IRON NITRATE AND HICKORY RAM RODS

[James Kopp]

ANYONE EVER USE IRON NITRATE ON HICKORY? I AM CURIOUS WHAT A RAM ROD WOULD LOOK LIKE...

 

[Eric Krewson]

Like this;

Aqufortis on hickory (the same as iron nitrate). I use it on all of my ramrods, I like a ramrod to disappear under a barrel and not be a focal point of the gun with stripes and such.

On this one I stained the ramrod with aqufortis to the color pictured above then added some red tones to match the stock with diluted Mahagony leather dye.

This one is straight Kibler iron nitrate with no color adjustment, the ramrod matches a TC light colored walnut stock. The picture reminds me that I was going to replace the TC ramrod with all the runout with a Dan Putz flawless ramrod. The gun is a TC Hawken complete overhaul rifle with a drop in GM barrel. Because everything else on the rifle is brass, I changed out the pipes to brass instead of blued steel.

 

[Polecat_Tom]

Like Eric said, I too use it on all of my ramrods.

 

[Nav]

I’ve done it too, but unless it’s the same wood it’s not going to match. It doesn’t get nearly dark enough IMO. I think it looks better just to stain it to match. I say that, but none of mine match...

 

[Eric Krewson]

On a whim I wanted to see what aqufortis did to osage, it turned it black.

 

[rich pierce]

On a whim I wanted to see what aqufortis did to osage, it turned it black.

View attachment 258164

Same result with cherry.

 

[Collie]

I like iron nitrate on a hickory ramrod. It ends up matching a maple stock quite nicely

 

[Col. Batguano]

Like everything in dealing with natural substances, the answer is--it depends on the individual pieces of wood you are using. They're all slightly different. Some stocks and RR's will match perfectly with the same treatment, and some will not. Some times they require slightly different treatments to get there.

You just have to experiment ahead of time with scrap from your stock blank. If you don't have stock scrap, then start with some generic wood from the same species, and then your final experiment in the barrel channel where it won't show.

The trick is in controlling and applying the variables of finishing. For instance, in using AF or FN there are several;
Pre finish preparation and treatment
AF/FN concentration or carrier (alcohol vs water)
Heat treatment (time, temperature)
Neutralization chemicals (ammonia, baking soda, lye)
Post AF/FN treatment (sand paper, steel wool, scraping)
Stain(s)
Post stain treatment (sand paper, steel wool, scraping)
Final finish

The key is to experiment first, and even then when applying things to the final product it's a major "there's no going back now / pucker factor" moment in the build.

 

[The Appalachian]

I do ramrods like I do everything else hickory. Tomahawk handles, knife scales, and such.
I wave a propane torch over them and pop the grain out, then stain to whatever I want. Finish with stock oil and wax.