Inletting trigger

[mlr]

I am putting a Chambers Lancaster flintlock kit together. I am using the Davis double trigger. Is there anything I should look out for when inletting the trigger? Do I take the trigger apart then set the plate in using the precut slot for the actual trigger as the starting point to position it?

Michael

 

[Zonie]

I'm not sure how Chambers cuts their rough trigger mortice but if it is like Pecatonica River does it there is just an undersize slot in both width and length.

I see no need to take the set triggers apart as the clearance slots that will be needed to clear the trigger blades is narrower than the finished slot will be.

As for positioning the set triggers you can usually locate them fore/aft by positioning the adjustment screw between the triggers right below the locks sear arm.

Applying inletting black or lip stick to the blades to see where wood will need to be removed and widen the slot as needed to allow the top of the trigger plate to start sinking down into the wood.

As the plate sinks into the stock keep on using the transfer medium (inletting black, etc) to see what needs to be removed next.

Take care in doing this to keep the trigger plate parallel with the barrel channel. No one likes to see a trigger plate running off in a diagonal direction.

When the outer surface of the trigger plate is flush with, or slightly below the bottom of the stock your done with that part.

 

[mikemeteor]

another thing or two to think about: altho the Chambers kit maybe already have these figured out:

1) is the trigger plate the length (front-to-back) you want/need ? is the front of the inlet going to break into the RR channel ?
2) Is there going to be enough space between the front of the trigger plate and the rear of the RR channel for your trigger guard tab (which you're gonna use to pin in the guard) ?

I guess it's OK to crowd and effectively shorten your RR channel a little bit, but seems like you do lose some anchoring strength if you're in that void with your tab. :hmm:

I've not bought a kit from Jim Chambers before, but I've shortened the trigger plate 4 outta 4 times. And if ya do shorten it, don't forget you gotta leave room in the plate front for the tang bolt insertion - keep thinking 2-3 steps ahead.

The fore-aft positioning Zonie talks about is pretty important - if you get it a little off, you may end up re-inletting, or adding metal to lengthen a trigger blade. Saw that movie myself. If your soldering and heat-treating skills are good, this won't scare you.

 

[TarponStalker]

Pay close attention to what MM and Zonie said here so you don't have the same problem I ran into. I cut some of the front part of the trigger plate off but not enough. After inletting the plate, it was in the way of the T/G tab. I had to cut the plate off another 1/2" which left a gap in the plate mortice that I had to fill. I didn't look far enough ahead. Hopefully I won't make that same mistake again. Another thing to look for is making sure you are far enough forward with your trigger plate so your triggers clear the TG bow when the set trigger pulled (if using set triggers.) I learned a lot in this step.

 

[Capt. Fred]

You also may need to bend the trigger plate slightly to fit the contour of the gun. Be VERY careful how you go about this because it can change the geometry of the moving parts slightly. Try not to ben it where the triggers are. Bend the fore and aft extensions.

In terms of fore and aft location, I do it a little different than Zonie. I posistion them so the adjustment screw is just a little to the rear of the sear arm. I find that posistioning it with the screw directly below the sear arm to give too heavy a pull on the front trigger for my tastes. If you move it back some (1/8"), you get a better pull on the front trigger and I haven't had any troubles with the double set function with this set up.

I guess some of that depends on what you plan on using the gun for. I hunt a lot, and I stalk when I'm in the mood, and I don't want a real heavy pull in situations where I don't have the opportunity to set the triggers.

 

[Old Salt]

I am putting a Chambers Lancaster flintlock kit together. I am using the Davis double trigger. Is there anything I should look out for when inletting the trigger? Do I take the trigger apart then set the plate in using the precut slot for the actual trigger as the starting point to position it?

Michael

I always take the triggers and springs off before inletting the Davis triggers. It seems more simple to start with an uncluttered trigger plate and if I want to file the relief angle for inletting there are no parts in the way.

The pins punch out easily and go back together just as easy. Be careful when you release the small wire spring, it can jump out of sight if you're not careful.