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Info on CVA Mountain Rifle please

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Alberta Black

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
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Hi folks

I have the chance to pick up a CVA Mountain rifle (.45) at a good price. It is one of those friend of a friend deals so I would hope to gather some information on this gun before I ask the fella to ship it to me. Any details like barrel twist, sights, finish, accuracy and general reliability would be appreciated.

thanks AB
 
How old of a rifle is it? My two are 28 to 30 years old or there abouts, one in .50, the other in .45 caliber. Here is what I know;

32" barrel
1 in 66 twist
Mine are stocked in maple
8 lands and groves
.008 depth rifling
Sights - fixed or adjustable ( I went with fixed)
3/8 dovetail for sights

Both rifles were always excellent shooters, though I haven't used either for 5 years or more now?

Now if this is a reintroduction CVA from the year 2000 or there abouts, I don't know anything about them.

Don't know if any of this helps, but here it is... :thumbsup:
 
I would think if you could get the rifle for the right price then I would get it. Traditional rifles are getting hard to find.

I personally never had a problem with the quality of the CVA sidelocks. They always shot real good for me.
 
I had one in .50 flint a Long time ago. Shot really nice.
Never had a problem with it....Looks great with the pewter nose cap. I could still kick myself for letting it go ! I would Strongly advise you to buy it if it looks good ......that means " DOWN THE BORE " also! Alot of people abuse em by not cleaning and ya know what that can do over the years.....
Note: I have seen the past 3 CVA Mountain rifles on gunbroker sell for over $300.

***** WV SCROUNGER ***
 
My first ML ever was a CVA mountain rifle, capper, in .50cal. I got it as a gift in 1978 and I still have it. It always shot good. My learning curve for bp's has been pretty steep and this gun survived it. I would say buy it if the price is right :thumbsup:
Ohio Joe did a good job with the specs.
 
Thanks guys for the info.

It is over 20 years old and had been sitting in a second hand shop for a number of years until a friend rescued it. Price is good, much less than $300 Canuck Bucks.

I am looking forward to playing with it.

AB
 
I also have one of the old CVA Mountain Rifles although I am just using the barrel. I re-stocked and re-locked it years ago. They used Sharon barrels when they first started selling CVA's and those were really good barrels.

The reason I went with a new lock was a problem with the CVA lock. It had a bad habit of breaking the lock sear spring at very inopportune times. I then had problems finding replacement sear springs. You might want to make sure the lock and sear are in good condition.

I only paid $140 for the gun new in about 1978.
 
I got one when they first came out in kit form. Made a nice looking gun for a beginner. Learned a lot with it, shot against everybody with anything and usually placed very well. Thats 30 years of shooting gave it to my son who is using it now. Tryed to get it back but he won't give it up. Never had any trouble with it but did put hotshot nipple in it. Cleanout screw is frozen but don't use it anyway. It's a good gun if the price is right killed a lot of game from deer on down just never hunted Elk or Bear.
Have fun: Fox :thumbsup:
 
Reckon I'm a beginner. That is what I still shoot. If you don't want it let me know. Mine will shoot better than a half blind old man like me can. Put it together from a kit in 78 and while it aint the best lookin, it sure is a shooter. :m2c:
 
:agree:I have the Big Bore MT. Rifle in .54. I got it as a kit in '79 or '80. It has put down deer and elk. It is still one of my primary hunting and target rifles. 1 in 66 twist and handles PRB and TC Maxi Balls just fine. Take care of it and it will take care of you. Wish I had a .45 version. :m2c: :results:
 
My dad got me a kit in .50 cal. in 1975 or 1976 ( its been about 30 years ago)and I've still got it and it shoots straight and true. If i get a chance I'll get another.

If its in good shape get it you wont be disapointed. :redthumb:
 
If I remember correctly, the CVA Mountain rifle is the only rifle CVA sold which was something to be sought after.

It has been mentioned on this forum that they used either a Douglas or equally good American barrel on it. The lock was well made and the style was very "Hawken" like.

While most of the CVA "Hawkens" and "Plains" and "Traditional" guns bring $100-$150, the CVA Mountain rifle often sells in the mid to upper $200 range.
 
Actually I wanted a CVA Mountain Rifle way back when, but when I was in the market they were using that "genuine American hardwood". If it had been a decent maple or something, I would have bought one.
 
I bought a used CVA mountain rifle back in 1982.It was my first muzzleloader and I had to read a book to find out how to load it.It was .50 cal. and made from a kit by a man who shot a deer with it his first time out,but then lost his job and sold it to a dealer who sold it to me for a $110.00.The barrel says made in the USA and is percussion.I shot this gun for quite a few years,but started having problems with the hammer coming back to half cock each time I shot it.Kind of unnerving.No one can seem to figure what causes it.Tried a new lock,new nipple,etc.,The last theory I got is that the spring is too weak,including the one on the new lock.When I scrape some more spending money together,I'm going to try that.I have bought other rifles since,but I have never liked one as much as that one.Just more accurate and nice handling,and if you missed,you knew it was your fault.
 
Indiana,
Re: hammer blow-back
:m2c:How much powder are you loading down the barrel? Heavy loads along with a weak mainspring and/or a nipple with an excessively large vent hole can account for the blowback. Uncle Mike's makes a nipple with side vents to divert blowback gases. (You can also so modify the nipple yourself.) This alone may help alleviate the problem. Dixie Gun Works stocks replacement mainsprings for CVA locks.
I have a CVA Mountain Rifle I picked up about 7 years ago at the Allentown (PA) show for $85. It was an early one from the '70s that had the pointed-end capbox (as opposed to the later model that had the more rounded capbox). I tuned the lock and replaced & adjusted the sights and it's been a real tack driver for me.
 
thehorn

I am using Uncle Mikes hotshot that has the vent in it.The charge that I was using was 50 grains of 3f.It is the only load that I ever used in the gun,and it was fine for a long time until it started to blow back on me.Thats why some people think that over time the spring just got weak.As far as the new lock is concerned,maybe the spring just wasn't that strong to begin with.Thanks for the help anyway,and if you or anyone else has any more thoughts,I'll be glad to hear them.It's a sweet shootig gun,and like you said,it's a tack driver.Thanks
 
Try putting a wedge of wood in the bend of the mainspring and then try it. If the hammer doesn't come back, then the spring is most likely weak.
 
I wouldn't recommend putting a wedge into the mainspring.
IMO If you reduce the length of the flexable part of the spring (by preventing its bending because of the wooden wedge), it has a good chanch of breaking.
Of course, then you will have a good reason to buy another spring, if you can find one. :shocking:
 
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