Is this worth the trouble?

[sidtrog]

Was clearing some fallen trees, this one I think a black walnut and this section just said to me "pistol stock". I have never tried to cure, saw and carve such a piece; what do the experts here think? It has been dead and down and dry at least a year, is it likely to be a decent piece of wood?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Looks a bit small, slab it off and be sure not to have the center core in the blank and no sap wood. Then keep in doors for a year before going any farther.

 

[windini]

What Phil said!

But with the added comment that, if it occurred to you to try, then it is definitely worth the effort. Even if this one doesn't work out, you will learn from it and the next one will.

So, if you cut it into a (very) oversized blank, can get a serviceable stock out of the heartwood (dark center), and see no rot, then let it air dry for a year indoors and then get to it!

Note: you might want to wax or prime or otherwise seal the end grain right away. The open ends of the pores will be where the greatest amount of moisture exchange takes place, so that's where many splits and cracks originate. They may appear elsewhere as well, in which case it's an unsuitable piece, but the ends are most prone to 'checking.' You can minimize that by sealing the ends.

 

[Dwight Rutherford]

It appears that Powder Post Beetles have been active. Once slabbed I think you will find their little bore holes throughout the wood.

 

[oldwood]

Once you slab it off each side , pay particular attention to the knot sticking to the rear where the breach will go. The knot might ruin the stock in that area.
In black walnut ,powder post beetles don't seem to live under the bark. I've never seen that in black walnut. A number of 18th century forts , Fort Bedford , were built from black walnut because it doesn't rot , termites don't like it , etc. ................My best to you all...........oldwood

 

[Whughett]

He said “pistol stock”. Pistol grips/scales or a rifle stock with a pistol grip?? . One’s going to get several planks large enough for pistol blanks. If the figure is attractive Id give it a go. If it’s A Colts style percussion revolver the blanks would need to be thicker. As mentioned avoid sap and pith wood.
I’d like to have access to such wood for lathe turning or general small box or case construction

 

[rafterob]

I have a similar piece ready to go in my shed. Mine will have to be a small caliber pistol because of limited width but the shape and grain is great. Now I just need a .22 muzzleloader pistol barrel.

 

[windini]

It appears that Powder Post Beetles have been active. Once slabbed I think you will find their little bore holes throughout the wood.

Yep, upon looking closer, I see the little holes...

Not necessarily a deal killer. If the boreholes aren't too damaging, structure-wise, they might be cool as a unque texture.

Kinda like wormy chestnut, but goes bang!

 

[frankie]

Was clearing some fallen trees, this one I think a black walnut and this section just said to me "pistol stock". I have never tried to cure, saw and carve such a piece; what do the experts here think? It has been dead and down and dry at least a year, is it likely to be a decent piece of wood?View attachment 132030

Too small. You would be getting into the "pith" the center of the tree. That is nasty stuff to get into. You really need to get a trunk that is 24 inches in diameter. You need to get away from the "pith" in the center and the white or tan on the outer part which is the sap wood. 24 inches gives you room to move around positioning your want to be blank.

 

[frankie]

Was clearing some fallen trees, this one I think a black walnut and this section just said to me "pistol stock". I have never tried to cure, saw and carve such a piece; what do the experts here think? It has been dead and down and dry at least a year, is it likely to be a decent piece of wood?View attachment 132030

Another thing. You will want to air dry it for 2 to 3 years depending on the climate you live in. Keep it out of the weather, rain and direct sun light. Get the bark off sooner than later. If you kiln dry it for very long it has a tendency the colors will blend. BUT you can air dry it for about 4 months then kiln dry until you get about 8% humidity. You could leave it in your attic to air dry. Wax or paint the ends only, with a bees wax or paint.

 

[sidtrog]

Lots of great advice, thanks! I was worried about the size and dealing with the core; also whether the knot would be a desirable figure or an impossible grain to work with.