I've tried finding them, to no avail.

[noahmercy]

I have tried using the "search" feature to locate the recipes for Stumpkiller's various "moose-fluids". No dice. (Maybe I didn't enter what the confuser wanted, but I honestly couldn't find the info that way.) I thought they were "stickied" in one of the forums, but I can't find them there either. So my plea goes out...could someone please repost the recipes? I'd sure appreciate it.

:thumbsup:

 

[BS]

Just made my first batch, two days ago!

Moose Snot

Moose Snot is a homemade concoction derived from our very own Stumpkiller...

It goes as follows:

Stumpy's Moose Snot (by: Stumpkiller)

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

 

[roundball]

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ubbthreads/dosearch.php

Scroll through these...may be in this list

 

[Rebel]

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ubbthr...true#Post114895

 

[Bob Riegl]

I used the search feature above and came up with this http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/ubbthr...rue#Post150968. It's his recipe for Moose Snot.

 

[noahmercy]

Muchos grassyass, gentlemen! :master: As always, I'm indebted to y'all. If our paths ever cross, you're welcome to a pull on my bottle and a fill from my poke. :thumbsup:

 

Here's an idea: Stumpy, why don't you post both recipes in a single post, lock the thread and make it sticky? Then nobody will have to hunt and dig for it any more (which I have done a few times recently myself).

Please? :applause:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I've thought of that, but have not for three reasons:
1.) "Stickies" plug up a forum and limit what can be viewed on a single peek
B.) I'm modest
III.) It's fun to respond with the following

Stumpy's Moose Milk

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

 

That's cool, it'd just be nice to have a spot where you can go straight to it without hunting it down is all. :redthumb:

 

[Rebel]

Just print it out and file it away somewhere so you don't forget where it is. Course if your mind is like mine is getting to be, ya better file it on the front of the computer screen if you ever want to see it again. ::

 

[HardBall]

I've got a batch of Stumpy's Moose Milk (but haven't tried it yet) and I'm fixing to make a batch of Moose Snot. There's a bee keeper here and they charge $4.50 / lb. for beeswax. I'm not sure how clean it is but I should find out tomorrow.

I don't suppose anyone knows of a better price for beeswax than $4.50 / lb ?

 

[Dale D]

Hey Stumpy, I have three questions about Moose Snot 1)What is the consistency of it when it cools down- liquid,solid, etc.? 2)Is it better to coat the patches when the stuff is melted or after it has cooled down? and 3)What size and type of container is best to keep it in? I was thinking of getting one of those round tins but I'm not sure which size would be best. Thanks for your time. DALE

 

[davy]

Hey Stumpy, I have three questions about Moose Snot 1)What is the consistency of it when it cools down- liquid,solid, etc.? 2)Is it better to coat the patches when the stuff is melted or after it has cooled down? and 3)What size and type of container is best to keep it in? I was thinking of getting one of those round tins but I'm not sure which size would be best. Thanks for your time. DALE

Hola amigo .. here is a picture of a batch of M-Snot I made about 2-3 weeks ago... note that its in an old empty 6 oz plastic container of x-brand lube that I had available ...
I had to use two containers to capture it all ... its only a wax consistancy so will melt at low temps ... I made it up and poured it in while hot ... cooled and hardened in the can ... somewhat to the consistancy of shoe polish ... applied it to a roll of patch material with a butter knife! That method worked fine for me as I cut patches at the muzzle... but you could do them singularly as well I suppose!

Davy

 

[mmarke]

What about minie ball lube??