Pretty close, especially for a 1970's era copy of a Sam Hawken later period rifle.
some minor downsides:
1) The front sight is on backwards, it should taper forward.
2) While it was common to use straight barrels on Hawken repros back in the 1970's, only about 5-10% of the existing originals (a few straight and a few swamped), used anything but tapered barrels.
3) Overall the stock is a bit thick and the lockplate surround is a bit too big - both fairly common "mistakes" on repros.
4) A real nitpick, but all known Hawkens have a 1:48" twist. There are IIRC two (maybe just one?) rifleing machines from the original shop and they are 1:48" twist, which was also the most common twist on other American rifled originals, both before and after. But again slower twists were and still are common on many if not most repros.
5) The buttplate edges are a bit too thick/squarish - they should be thinned and a bit rounded over.
6) It's browned - another common "mistake":
per Don Stith who has handled more originals than most, the finish should be as follows:
The few Hawkens in good enough condition to see original barrel finish are blued. (on halfstocks)The barrel, rib and thimbles were blue. (modern)Caustic blue would not be appropriate however.
The breech and tang were cased as well as the lock, butt plate, trigger guard, trigger bar, entry thimble, and nose cap. Not the highly colored case of modern firearms but a mottled grey case that some of the early makers called forge casing. The blue is fairly dark and may be slow rust blue rather than charcoal (NOTE: makes sense since rust blue would have been the more common method for the 1820-1860 period during which the Hawken shop was in business). If doing the rust blue, don't overpolish or you get too bright a color. It is not the deep translucent blue seen on European guns. I usually just do a satin brown followed by boiling in water to duplicate the color (ie slow rust bluing)
