It's me again Margaret

[Mike in FL]

I'm still fretting with my Colonial lock. I followed Jim's advice and disassembled the lock to facilitate filing and fitting into the inlet. (too late I realized disassembly ain't neccessary) Got that done and conquered the other problem I had with the cock screw meeting the threads of the tumbler. In reassembling the lock, the last step is the frizzen screw which I can't seem to line up with the hole. I'm wondering if I need to again remove the main spring. I been fretting with it all day. Maybe I got reassembly steps out of order.

 

[tenngun]

You need to compress the feather spring a little
Your best to use a spring Vice, and while not recommending Vice grips I have done Vice grips a lot
You seriously reduce your chances of break one
You just need an 1/8 of an inch compression

 

[Gun Tramp]

conquered the other problem I had with the cock screw meeting the threads of the tumbler.

How did you resolve it?

 

[Grenadier1758]

@tenngun is correct. The feather spring is pushing on the toe of the frizzen and preventing the hole from easily lining up.

 

[BillyC]

Does the frizzen spring have to go on and be screwed in before the main spring? I can’t remember the order but I do remember even Jim did it backwards in his video. LOL

 

[Eric Krewson]

I use a mainspring vise on the mainspring but vice grips on the frizzen spring. I put leather on the top and bottom of the frizzen spring and start with the vice grips barely compressing spring, if the screw won't start, I adjust the vice grips slightly as many times as it takes until the screw will start.

I learned long ago that ham-fisted gun work is a bad idea, finesse is the word for us red neck gun builders who make do with what we have, and yes, I remove TC mainsprings with needle nose pliers.

 

[ronaldrothb49]

I'm still fretting with my Colonial lock. I followed Jim's advice and disassembled the lock to facilitate filing and fitting into the inlet. (too late I realized disassembly ain't neccessary) Got that done and conquered the other problem I had with the cock screw meeting the threads of the tumbler. In reassembling the lock, the last step is the frizzen screw which I can't seem to line up with the hole. I'm wondering if I need to again remove the main spring. I been fretting with it all day. Maybe I got reassembly steps out of order.

The mainspring has nothing to do with the frizzen. As others pointed out you need to slightly compress the Frizzen spring I use a small C clamp to do that. It won't take much just enough to let the frizzen sit flat on the pan and the screw will go right in.

 

[Mike in FL]

How did you resolve it?

Took some advice here and lightly worked on the tumbler threads

 

[Mike in FL]

Is the frozen spring the one that touches the toe of the frizzen? Is if also called the main spring?

 

[ronaldrothb49]

Is the frozen spring the one that touches the toe of the frizzen? Is if also called the main spring?

The mainspring is on the inside of the lock and operates the tumbler. The frizzen spring rests on the toe of the frizzen. The mainspring has nothing to do with the operation of the frizzen.

 

[Brazos John]

Here is a diagram with labeled parts from L&R Locks.
I still don't know the names of all of the parts, but this should help.

https://lr-rpl.com/diagram-of-parts-flintlock/

Diagram of Parts – Flintlock​

Disassembly/Assembly Instructions with the Durs Egg Flintlock as “Example”.
Tools: 1/4” flat screwdriver / 6” or 8” common pliars / small hammer & center
A vice is handy, but optional

SEQUENCE OF LOCK DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove main spring: a. Hammer must be all the way down. b. Compress any spring only the amount necessary. Overstress will collapse or break it. A pair of pliers is best.
2. Remove stirrup: Take note that it hangs in the “S” position with small end in the tumbler. Any other position can cause damage! (“Z” position for left hand models only.)
3. Remove sear spring.
4. Remove sear screw and sear. (When reinstalling, tighten screw only until contact is made between bridle and sear. Then back up 1/4 turn, so sear will operate freely.)
5. Remove top bridle screw and bridle.
6. To remove the tumbler from the plate:
   1. Take out hammer screw.
   2. Using the jaws of a vise, tum the tumbler side of the plate down, with the vise jaws only far enough apart to allow the tumbler to fit freely. Now, using a punch that will just fit the square hammer hole, tap the tumbler out of the hammer. Caution: Keep track of the fly during this operation!
7. Remove fly from tumbler. (Take note of the fly’s position regarding its beveled edge. It must be reinstalled in the same way.)
8. Remove frizzen spring screw and spring.
9. Remove frizzen pivot screw and frizzen.

LOCK REASSEMBLY

1. Install frizzen and pivot screw.
2. Install frizzen spring and screw.
3. Install fly in tumbler. (Remember the position of the beveled edge.)
4. Install tumbler in plate.
5. Install bridle and top screw.
6. Install sear and sear spring. (Remember about screw tension.)
7. Install stirrup so that it “hangs” properly.
8. Install main spring. (Be sure tumbler is in relaxed position, as if hammer were all the way down.)
9. With pliers or properly adjusted vise grips, tum the hammer pole to the “half cock” position. Press the hammer onto the tumbler. Install the hammer screw. If the hammer is properly tight on the tumbler, it should not be necessary to do more than “finger tighten” the hammer screw.

 

[Mike in FL]

Brazos, THANK YOU!!! That diagram and printed instructions are exactly what I need. That will prove invaluable going forward. I am headed to the work bench now.

 

[Mike in FL]

Thanks all
I got past that issue, thanks to you, and am continuing. Whoever said this was easy didn't know me

 

[Sam squanch]

“ Jim Kibler is coming over there with a live chicken, a weed eater, and a jar of PEACHE PRESERVES!!!!”

 

[Terrier]

... I followed Jim's advice and disassembled the lock to facilitate filing and fitting into the inlet. ...

The way I remember it, disassembling the lock was only predicated if you wanted to brown or black it because you had to be able to wash off the coloring agent to keep it from continuing to corrode where the parts meet. I could be wrong!

 

[Mike in FL]

The way I remember it, disassembling the lock was only predicated if you wanted to brown or black it because you had to be able to wash off the coloring agent to keep it from continuing to corrode where the parts meet. I could be wrong!

Yes, A thing g I learned too late.