to breath.
 
If you don't have a good chisel to cut your flint hammer , I've used a small 3 sided file. Cut grooves , with the points of the file. Works.........oldwood
 

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