Installing a flashguard on a bridle-less frizzen

[Owenbrau]

Ok, what's the best way to do this? Just to be sure, I tried just installing it like normal, but it didnm't work; if the bolt was loose enough to allow the frizzen to move, the guard moved, and vice verse. My next try has the guard attached to a small strip of brass, which is in turn attached to the frizzen spring bolt. It seems to work, but I worry about how well it will hold up. I still have to either trim the bolt holding the strip to the guard, or get a shorter one, this is just what I had around.

So, any thoughts, ideas?

 

Normally these gizmos are used on locks with bridled frizens and I am assuming that this dog lock is an unbridled example.

It looks like you are doing about the best you can with the equipment in question. I'd do something about that protruding screw, you could hurt yourself!

I, personally, would leave the autrocity off except for the short periods of required use during volly firing. It really clutters up your particular weapon.
:front:

 

[Owenbrau]

I would if I could, Ghost, but the Continental line requires them. It will come off for personal and Pirate shoots.

 

[Tom Curran]

How about a magnet to cling to the flat surface of the lockplate?
Attach the flash guard to the magnet.
Not historically correct.

Mr. full of bright ideas

 

simple replace the frizzen bolt with one that alittle longer . Place the flash guard on the bolt then thread on a nut up against the flash guard . now replace the screw and adjust so that the frizzen play is correct , now tighten the nut up if need be to hold the flash guard
Or leave it slightly loose so you can rotate the guard up and out of the way for ease of loading .
you will have no problem with the frizzen and the gaurd will work properly and stay in place

 

[SAJones]

Made one once that went around the pan itself ("waterproof" lock: fence was free standing). It works, but it's a bit fragile. Can't see the photo well enough to verify the area around the frizzen, but you might try a bit of an "ear" over the frizzen screw to bend over the top of the lock. Only problem is it would interfere w/ wood-to-metal fit. And as I saaw on someone else's (cheap)musket, you could drill & tap the lockplate for a secondary screw for the flash guard. However, your rifle looks so pretty I would hesitate on both these suggestions. Hope someone comes up with a better answer.

 

[LSU TIGER]

Why not make your own from cold rolled sheet steel? You could use a design that combines what you have pictured into one, slim part.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Or from copper water pipe. I made one just by splitting a 1" length of pipe and snipping it to shape, then bending the foot with lineman's pliers, drilling the bolt-hole, and filing all the edges round. Would be easy to start with 2" and have plenty for the extra leg. You could also make a tab to bend in under the pan and another "L" shaped one to lay on top of the anchored section of the frizzen spring so that it couldn't rock forward or backward. 1/4" wide would be plenty.

 

[Owenbrau]

Captchee, I like this idea the best; I'll try that next. Thanks!

 

just make sure you use a good bolt as there is alot of pressure placed on it when the frizzen pops

 

[Owenbrau]

I assume that's why bridled frizzens came in, to support the bolt better. I have cleaned up the prototype I posted above, and will use it this weekend, but I will be looking for a new frizzen bolt for the long term.

hmmm... maybe I can drill a small hole in the bolt, and tap it, and screw the guard into that! Then i could remove it without disassembling the bloody thing!

 

[nirom]

I met a gent the other day who used a spoon. It attaches to the spring bolt like yours, he heated it and bent it upward into position next to the pan then he trimmed the spoon to the shape he wanted. It looked really good. I'll do the same to my fowler but the bowl of the spoon will be shaped like a heart. Good Luck :thumbsup:

 

[Owenbrau]

SPOON!

 

[nirom]

Yes a nice pc. looking spoon it passed all thier inspections too.it seemed a pretty sturdy rig. I would'nt use pewter but silver might do if you can find decent one in brass or stainless even better. I'll do some testing before i trust it around others. it really looked good. trust me. i'll steal one of my wifes spoons, butcher it ,and try to post a pic. :results:

 

[flashpanner]

duct tape? have you tried that yet? Red Green can fabricate anything with it! :crackup:

 

[sherpadoug]

SPOON!

Do I detect a Tick fan?
:thumbsup:

 

[Owenbrau]

I love the Tick!

While in Home Depot, I had a brainstorm, and now I'll be cutting up a 45 degree copper elbow; I'll post a pic when I'm done, probably tonight. But I still love the spoon idea.

 

[Stonecutter]

I very recently had the same problem on a gun I just finished. It was on an L&R lock. I too have the Continental Line issue to deal with. If you refer back to your original picture, what I did was drill and tap a hole in the lock just below the pan (in that blank space you see in your picture. I then took a screw and cut it to the length that would not protude to the inside of the lock. I actually used the same frizzen guard you have on your gun. It works fine and after I browned it, it actually blends in very well with the lock (which I also browned. I'll try to get a picture of it tonight when I get home and post it here. Hope this helps.

Wayne

 

[Owenbrau]

Still needs finishing, but here it is-

 

yep looks like it may work from here . keep filing and sanding tell it looks like it was part of your rifle .
I wonder if it will turn green as it corrodes or if it will just become a dull brown like a Penney :thumbsup: