It's a real struggle

[George Wyman]

I really have a tough time removing the nipple from my GPR caplock after firing. Is there a anti-size compound that may help. Even after I break it loose, It is really tough all the way out. Thanks. George

 

[Howard]

Try choke tube lube. Traditions makes a choke tube/nipple lube that works real well. I use it on the nipples on my caplocks, the breech plugs on my in-lines, and the vent liner on my flinter. Never had any of them seize.

 

[Rebel]

It shouldn't be that hard to get out once you break it loose. It should come out with your fingers. You haven't cross threaded it have you? If not, sounds like you need to clean the threads on the gun and the nipple real good and then put a dab of grease on them before putting it back in. :m2c:

 

[cayugad]

Another little trick I found for getting them out easier is to leave the nipple in place for the first swish or two in the water bath. The hot water seems to wash out the fowling in and around it and it will come out a lot easier then.

If you want to put anti seize on the threads, you can get some at any auto parts store. Slick 50 One Grease, sold at Wal Mart and other auto part stores would last you a life time. It is what in line shooter use sometimes on their breech plugs. To put it on the threads, use a tooth pick and put a little bit on. Be sure you do not cover the vent holes.

Also sometimes when you think your having trouble, look at the angle your holding your nipple wrench at. Sometimes you can actually put force in the wrong place....

good luck.

 

[George Wyman]

Thanks for your reply. Sounds like a plan. I'm off to the auto parts store. George

 

[JackAubrey]

Check to see if the cone was screwed in prior to the cleanout screw.could it be the cleanout screw is acting as a set screw?Yes,I did that w/ mine once.

 

[George Wyman]

BINGO!!! Just took a close look at my cone and cleanout screw and that is indeed the case. That may be the problem. Thanks for your post.

 

[JackAubrey]

I am happy to be of service!Best Regards,Jack

 

[JackAubrey]

Postscriptatchknife,I'm having a thought.You mentioned in your original post you had a tough go all the way out.I assume you were able to remove the cone but w/ great difficulty before discovering the problem.You may wish to inspect the cone threads since it could be possible the clean out screw damaged them upon removal.If so it is an easy and inexpensive fix,just replace the cone.Just something to consider.Jack

 

[longshot47]

Check to see if the cone was screwed in prior to the cleanout screw.could it be the cleanout screw is acting as a set screw?Yes,I did that w/ mine once.

Jack-
I too figured it to be a set screw. To confirm, are ya sayin the screw gets set first -then the nipple is tightened? :huh:

 

[JackAubrey]

Hello Longshot47,Yes,the cone should be seated prior to reinstalling the cleanout screw.Although the cleanout screw is minute it seems to be long enough to extend into the thread channel but not enough to interfere w/ the flame passing through the flash channel,as it were.By seating the cone first the cone itself provides a stop for the cleanout screw.It should be noted when this is done it is only necessary to tighten the cleanout screw until it contacts the cone,undue tightening will make it into a "set screw" and conceiveably damage the threads of the cone,not to mention making removal of the cone problematic.This is what I experienced through trial/error.In the beginning I was concerned that not tightening the cleanout screw "all the way down" would allow it to vibrate loose or even completely out in time.These fears have been baseless.Best Regards,Jack

 

[Zonie]

IMO, the "cleanout screw" should not ever contact the nipple, and it should not be used as a clean out feature.

The primary reason it is in there is to seal off the drilled hole which connects the nipple with the main charge in the barrel. It is a simple way for the manufacturer to make the gun.
Many rifles with Patent Breeches, don't even have this "clean out screw". Cleaning a gun which doesn't have this screw is not a great chore, and cleaning a rifle without removing it, if it is present, is also not a big deal.

If there is concern about the screw loosening if it's not tightened against the nipple, my suggestion is to screw the nipple in first, put a little Lock Tite on the clean out screw and screw it in until it hits the nipple, then back the screw out 1/4 turn, remove the nipple and let it the gun sit until the Lock-Tite hardens.
Then forget it is even there.

As for the nipple threads that might have been damaged from the "clean out screw" running into them, check them closely.
If they look damaged, or the nipple doesn't screw in easily, by all means, buy a new nipple.
Repeatedly installing and removing the damaged nipple will damage the threads in your guns breech block or drum.
Nipples are cheap. New Breech blocks or drums to replace damaged nipple threads is not. :shocking:

 

Regardless of wether the cleanout screw is interfering or not you should use some antisieze on your nipple. Buy it at any autoparts store for about half of what it sells for in a gunshop. And buy the smallest tube they got, as even that will be a lifetime supply. Use it after cleaning, a very, very small amount, it goes a long ways. :m2c: Bill

 

[George Wyman]

Lock-tite in place and forget it is there. Sounds like good advice. That is what I will do. One question. I have been following a thread on the flintlock forum about blown flash hole liners. Is that a similiar concern here with the cleanout screw?

 

[roundball]

Lock-tite in place and forget it is there. Sounds like good advice. That is what I will do. One question. I have been following a thread on the flintlock forum about blown flash hole liners. Is that a similiar concern here with the cleanout screw?

FYI.....TC used to have cleanout screws in the side of the snail on their caplocks then discontinued the practice.

They would always freeze up from internal corrosion due to lack of cleaning & lubing, then somebody would decide to unscrew it and literally break off half of the screw slot.

Then they'd be left with an ugly eyesore, or worse for TC, send it back to TC for them to fix it under warranty.

I had a couple barrels with cleanout screws but always removed, cleaned, lubed them every time I cleaned the rifle...never needed to use the cleanout screw hole as they were originally intended due to my cleaning practice...but I kept them clean and lubed anyway to avoid the future problem listed above if allowed to freeze up...whoever buys any of my used barrels will get them in excellent condition for sure

 

[riarcher]

Guess everyone is a bit different. eace:
Had the same prob. with a kit gun. Filed a bit off the end of the "clean-out screw" until it didn't interfer. Locktighted the bugger in, and filed the head of the screw to remove the slotted section and blended it in with therest of the drum. Came out looking good and almost like a solid drum after browning.
Suppose if I ever needed to remove it, I could drill and "easy-out" it, in all probability though, I'd probably replace the whole drum (get new nipple threads that way) for about $3.00 from TOW. :m2c:

 

[Rat]

Not part of the problem, but it should be mentioned that nipples should tightened down very easy...it's not a bolt holding anything together. Like a sparkplug on an engine, just a very small amount of torque. Do not over-tighten. Easy does it. Be gentle. Be a kinder, gentler, nipple tightener.

Rat

 

[Zonie]

"... Is that a similiar concern here with the cleanout screw?"
______________________________________________________________

Not really.
Because they are small diameter screws, there is not a lot of load on the threads from the pressure from the powder charge.

The only time it could be a concern is if the screw has come loose and backed out so only one or two of the threads are engaged.
If three or more threads are engaged, there should be no concern.