inlaying wire
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:thumbsup: Wire is not round ,it is flat. a combination of chisels is used to cut the groove. The flat material ,silver or brass is set into the design by tapping it in and butt joining on the connections . wet to swell wood when done and then file and sand to the wood level , there are lots of books covering this, see the Gunsmith of Grenville county's excellent book for everything about bulding real flintlocks.
When I first statred inlaying wire, I cut it in with a knife, Did a fair job of it but had to go onto the chisel method. Made them out of hacksaw blades. They are tiny. They do a much better job. Lay out your design with a fine point pencil, keep your radius s smooth and flowing. when blending in joints when another wire branches off another you have to bevel an edge on the offshooting wire so they appear to come from one piece of wire. Try not to have a tiny piece when you have cross overs and overlaying loops. Also you have to prebend the wire and cut it to length prior to installing it. A small pair of dykes and a small pair of needlenose pliers a good for this. I picked up a small set at Sears. They're about 3" or 4" long. Sometimes you as you are inletting the wire get the dykes on the wire and cut it to the proper length before you inlett it. You'll see as you progress with the installation. ........George F.
First off, it really isn't wire, it's ribbon.
The tools required is a broken hack saw blade, an ability to draw smooth curves (some french curves available at a Office supply store are very handy), a fine toothed file, a wooden or metal rod, a soft #2 pencil, a good eraser and optional, some white wood glue.
The ribbon comes in Brass, German Silver and Sterling Silver. It's available from TOTW, Dixie and MBS. It usually comes in two thicknesses which of course can both be used on the same gun to add contrast and emphasis to the design.
Buy more than you think you'll need, it's cheap.
Take your time sketching the pattern. Erase what you don't like and redraw it. (I've been known to redraw these things many times before it finally looked good to me).
Break the hack saw blade off into pieces about 2 1/2-3 inches long. Grind the teeth off and the ends square (or slightly curved on the hammer end).
On the cutting end, grind back both sides about 1/4 inch along the length, leaving a central blade about 1/8 wide. It will look kinda like )_(
While your at it, make another one leaving about 1/4 inch for the central blade. (I also made one with a 1/16 inch blade but seldom use it except in the tightest curles). The 1/4 blade is good for long fairly straight areas.
Grind or stone the remaining blade tip so it is a sharp knife edge.
To prepare the ribbon, I like to trap the flat part of it between the corner or edge of the fine toothed file and a piece of wood or metal dowel. Then pull it thru this leaving little scribed lines down both sides. These will help trap the ribbon after it is installed.
To use the blade tools you've made put on your good glasses and position the blade on the drawn line. Use the metal or wood rod as a hammer and drive the blade straight down into the wood about 1/8 inch. (Of course, you can use a real hammer but go easy with it.) All cuts need to be perpenducular to the surface of the stock. (The depth needs to be a little deeper than the width of the ribbon).
Remove the tool and locate it on the line again so it overlaps the first piercing and pound it down in.
Keep going until the pattern is pierced.
I find it to be a good idea to go over the pattern twice to make sure there isn't an area down in the grooves that isn't connected. If this happens, the ribbon will not go into the groove freely and you will end up mashing the ribbon (and wood) when you insert it.
Place the ribbon at one end of a cut and use the metal or wood rod to start it into the groove.
Continue pushing the ribbon into the groove, bending it as needed as you go along to line up with the groove.
After an inch or so is started, I go back and, using the rod like a roller, push the ribbon deeper into the groove to hold it in place. Keep going until you get to the end of the groove, then work the ribbon down with the rod, rolling along, so it is flush (or almost flush) with the surface.
Some folks like to put a little white glue into the groove before installing the ribbon but that is up to you. IMO It does help anchor the ribbon.
After all of the ribbon is installed, wet the wood in the area. IMO, the wetter, the better.
This wetting causes the wood to relax and to return to it's original position. Of course, it cannot really return because the ribbon is in the way so the result is a very tight pinch on the sides of the ribbon. This is what keeps the ribbon in place.
The little grooves the file made on the sides of the ribbon just give the wood something rough to bite on which also keeps the ribbon from coming loose.
After the ribbon is installed, file it flush with the wood. If the ribbon is below the surface of the wood, sand the wood down flush with the ribbon but be careful. It is easy to create hollow or low areas in the wood adjacent to the wire and that looks somewhat frinkled.
On your first projects, keep it simple. Soon you will be getting into crossing shapes which requre precision cutting to avoid gaps. Often, these overlapping or crossing areas have the ends of the ribbon filed to a matching angle so there is no visable gap at all. This makes the ribbon seem to pass right thru another piece of ribbon.
You will also find that tight spirals are a real pain to do but they look nice when they are done right.
Another thing to remember. Because your will be driving the wire down into the wood, and this makes the wood want to move sideways, very small areas where the ribbon crosses another ribbon may chip out. IMO, it's best to keep crossings so they are not less than 45 degrees to the other ribbon, so now you have been forwarned.
I have seen some wire inlay which is so incredibly close to other wires it doesn't seem possible that the artist could do what he did without breaking or chipping the wood. I have no idea of how that is done.
Wire inlays add a lot to the looks of a gun and are much easier to do than actually carving in grooves and other fancy carvings.
Have fun!!
The tools required is a broken hack saw blade, an ability to draw smooth curves (some french curves available at a Office supply store are very handy), a fine toothed file, a wooden or metal rod, a soft #2 pencil, a good eraser and optional, some white wood glue.
The ribbon comes in Brass, German Silver and Sterling Silver. It's available from TOTW, Dixie and MBS. It usually comes in two thicknesses which of course can both be used on the same gun to add contrast and emphasis to the design.
Buy more than you think you'll need, it's cheap.
Take your time sketching the pattern. Erase what you don't like and redraw it. (I've been known to redraw these things many times before it finally looked good to me).
Break the hack saw blade off into pieces about 2 1/2-3 inches long. Grind the teeth off and the ends square (or slightly curved on the hammer end).
On the cutting end, grind back both sides about 1/4 inch along the length, leaving a central blade about 1/8 wide. It will look kinda like )_(
While your at it, make another one leaving about 1/4 inch for the central blade. (I also made one with a 1/16 inch blade but seldom use it except in the tightest curles). The 1/4 blade is good for long fairly straight areas.
Grind or stone the remaining blade tip so it is a sharp knife edge.
To prepare the ribbon, I like to trap the flat part of it between the corner or edge of the fine toothed file and a piece of wood or metal dowel. Then pull it thru this leaving little scribed lines down both sides. These will help trap the ribbon after it is installed.
To use the blade tools you've made put on your good glasses and position the blade on the drawn line. Use the metal or wood rod as a hammer and drive the blade straight down into the wood about 1/8 inch. (Of course, you can use a real hammer but go easy with it.) All cuts need to be perpenducular to the surface of the stock. (The depth needs to be a little deeper than the width of the ribbon).
Remove the tool and locate it on the line again so it overlaps the first piercing and pound it down in.
Keep going until the pattern is pierced.
I find it to be a good idea to go over the pattern twice to make sure there isn't an area down in the grooves that isn't connected. If this happens, the ribbon will not go into the groove freely and you will end up mashing the ribbon (and wood) when you insert it.
Place the ribbon at one end of a cut and use the metal or wood rod to start it into the groove.
Continue pushing the ribbon into the groove, bending it as needed as you go along to line up with the groove.
After an inch or so is started, I go back and, using the rod like a roller, push the ribbon deeper into the groove to hold it in place. Keep going until you get to the end of the groove, then work the ribbon down with the rod, rolling along, so it is flush (or almost flush) with the surface.
Some folks like to put a little white glue into the groove before installing the ribbon but that is up to you. IMO It does help anchor the ribbon.
After all of the ribbon is installed, wet the wood in the area. IMO, the wetter, the better.
This wetting causes the wood to relax and to return to it's original position. Of course, it cannot really return because the ribbon is in the way so the result is a very tight pinch on the sides of the ribbon. This is what keeps the ribbon in place.
The little grooves the file made on the sides of the ribbon just give the wood something rough to bite on which also keeps the ribbon from coming loose.
After the ribbon is installed, file it flush with the wood. If the ribbon is below the surface of the wood, sand the wood down flush with the ribbon but be careful. It is easy to create hollow or low areas in the wood adjacent to the wire and that looks somewhat frinkled.
On your first projects, keep it simple. Soon you will be getting into crossing shapes which requre precision cutting to avoid gaps. Often, these overlapping or crossing areas have the ends of the ribbon filed to a matching angle so there is no visable gap at all. This makes the ribbon seem to pass right thru another piece of ribbon.
You will also find that tight spirals are a real pain to do but they look nice when they are done right.
Another thing to remember. Because your will be driving the wire down into the wood, and this makes the wood want to move sideways, very small areas where the ribbon crosses another ribbon may chip out. IMO, it's best to keep crossings so they are not less than 45 degrees to the other ribbon, so now you have been forwarned.
I have seen some wire inlay which is so incredibly close to other wires it doesn't seem possible that the artist could do what he did without breaking or chipping the wood. I have no idea of how that is done.
Wire inlays add a lot to the looks of a gun and are much easier to do than actually carving in grooves and other fancy carvings.
Have fun!!
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Zonie-
Greetings from the GFN (Great Frozen North)! Raeding your discussion about wire inlays , I notice that you use hacksaw blades, as I do. My first (and so far only) attempt with this led to me using (i.e. making) four to six of these little gadgets, since the blade where sharpened would bend, chip, or otherwise just plain wear out after a fairly short period of use.
Is this just "cost of doing business," or am I missing a step, using them improperly, or making them wrong?
Thanks for your continued patience.
MSW
Greetings from the GFN (Great Frozen North)! Raeding your discussion about wire inlays , I notice that you use hacksaw blades, as I do. My first (and so far only) attempt with this led to me using (i.e. making) four to six of these little gadgets, since the blade where sharpened would bend, chip, or otherwise just plain wear out after a fairly short period of use.
Is this just "cost of doing business," or am I missing a step, using them improperly, or making them wrong?
Thanks for your continued patience.
MSW
MSW: I would suggest you give up on using ironwood for your stocks. I know I have ruined several chainsaw chains trying to cut it.
Seriously, I haven't had any problem with the hacksaw blade tools becoming dull but maybe I'm just lucky so far.
If it really is a problem for you perhaps you might want to heat treat the tools? Typically, a hacksaw blade is only fully hardned on the teeth, the remainder of the blade being somewhat soft.
To heat treat the tool, bring it up to a bright red heat and quench it in oil. Remove the scale and brighten it up with some silicone carbide (black) sandpaper. Then bake it in the oven at 440 degrees F. for 1/2 hour. This should bring it to a yellow/straw color which is hard but not brittle.
Seriously, I haven't had any problem with the hacksaw blade tools becoming dull but maybe I'm just lucky so far.
If it really is a problem for you perhaps you might want to heat treat the tools? Typically, a hacksaw blade is only fully hardned on the teeth, the remainder of the blade being somewhat soft.
To heat treat the tool, bring it up to a bright red heat and quench it in oil. Remove the scale and brighten it up with some silicone carbide (black) sandpaper. Then bake it in the oven at 440 degrees F. for 1/2 hour. This should bring it to a yellow/straw color which is hard but not brittle.
Bountyhunter
50 Cal.
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Would any of you guys be able to get some pictures of these tools and post them? If possible a picture of the cutting tool end and how it is shaped? Many thanks.
Bill
Bill
Zonie
Great post - says it all
Simple and to the point.
Question ?
What in the world is "frinkled" ?
I play a lot of scrabble with the Mrs. and thought I might be on to something here.
or can this be desert :bull:
Hmmmmmmm :rotf:
Sorry to tease ya - It IS a great post
P.S.
I find the Hack saw blade tools work better
if you keep the tips polished up. IMHO
Great post - says it all
Simple and to the point.
Question ?
What in the world is "frinkled" ?
I play a lot of scrabble with the Mrs. and thought I might be on to something here.
or can this be desert :bull:
Hmmmmmmm :rotf:
Sorry to tease ya - It IS a great post
P.S.
I find the Hack saw blade tools work better
if you keep the tips polished up. IMHO
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I suppose that I am a heretic. I use an exacto knife, but then I don't push it an 1/8" deep. The wire I use is .040, to .050 in width, .010 thick, of pure silver.
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Zonie-
Thanks for the response. Really, I don't use ironwood (at least not for stocks). The inlay is going into lacewood, which feels a bit softer under the knife than maple, but still holds up well. (A softer hardwood, if such is possible?)
Anyway, I'll try hardening the tips of the hacksaw blades. As another in a long string of "you never took shop in High School, did you?" questions, I read somewhere that you can make small tools out of cut nails (the kind with the rectangular cross section used for nailing into mortar between bricks). Somewhere in my box of junk is a small can of these guys. Is it worth a try to limber up my grinding wheel and make a small chisel out iof a cut nail? Should I temper this one, too?
Thanks for your vast knowledge, and your willingness to share it.
MSW
Thanks for the response. Really, I don't use ironwood (at least not for stocks). The inlay is going into lacewood, which feels a bit softer under the knife than maple, but still holds up well. (A softer hardwood, if such is possible?)
Anyway, I'll try hardening the tips of the hacksaw blades. As another in a long string of "you never took shop in High School, did you?" questions, I read somewhere that you can make small tools out of cut nails (the kind with the rectangular cross section used for nailing into mortar between bricks). Somewhere in my box of junk is a small can of these guys. Is it worth a try to limber up my grinding wheel and make a small chisel out iof a cut nail? Should I temper this one, too?
Thanks for your vast knowledge, and your willingness to share it.
MSW
Sure you can make tools out of cut nails.
I believe they are made out of AISI 1095 or something similar. (This is a water hardening steel meaning when you want to harden it it must be heated to a bright red heat and dropped into a glass of water.)
The only thing about using them for making a wire inlay tool is why bother? Hack Saw blades are cheap and are already thin.
Note to those using cut nails for wire inlay tools: The ribbon is very thin and you do not want to create a channel which is so wide that it cannot close back down to pinch the sides of the ribbon. This means the finished tool should not be much (if any) wider than the ribbon is thick. That's a lot of material to hammer or file off to get to the finished thickness.
Frinkled? Frinkle, Frinkling? Good words but I don't know where they came from. The first person I ever heard use it was me and it was used in the past tense.
At the time it seemed to fit the situation as several women were present when we were discussing a manufacturing error.
I doubt that someones wife will let it be used in SCRABBLE.
I believe they are made out of AISI 1095 or something similar. (This is a water hardening steel meaning when you want to harden it it must be heated to a bright red heat and dropped into a glass of water.)
The only thing about using them for making a wire inlay tool is why bother? Hack Saw blades are cheap and are already thin.
Note to those using cut nails for wire inlay tools: The ribbon is very thin and you do not want to create a channel which is so wide that it cannot close back down to pinch the sides of the ribbon. This means the finished tool should not be much (if any) wider than the ribbon is thick. That's a lot of material to hammer or file off to get to the finished thickness.
Frinkled? Frinkle, Frinkling? Good words but I don't know where they came from. The first person I ever heard use it was me and it was used in the past tense.
At the time it seemed to fit the situation as several women were present when we were discussing a manufacturing error.
I doubt that someones wife will let it be used in SCRABBLE.
