Inletting Black

[shortstring]

Stumbled on to an interesting inletting black. I always used Danglers but Klein quit making it after he bought out Homer. What with the "gothic" fad that exists these days you can buy black lipstick. Seems to work great when I don't have enough to fool with a candle.

Paul

 

[rabjr]

A Hurricane lamp without the shade works just fine for in letting.

 

[Allan Gray]

Agreed...

Red lipstick works fine too. Just don't let your wife find you messing with her cosmetics. This can raise a few questions you won't want to deal with...trust me. :shocked2:

I gave up on conventional inlet black. One mishap and the stuff gets everywhere and spreads like a virus. I'm still cleaning up tools with black on them from a spill 2 years ago.

 

[kanati]

Using the paraffin based products like lipstick (I think they are paraffin based anyway), What if it accidentally gets on the stock surface? Will it not seal the wood and prevent stains from penetrating? I was using a soft crayon and then it dawned on me, I may be causing a problem and stopped.

The hurricane lamp soot is a great idea, I'll have to remember that one.

Thanks, Ron

 

[Allan Gray]

Lamp or candle soot also works great and is probably the most traditional material.

As far as wax based material causing problems,I haven't run into any. I suppose if you went hog wild and used too much it might penetrate the wood and create issues with the finish. The idea is to remove the inlet "black" or lipstick, whatever you may be using as you get closer to the final resting place of the inlay. There shouldn't be much, if any residue left behind. The idea is to use as little as possible and go slow and carefully.

I've found that the off-the-shelf inletting black in a jar is very messy and too hard to control due to its mostly liquid state... at least for me.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Ron: Soap and water will remove the soot. Alcohol will remove the grease. It make take several wipes with alcohol soaked rags, but it does come out. BTDT. :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[shortstring]

One thing that doesn't mix with wood is high spot blue that we use in the machine tool corner of the world. Definately will soak in the wood.

 

[kanati]

Layout dye would definitely make a mess. I rarely use that stuff for that very reason, it get's everywhere.


-Ron

 

[bob243]

One thing that doesn't mix with wood is high spot blue that we use in the machine tool corner of the world. Definately will soak in the wood.

It sure does. But I like it for inletting the lock and breech area.

 

[necchi]

Lamp or candle soot also works great and is probably the most traditional material.

Ya, works great, cost is little.

Years ago I tried inletting black and made an awfull mess. I've since learned a litte goes along ways and it works too, but I default too lamp soot, it's easy and I guess I learned to use it.
I got one of the little novelty lamps at the local second hand store that's about 6" tall with about a 1/2 cup bottom and a 3/8" wick, turn it up when I need soot, and down when removing high spots

 

[ohio ramrod]

Most machine shops will have "prussion blue" used to match machined parts. Or any paint shop will have small tubes of tint that work as well. Or you could just scrape the soot off of your dutch oven, frying pan, wood chimney,stove door, etc.

 

[matt denison]

Here's a great trick if you have access to ox/accetaline torches. Run a small flame of accetaline only. It puts out tons of black soot and is good for blacking a complete lock on every surface in 2 seconds. I use this method for troubleshooting a lock inlet problem. Also works great for blacking the full length of a barrel in just a few seconds. Washes up with soap and water.

Another way to get a LOT of soot quickly is to take a length of masking tape, double it back on itself and burn that. Watch your fingers... These methods are quick which is important to me so that the part doesn't have time to heat up like using a candle or lamp.

 

[ron ward]

a mixture of BLO and red chalkbox chalk (like carpenters use for snapping layout lines) mixed to the consistancy of paste works good and isn't messy at all. a damp rag with spirits wipes right off of wood and the metal surfaces. any of the chalkbox chalks will work but be carefull about the colors....the red completely disappears real good on maple when you wipe a little reddish-brown stain on, even on natural finished maple, the blues darken the stain a bit and you might end up with spots in the finish if you're inletting at close to finished condition.
i've been using it for years on soft and hard maple with no problems.

 

[bob243]

I am going to experiment with the oil lamp trick. I went and picked one up this evening, it seems that the only way to get soot out of it is to turn it up until the top of the flame is near the top of the chimney. Is this normal? Should I worry about the glass breaking with it up that high?

 

[BrownBear]

Just take the glass chimney off and run the wick up a little- maybe 1/8" above the base. Lots of soot and less heat than a big flame.

 

[Vaino]

I've been using "Permatex" prussian blue spotting paste since 1978 and have had no problems w/ cleanup and the wood absorption is minimal. Using a solder brush to lightly apply, it goes on fast......Fred

 

[necchi]

Yup, what Brownbear said, just take the glass off.
trim the wick round like a finger tip.

 

[rabjr]

I am going to experiment with the oil lamp trick. I went and picked one up this evening, it seems that the only way to get soot out of it is to turn it up until the top of the flame is near the top of the chimney. Is this normal? Should I worry about the glass breaking with it up that high?

Take the glass chiminey off and just use the bottom. I turn the wick up enough to light it and it just takes a second or two to blacked a part a little longer if your doing the length of a barrel. Then I just turn the wick down enough to put it out. I always wipe the part off before resooting. If you don't it will build up over time.

 

[Capt. Fred]

It sounds like the red chalk works fine for you but personally, I would avoid using it on a gun. The red chalk is designed to be permanent. It has a dye in it that is almost impossible to completely remove from wood. I ran residential construction crews for a couple decades and the rule was pretty universal that once the framng was done the red chalk was banned from the jobsite.

 

[necchi]

I am going to experiment with the oil lamp trick. I went and picked one up this evening, it seems that the only way to get soot out of it is to turn it up until the top of the flame is near the top of the chimney. Is this normal? Should I worry about the glass breaking with it up that high?

Take the glass chiminey off and just use the bottom. I turn the wick up enough to light it and it just takes a second or two to blacked a part a little longer if your doing the length of a barrel. Then I just turn the wick down enough to put it out. I always wipe the part off before resooting. If you don't it will build up over time.

Just another thought this morning, Because of the flame, soot tends to wrap around a part and apply itself to areas where you may not need it.
I keep a damp cloth handy to wipe this soot off, that helps to keep your fingers and areas you don't want marked clean. And like swampy said I'll wipe the entire piece or even wash it after a few cycles to keep the build up in check.
There's just no fast way of doing a good inlet, fit,cut,,fit,cut,,,,fit,cut, put it down and walk away.,,,fit,cut,,,,