inletting for new lock

[AgesofDays]

I had a wild hair and after being conviced by roundball to buy a 58 cal barrel for a t/c renagade I decided I better get a stock and lock ,well found an old renagade stock on ebay the got an l&r lock from totw one of there replacement flintlocks for t/c`s little did I realize that I had to do alittle carving for this replacement lock. well I should have listened to roundball cause he`s never lead me astray before ....but now that I have inletted the lock it looks good without the screw in it but as soon as I put the screw in it one side of the lock pulls up and I cant figure out what I did wrong ,like I said it looks good and flush without the screw in it ....maybe some superglue any help would be much appreciated

 

If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like the inlet may be a little deep at the bolster (where the screw screws into the lock). When you torque down the screw, it is pulling in the lock at the screw location. Somewhere between the screw and the part of the plate that "kicks out" is a higher spot acting sort of like a pivot point. Top goes in, bottom kicks out. To test, take some paper and fold it into a shim. Punch a hole in it and put it on the screw behind the lock. This will keep the lock from pulling in (if indeed this is the problem)Try different thicknesses.

 

lock bolster should be flush against the barrel flat. Lock plate should be square with the flat. The plate should be a tight fit into the inlet with the screw just stabilizing the location without being snugged tight enough to make the plate "kick out".

Sounds like you have already taken out too much wood somewhere. Microbed or acra glass gel are the answers to this problem. JB Weld will work if you coat the lockplate with petroleun jelly as a release agent.

Set up the compound and press the lock in proper position without using the screw. Let it set up properly before you ever install the screw and then only use the screw to keep the lock from falling out, not to pull things together. If properly inlet you should be able to fire the gun without the screw being present (of course it would jar out with the recoil!)

good luck

:m2c:

 

Sounds like you have already taken out too much wood somewhere. Microbed or acra glass gel are the answers to this problem. JB Weld will work if you coat the lockplate with petroleun jelly as a release agent.

Set up the compound and press the lock in proper position without using the screw. Let it set up properly before you ever install the screw

This is the easiest way to remedy the problem if in fact a deep inlet at the bolster is the cause (and that is what it would appear to be). However, I would still use temporary shims behind the lock at the bolster to confirm that this is the cause. If this does turn out to be the case, then use the acra-glass to bed but disassemble the lock and only bed the plate at the bolster. When the AG is set (but not hard), remove the plate and, with a sharp chisel, remove any epoxy that has invaded the tumbler recess. You only need to bed the plate to fix this problem and if you try to bed the lock assembled, there's a good chance that the lock wont come out due to epoxy working its way behind the bridle. :imo:

 

[AgesofDays]

I was wondering about that thankyou for your help....