I recently acquired a home built 32 caliber flintlock rifle with a lock made in Spain. I'm having all sorts of problems with and don't know if the original owner did too. While I was working on it, the sear spring broke, which seams to be a problem because I have another one with the same problem. So now I'm dead in the water until I can find or build one. I thought about replacing the lock with a better quality lock but I don't have much room for stock modification. I've looked at L&R, Dixie, Track of the Wolf and various web sites but don't see anything with the same lock plate pattern.
Italian flintlock problems
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Remove the broken spring, take pictures of it next to a ruler from different aspects. Contact Track via their online form with the pictures attached (if it allows you to attach images) and ask if they can recommend a sear spring that might work. Figure that if they have something you'll probably have some fitting to do to make it work. You may have to temper it also.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/contact
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/contact
Oh and I almost forgot. If you know the name of the lock check Numrich, they might have the parts for it. You could also contact them and they might be able to help you find what you need.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/
Check Deer Creek Products in Indiana..
They carry a lot of older parts& pieces…
They carry a lot of older parts& pieces…
Thanks
Please don't tease me fer my spellin', I just washed my hands and can't do a thing with them.
Those Spanish sure know how to make guns that break. Speaking from experience with "unmentionables".
Sam squanch
69 Cal.
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If you are skilled, get the flintlock lock with the oversized plate and carefully fit it to your rifle. Take the original lock and use it as a fishing sinker. You will fix it and something else will break.
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Your thread is titled Italian parts, but you also said Spain in your post. I've bought some nice guns that shot amazing groups from Spain. The early Spanish flintlocks had some issues but were certainly functional, but honestly flintlocks are a whole different animal than a cap lock and need special care to go bang.
It seems all the rage to get the very best tuned lock and place it on a factory made gun, as if no factory lock is good enough.
If you want to spend the money, go for it.
I've broken several gun parts by tinkering, so I know this can happen.
But if you're breaking parts while working on a part, you need to slow down, get the proper tools, lighting, work space, and knowledge.
I know from experience my lap is NOT the place to do gunsmithing.
For further information I would swing over to the Gunsmith workbench here, those guys are fantastic.
It seems all the rage to get the very best tuned lock and place it on a factory made gun, as if no factory lock is good enough.
If you want to spend the money, go for it.
I've broken several gun parts by tinkering, so I know this can happen.
But if you're breaking parts while working on a part, you need to slow down, get the proper tools, lighting, work space, and knowledge.
I know from experience my lap is NOT the place to do gunsmithing.
For further information I would swing over to the Gunsmith workbench here, those guys are fantastic.
I've worked on countless cartridge firearms ranging from cleaning to fitting intricate parts and I can tell you, a dedicated work space is paramount. What's even MORE important is to clean the floor/area BEFORE you begin work. To this very day.... there's a few tiny springs, plungers and screws laying on the floor, in my house, somewhere, just watching me walk by for 20+ years now.
Not wanting to go off topic but they lost my business of some 30 years. They suffered a bad data breach, didn't notify us customers. Only reason I found out was a letter from attorneys suing them wanting to know if I wished to join a class action lawsuit which I think is done now. Still no word from Numrich over it.
I did mysteriously have an occurrence shortly after a purchase that fell within the dates on the letter. Refuse to join the suit as it was from the SDNY. I'm fairly certain they lost so depending on what those crooks do it could bankrupt them.
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Been there... we need to get t-shirts.
I screwed a 1×1 trim piece along the front edge of my bench, then covered the bench with a commercial door mat. That stops most of the rolling and the trim keeps them off the floor.
The old saying still applies. "If it isn't broke we will fix it until it is".
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One more thing. I've had good luck installing or replacing the sear spring by instaling the holding screw until the threads engage one turn. Then push the spring down clockwise, until the notch engages the detent in the lock plate. Often a small screwdriver is needed to raise the bottom of the spring up so it'll turn down. Once the notch fits the detent tighten the screw. You don't want to use pliers, etc. to compress the spring. The lock needs to in a vise or clamp to hold it stationary.
Good luck.
The answer to your problem is to relocate the sear spring screw hole. Cut a new anchor slot and install a sear spring so it contacts the sear at a better angle. Where the new hole and slot go is determined by the size of the new sear spring. Semper Fi.
I found a you-tube video using a piece of a spring paper clip. heated it and bent it to the shape of the old one and re-tempered it. the hole in the clip was the exact same size so I didn't have to worry about it. The author said he was going to post his results on this forum, but I do't find it.
