• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Inlaying designs in wood

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mongo40

40 Cal.
Joined
Feb 20, 2009
Messages
223
Reaction score
2
What technique do you guys use to inlay a silver design into a gunstock such as a hunters star or weeping heart, chisels, exacto knife ????
Thanks
 
There are waaaaaaaay more experienced guys on here but I'll get this started. This process is what I do for basically inletting anything into wood.

I outline the object with a mechanical pencil. The type that has a tiny little lead.

Then I cut inside of the line with my Exacto knife.

Then I remove the bulk of the wood with the appropriate chisel. Clean up the edges with the exacto and also by using the chisel as a scraper.

If it is just a thin piece for an inlay I don't use any inletting black. I just fit it in and look real closely for the places it is rubbing. Remove those spots as needed till it fits.

Remember to file a bit of a draft angle on your inlay. Just a few degrees is plenty.

Now, if you are asking about a design using silver inlay wire, I use two double sided chisels (1/8 inch and 1/16 inch) and the few gouges I have for the curves. I mostly use the chisels though.
 
thanks Capt Fred I was just going to do it with the exacto as you described, your the second to tell me of doing it that way, just a small hunters star, nothing elaborate, all straight lines. Thanks again.
Chris
 
Beginners try to cut a straight, up and down, 90 degree "wall" to the inlay. On rounded surface- heck-- on flat surfaces-- this is very difficult to do. its important to file that slight " draft" or angle going inward toward the underside of your inlay. Then as you are removing the wood from the center of the stock for the inlay and approaching the edges, you can use that same bevel or " draft" as you get near the pencil line.

My only advice is don't try to hurry this work, and don't work on it when you are tired, or your hands are tired.

If you have a large lighted magnifying glass that you can use, use it! If you don't, consider buying one. They are not that expensive these days, and You find them being used for all kinds of purposes. I use them when trying to read road maps, for instance. Otherwise, that blue ink they are so fond of using is very difficult to see and read.
 
That is a terrific tutorial, for sure.

I would only remind the readers that " German Silver" has NO Silver in it. German Silver is substantially harder than pure Silver, which is much more difficult to work with. That is the reason German Silver is sold in ribbons for this kind of work( that workability and the price, of course!) German Silver is comprised of Copper and Nickel, and sometimes a small amount of zinc. It is the nickel that give the metal its " Silver" color.
 
I don't know how PC it is but I think those marquetry quiltwork-like hunters stars on some German Jaeger rifles I have seen look real nice. Usually exotic woods like ebony etc. and or bone are used but... somtimes tigereye quartz has the same visual effect as tiger striped wood. It's an optical illusion. This is probably way to fancy but an idea to ponder.
:hmm:
 
I've found that once you have the inlay bent to the contour of the wood, use super glue to hold it in place while you scribe around the edge with an exacto knife. Once you have scribed around the edge of the draft, a light tap with a brass hammer or a piece of wood and the inlay will come right loose. This will keep the inlay from moving around while you are scribing around the edge.

Be sure to pin the inlay in place. Glue just won't hold. The differential expansion of the metal and wood will eventually cause it to break loose, even if you use epoxy.
 
paulvallandigham said:
That is a terrific tutorial, for sure.

I would only remind the readers that " German Silver" has NO Silver in it. German Silver is substantially harder than pure Silver, which is much more difficult to work with. That is the reason German Silver is sold in ribbons for this kind of work( that workability and the price, of course!) German Silver is comprised of Copper and Nickel, and sometimes a small amount of zinc. It is the nickel that give the metal its " Silver" color.

Paul, That's why they used to call Nickel Silver, White Copper! JMTCW

Rick
 

Latest posts

Back
Top