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Inlay and decoration in the pre flintlock era

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This type of work is far faarrrrrr beyond my ability, but after my recent read through the Graz book, I was wondering if there was a good place to learn about bone inlay in this period.

One particular question I had, was how was inlay done on ball pommels? I have a general understanding of how it’s done on a flat surface.
B0060E4C-6FF0-4743-85A2-5D63ED9A9F2A.jpeg

292F7164-5809-40AC-8375-5F2811626897.jpeg

Additionally, how was it done when almost the entire surface is inlayed? Is it basically a shell made out of the inlay material?
A1E96BDA-A6F2-431A-8641-B81F5ABC811A.jpeg
 
You have an enquiring mind John, and you are on the right track.
In the latter case, large areas are covered with bone (or whatever ) panels, which are then scrimshawed or engraved.
Curved surfaces are much harder to do, but can be done with a bit more care! Metal inlays want to quilt on curved parts. The rounder inlays are not really a problem.
Inlays are quite deep, an eighth or deeper, and the round 'dots' are made like a dowel and hammered into drilled holes.
They go deep enough to stay put I find!
I suppose some of mine go more then 3/16" deep.
This is all I know about it, what I have found from doing it. Not an expert, so others can maybe help more!
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The cross-hatched background is quite common in the 16th century.
I’ve noticed that there is very consistent art style to guns of this period. Very interesting how tightly woven guns, fashion, and art were. I guess it makes sense when the same people were paying for all three.
 
You have an enquiring mind John, and you are on the right track.
In the latter case, large areas are covered with bone (or whatever ) panels, which are then scrimshawed or engraved.
Curved surfaces are much harder to do, but can be done with a bit more care! Metal inlays want to quilt on curved parts. The rounder inlays are not really a problem.
Inlays are quite deep, an eighth or deeper, and the round 'dots' are made like a dowel and hammered into drilled holes.
They go deep enough to stay put I find!
I suppose some of mine go more then 3/16" deep.
This is all I know about it, what I have found from doing it. Not an expert, so others can maybe help more!View attachment 201048View attachment 201049View attachment 201050View attachment 201051
That is some very impressive scrimshaw, thanks for sharing!

What you said makes sense, particularly the dots actually being dowel shaped.
 
In Michael's collection there was an original hand gonne from the 15th century that still retained it's original wood tiller. The tiller had simple punch marks surrounding it for decoration. And I remember Michael commenting that he thought it interesting that people attempted to decorate their gun stocks even this far back in time.

Rick
 
There is another type of decoration I have come across on wheellock pistols. It’s a very consistent raised bump pattern over an entire gun, in addition to some inlay.

DABCD08A-68DA-4CC1-9C4F-AC84B86E4E1F.jpeg

2E21F86D-F839-4D31-B66D-3370EF3F0834.jpeg

Apologies for the poor photos, glossy book pages are hard to photograph.

Royal Armouries example:
Wheellock pistol Marked HR - Royal Armouries collections

Does anyone know how this type of texture is made?
 
In Michael's collection there was an original hand gonne from the 15th century that still retained it's original wood tiller. The tiller had simple punch marks surrounding it for decoration.
As you read this I am completing a copy of this one right now! I fashioned different shaped tips for a ‘wood burner’ tool and that’s what I’m using to make the design.

5754EBDC-CFE1-4EB9-80FA-7E0B19632F49.jpeg
 
Also in decoration, we must not forget the painted designs we see from the earliest times. Coats of arms, borders, green painted stocks, etc. etc!
The paint is a fun one. Months ago I made that post about black paint and I have now seen many examples backing it up as historical. Recently, I have also come across a bunch of wheellocks (presumably on other types too) with a reddish finish to their stocks that I think Rudyard is one of the few makers that properly replicates, from what I have briefly seen around.

With fashion in this period, loud and gaudy colors (particularly amongst Catholics) was the trend of the day. When I was researching period wood furniture for answers on wood finish, most sources pointed towards painting as the norm, often with similar colors.
 
You are correct on fashion,
Michael once told me we see the same fashion in everything in early Tudor period. Short thick guns, candlesticks,...even chimney pots all followed the same trend!
I think we have rather neglected the painted finish these days!

So it is maybe time to go back through all the old Michael posts and look for paint!
 
You are correct on fashion,
Michael once told me we see the same fashion in everything in early Tudor period. Short thick guns, candlesticks,...even chimney pots all followed the same trend!
I think we have rather neglected the painted finish these days!

So it is maybe time to go back through all the old Michael posts and look for paint!
And not just for deliberate decoration! He had that great thread about how many barrels in the 1500s had that red lead paint on them to prevent rust.

Its a bummer brass/bronze barrels are so impractical to make now because they are also such a key part of the decoration and aesthetic of the era.
 
Hi Flint

YES!! That's the one. LOL Thanks for the photos. Had no idea you are making a copy. Can't wait to see it. Amazing that tiller survived that long without becoming damaged.

Rick
 
Another question around 15th-17th century gun decoration, is how was blueing done? I am really only familiar with chemical bluing.
Blued barrel:
CD157C3D-A817-4105-8AB2-D9F690632E0B.jpeg

The majority of the puffer pistols in the Graz Armory have blued lockplates (shown in the picture further up), with the the edges left in the white. Blued lockplates for rifles seem to be fairly common too.
 
One form was charcoal, a deep and nearly black blue at times John.
Fire bluing is lighter and brilliant, even painful to look at in sunlight, But Was used on barrels.
Would the charcoal allow targeted bluing, or would a gunsmith wear away parts of the locks that they wanted bright, after the blued the whole thing? The book claims that the bright edges were a deliberate style decision and not usage wear over time.
 

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