Is There a Trick to Juicing the Moose Properly?

[Mattole]

I made my first batch of Stumpy's Moose Juice last night, but the oil seems to separate very quickly after it is shaken up - almost instantly in fact.

Have I done something incorrectly? Is there a particular order for mixing the ingredients together? Is there a special ungulate chant that I should have recited during its' preparation? Should I succumb to the ease of Ballistol and accept its unwashed clothing smell instead?

I have dipped and dried the patch material once and dipped it again, using a squeegie to flatten the material and take off the excess juice. I am currently waiting patiently for it to dry, hoping for the best..

As always, thank you.

 

[paulvallandigham]

You can't use just any oil to mix with water.You get the oil separation you describe.

Water soluble oil( from Napa auto supply), or Ballistol will mix with the water. Murphys Oil Soap will help to emulsify oils in water, preventing separation, until the water evaporates.

 

[Zonie]

Last time I looked, the oil used in Stumpy's Moose Juice was Castor Oil (available at drug stores).

Here's the ingredients:


A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16 oz.

Do not substitute other things for what is listed or separation may result.

 

[token tory]

I've not made the moose juice, but have used other water miscible oils with water. (Young's .303 to be exact).
I've always had a little separation in storage & after a while 100% separation. Maybe that is why it's called water miscible rather than water soluble oil?
The cure is to mix vigorously by shaking the bejesus out of it right before use.

Having said that some oils just are 100% incompatible with water so check the contents list.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I have yet to find Castor OIl around here. I suppose I am not looking in the right place. When I was a kid in the 50s, it seemed that all my mother ever had for colds was Castor OIL.

 

[Tumblernotch]

Last time I looked, the oil used in Stumpy's Moose Juice was Castor Oil (available at drug stores).

Here's the ingredients:


A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16 oz.

Do not substitute other things for what is listed or separation may result.

I use this exact recipe and it still will separate after a little while. But I just shake it up before I dip my patching and it works fine.

 

[Swampman]

Or you could use Windex or Olive oil.

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Speaking of Moose.

Check out these guys.
http://www.moose-world.com/moose.html

 

[Stumpkiller]

Start with the alcohol, then add the castor oil. Castor oil is soluable in alcohol. Then add the Murphys and Which Hazel and finally the water.

But yes, it definately has to be shaken just before use.

Any drug store chain carries castor oil. You can also get it at many hobby shops that cater to radio-control and sell glow-fuel engines. That's where I have been getting mine ($4.50 for 16 oz of "Sig Castor Oil").

 

[Tumblernotch]

I have to say Stump, I've been using this stuff for a few years in all my rifles and I likes it!

 

[Stumpkiller]

Thanks for the endorsement.

 

[Mattole]

Yes I followed Stumpy's instructions and used castor oil. I was expecting more dissolving of the oil I guess. When I do shake it up it is dissolved, but some of it returns to globules on the surface pretty quickly.

I dipped my patches and dried them (twice). The patches are not wet, but when I handle them they do leave a sheen of oil on my fingers. Is that the way they are supposed to be?

 

[token tory]

Just a thought bu if you really shake hard(er) & fast(er) for long(er)does that help?
Personally I beat the living daylights out of the stuff I mix, really beating it vigorously. :stir:

 

[Mattole]

I shook pretty hard, but I'll shake even harder next time!

What are the patches supposed to be like if it is done correctly? As I said in my previous post, mine, after dipping and drying twice, leave an oily sheen on my fingers when I handle them.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Mixing the oil with water is to reduce the Amount of oil in the cloth fabric, when the water dries and evaporates. YES, your fabric should still have a film of oil on it, and your fingers should come away from touching the "dried" fabric with oil on the skin.

How much oil is in the fabric is determined by the percentage of the mix of oil to water.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Yep. If your hands are coming away slippery your bore will be, too. I carry my dipped & dried patching in rolls in a little deerskin pouch that is well waxed inside with beeswax.

 

[Mattole]

Thanks, Stumpkiller. I have several kinds of patch material treated with your lube/cleaner and plan to test them with my Investarms Hawken very soon.

I may compare the results with patch material treated with various dilutions of Ballistol as well, just to see if my rifle has a preference for one lube over the other.

 

[Tumblernotch]

I double dip mine like your instructions said. Usually I have a nearly dry patch with just a hint of an oily film. Works just fine. I've noticed that if the humidity is high they will stay a bit moister for longer, but I haven't seen any difference in performance.

 

[Jason Lewis]

nobody has asked how you get the moose to hold still long enough yet! :idunno:

 

[Tumblernotch]

nobody has asked how you get the moose to hold still long enough yet! :idunno:

Believe me brother, it ain't easy! Should only be done by professionals! :grin: