Is a vent liner OK for a Bessie?

[Larry (Omaha)]

Would it be period correct to install a vent liner in a Pedersoli Brown Bess.
Thanks
Flintlocklar :idunno:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Doesn't matter, once dirty won't show and will not upset the purist hc/pc crowd. But, when installing, be sure nothing is poking inside the breech. The Bess is not a rifle and barrel walls are much thinner than a rifle.

 

[Columbus]

Just curious as to why you'd want to do that. Is the vent corroded, burned out to the point it's too large?

 

[Grenadier1758]

Most of the vents in a brown Bess are larger than the 1/16" we see in a vent liner. Many will be about 3/32". A vent liner may not improve performance.

Why do you want to install a vent liner?

 

[Artificer]

Doesn't matter, once dirty won't show and will not upset the purist hc/pc crowd. But, when installing, be sure nothing is poking inside the breech. The Bess is not a rifle and barrel walls are much thinner than a rifle.

Well, if it is a Stainless Steel Vent liner and the person kept the barrel period "bright" by using period abrasives; I agree it won't show that much at all.

You make a really good point about the barrel wall of a Bess is much thinner than a rifle barrel and I have to say that concerns me about using a Vent Liner in them.

Personally, I would not normally install one in a Bess Barrel for that reason and if I did so, I would only use the barrel/Bess for blank firing from that point on. I may be overly cautious about this, but it seems to me to be the smart thing to err on the side of caution.

To the OP,

Yes, barrel screwed in plugs were used in the period to repair worn out touch holes. George has shown pictures of them on original barrels in other threads.

However, those barrels and plugs were Iron, not steel like modern repro barrels.

Bottom line, I would not do it on a Bess Barrel unless the vent hole was really burned out and then only use the barrel for blank firing.

If you are asking the question just because you think it might be an improvement of some kind, then I would not consider doing it at all. There is no need for a vent liner on a Bess, as a matter of course or improvement.

Gus

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Was thinking about a vent liner, but after cleaning the gun I think fouling is the culprit.
My Bessie is new and has shot about 75 balls down range. I am anal about swabbing, between shots, but ignition has been a problem. (pan to barrel) I am using GOEX FF, .735 RB with .012 cotton patch. Forget the liner, but suggestions would be appreciated. I could use the fouling scraper more often, but what a pain! Please don't tell me not to swab, or swab down to the powder.
Flintlocklar :idunno:

 

[Britsmoothy]

If you're swabbing you are causing damp!
Have you tried just a dry brush if you simply must poke something down the barrel. :thumbsup:

B.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Have you tried just a dry brush

No, what do you suggest, a brass cleaning brush? What about all the gunk that will be pushed down?

Thanks
Larry

 

[david stone]

Vent liners are not really period correct for the vast majority of arms they are put on nowadays. If your musket is new, there might be a burr or something partially blocking your touchhole on the inside. Might be worth opening it up a few thousanths, most replicas have smaller ones than originals. If you want to be closer to period correct, use a .680 ball in a paper cartridge, the way the British army did. I dip the ball ends in molten beeswax. I've never had the bore crud up where loading is too difficult. But of course that wont affect the ignition.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Have you tried just a dry brush

No, what do you suggest, a brass cleaning brush? What about all the gunk that will be pushed down?

Thanks
Larry

Yes, a loose brush, 12g.
The gunk won't be damp though!

To be honest the gunk is not the monster you may be thinking it is.

I just use home made lubricant based on animal and vegetable fats and the fouling stays the same from first to last shot.

B.

 

[Columbus]

This is just me, but I started to get a lot more enjoyment out of my Bess when I quit trying to shoot it like a rifle. Don't know why we take a musket originally designed for volley fire and something to stick a bayonet on and try turn it into something it was never meant to be.

 

[Leatherbark]

I put a 1/4x28 non removable stainless steel one in my Pedersoli. The barrel is not as thin as you would think back at the breech. That touchhole Pedersoli had was at least a 1/4 inch long fuse and I thought I was going to have to attach a post office box to the weapon and wait to have the report of firing mailed back to me it took so long to fire even using 3f. I probably could have opened it up to around 3/32nd inch and cured the problem maybe. It fires fast now for sure.

Bob

 

[Artificer]

This is just me, but I started to get a lot more enjoyment out of my Bess when I quit trying to shoot it like a rifle. Don't know why we take a musket originally designed for volley fire and something to stick a bayonet on and try turn it into something it was never meant to be.

Please don't take this as criticism of you, as it is not intended in any way.

I bought a Brown Bess "Carbine" in the early/mid 70's to use for both competition and to re-enact with as a Continental Marine Sergeant.

I shot in "The Northwest Trade Gun Matches" in local matches and what was then considered the national matches at Friendship. In that match, we shot both round ball and shot. If a smoothbore in that match could not "split the ball on an axe head" and both parts shatter a clay pigeon on each side of the axe head at 15 to 25 yards from the offhand position, you could not win one of those matches.

I used a .735 ball, a thick ticking patch, and 70 grains of FFg powder. Of course I had to use a short starter that was not used in the period. However, I could hit a gallon milk jug at 100 yards 8 to 9 times out of 10 from the offhand and I knew some better shooters who could do it almost every time.

Though I never took a deer with that gun, I used that same load for deer hunting, because I wanted the most accurate load for the most humane hunting.

Gus

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Gus,

I used a .735 ball, a thick ticking patch,

Reading your guns ability is encouraging. What do you consider a "thick" patching? I am using .012 and it is about a tight as I want to go without a hammer, and I do not do hammers. You did not mention what you do/did between shots. I am going to try the brush as I am pretty certain my culprit is damp fouling against the vent.
thanks to all.
Flintlockar :thumbsup:

 

[hunts4deer]

Simple answer is no, it is not period correct to install a liner. If you are reenacting, don't install one.

If you are not a reenactor, then do it if that's what you want.

But I find that picking the touch hole after it is loaded greatly improves ignition. Use a flat-nosed brass wire about the same diameter as the hole and push it all the way into the barrel, crunching into the powder. That makes a big difference in sure ignition.

 

[spudnut]

I shot a bess for years with a big ol touch hole didnt effect acuracy much,it was dead on as long as I did my part

 

[Pukka Bundook]

As above, a big touchhole doesn't hurt anything.

Originally if a touchhole got Too large, then it often had a piece of iron inserted and forge-welded in place, then re-pierced.

Think I used a 5/64" for mine, V reliable.

 

[Many Klatch]

My Pedersoli Bess Carbine was built in the 1980's. Many thousands of rounds have been fired through it. As far as I know only about 100 of them were blanks. The touch hole wallered out to almost 1/8". On the shooting line I could burn guys 20 feet away. I noticed that the gun was starting to hit the targets more or less at random. I put in a new touch hole liner, it made a lot of difference. I had to get used to the Bess hitting higher on the targets and was pleased that it was grouping tighter. Your Bess is new, the touch hole hasn't wallered out yet, leave it alone for the next 5,000 shots.

Now as to your loading. I shoot a .715 ball with a .010 spit patch. I never run a cleaning patch down the bore between shots. I can go 30 shots without too much problem. The steel ramrod will force the ball down past the carbon ring if you bounce it enough times. When it gets to that point, only then is it worth running a couple of spit patches down the bore. Don't over think shooting the Bess. It is a big clunky gun that was meant to work in life or death situations without requiring fiddly work. Learn to work with it. I use 90 grains of 2F and I prime with 2F. It works fine.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Good advice. But with a caveat. I know what you described works for you. But, I would caution that repeated shots without swabbing is asking for trouble, especially with such a large ball. I use a .731" patched ball but treat the Bess like a rifle and swab between every shot/and or use a damp wad behind the ball. That pushes gunk down to an over powder card and permits loading again without difficulty.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Interesting. I believe a large flash hole robs some performance and often wonder if it is why my Bess is a greedy girl!