Inlay and stain/finish - what order ?

[mikemeteor]

Beginner's question:
got my star inlayed in my cherry Dickert cheekpiece.
(stock is upside-down here, in case that's not clear from picture)

I'd almost like to pin it in place before staining, so any subsequent wood swelling would tighten the wood right around it.

Is it ever done in this order, or is it always stain first, then secure inlay ?
Pros ? Cons ?
as always, thanks !

 

[fort fireman]

I'm a beginner to but I would think you shouldn't have a problem securing the inlay first. when you stain the stock, just be careful to get the stain off the metal before it dries or cut out some masking tape to put over it. Then when the stain dries carefully polish the inlay back up and your good to go. However there are alot more experienced out there that may disagree. I'd like to know to because my next build will probably have an inlay or two also. Andy

 

[fort fireman]

Great job on the inlay by the way!!

 

[dodgecummins01]

I would say attach it, after all you wouldn't remove wire inlays before staining!
Are you sure that star didn't grow in that piece of wood! Nice job of fitting!!! :thumbsup:

 

[mikemeteor]

thanks for the kind words.

I couldn't get it to sit flush for the life of me, then I got a little impatient and put a small piece of wood on it and tapped it firmly and it sunk right in nicely.
Not sure that's the proper procedure :shocked2: .
I guess the same order - secure inlay then stain - goes for the patchbox..... ?

 

[Roy]

I always pin down the inlays and then stain and finish.. I can always get the finish off of the inlays afterwards.. Depending on the patchbox I may or may not remove it for the finish..

 

[Jaeger]

I'm also finishing up a Dickert, and your question is timely for me. I assume if you are using an oil-based stain, staining after you mount the inlay is okay, but I'm staining with aqua fortis, which is actually nitric acid. I think I will mount the inlay AFTER staining, but I'd love to hear thoughts on this subject.

Nice job on your inlay....I hope mine looks as good.

 

[Roy]

I do the same thing with AF.. if you do not leave the inlays in you have a better possibility of scorching the sharp edges that would be left around the inlays when you apply heat. :v

 

[Zonie]

I sure hope he isn't using an oil-based stain.

Of course it is just my opinion but:
NEVER USE AN OIL BASE STAIN ON ANY GUNSTOCK.

That's about as simple as I can say it.

Oil base stains are manure and they all, maybe are good enough for plywood bookcases and pine shelves if you don't really like them. Any better quality piece of furniture or gunstock deserves better.

If one is not going to use Aqua-fortis, (I don't) or one of the rusty vinegar stains, then USE AN ALCOHOL BASED STAIN ONLY.

 

[mikemeteor]

thanks Zonie.
NO oil-based stain for me - I have come to know that as Zonie's Law !
I'm planning on using some combo of Behlen Solar Lux product.

 

[Zonie]

That's good stuff.

You might want to thin it just a bit before using it, not that it really needs thinning.

The idea behind thinning it is, "It's easy to add another coat after it has dried if it isn't dark enough for you."

That way you can "sneak up" on just the color your after.

Just remember, the color and darkness when the stain is still wet is the color and darkness it will be after you've applied the finishing oil coats.
Before applying the finishing oil, the stained, dried wood will look much lighter than it will actually be. :grin:

"Zonies Law"! Now I've heard everything. :rotf:

 

[Black Hand]

I'm also finishing up a Dickert, and your question is timely for me. I assume if you are using an oil-based stain, staining after you mount the inlay is okay, but I'm staining with aqua fortis, which is actually nitric acid. I think I will mount the inlay AFTER staining, but I'd love to hear thoughts on this subject.

Nice job on your inlay....I hope mine looks as good.

Inlay everything, do your finish sanding, THEN stain (yes, even aqua fortis), neutralize (if you wish) and finish.

And Aqua fortis is not only nitric acid, but nitric acid reacted with iron. It won't eat your inlays.....