• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Jack Garner Smoothbore?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
8,234
Reaction score
359
Location
Oregon
I went to Jacks sight today, and then called and talked to him on the phone. He seems like a real nice guy. Now the question. I have the ok from the missus, to go ahead and buy one of Jacks Fowlers. My granddaughter told me that she will chip in $300 as an early birthday/Christmas present. Jack has what he calls a Poorboy style Fowler. He said the only differences in it and one of his regular Fowlers are the wood is plain P maple, it doesn't have an entry thimble, and it has a small Tenn. style lockplate. It does have a buttplate, and all the furniture is steel instead of brass. He sells them for $695 complete. It does have a Large Siler lock and a 42" barrel. So my question is, do any of you have one of Jacks smoothbores, especially a Fowler, and if so, what do you think of it. The price seems like a good one to me. I have seen in the white guns at Early Rustic and TVM, for just about that much or more for some of them. So, what do you all think? Should i go for it? This would most likely be the only custom type gun i am ever able to buy, but i am trying to justify it to myself. Your thoughts and opinions appreciated. Thanks.
 
I unfortunetly know nothing about him, but I'm shopping too. Can you post his website please? Thanks.
 
Rebel, Personally, I've never had any dealings with him. He has a post on the Historical Trekkers board that is worth reading.

I'm going to give you an email address of a guy that makes a quality gun that I would recommend you give some thought too.
My buddy purchased a 62 smoothbore from him about six weeks ago. He took two turkeys with this gun already. Should I decide to purchase another smoothy, Bob is the man I will deal with.

contact Bob at [email protected]

I think you will be pleased :thumbsup:
 
Jack Garner has been around muzzleloaders and gun building for decades. That tells you something.
I've never owned one of his guns, but I have fired a few over the years. Without exception, they were neatly made. The fit and finish were first rate and they were authentic in style. Accurate and well balanced.
There was a mountain rifle that I vividly recollect. I guess this was 25 years ago or so, but it was a beauty. Not a single bit of excess wood on it--it looked like the stock had grown around the barrel. Lovely. I still wish it was for sale. But it isn't and I doubt it ever will be.
 
Although my fowler isn't signed, it is a Jack Garner American fowler. It is a 20 gauge, plain stocked, iron mounted gun. The Large siler lock is very fast and even though the barrel is 42" long, the gun is very light in weight and handles very nicely. This is one of my favorite guns.

fowler.jpg
 
Thanks, that is the same gun i am considering. How does it do with rd. balls? What size ball do you use? Jack said a .600 with a .018 patch would be good. Does it do good with shot? Got any idea what it weighs? Thanks for any more info.
 
My fowler shoots round ball quite well. You will never heve tiny groups, but it will do fine for hunting and general target shooting. I will fare on a competitive basis on some woods walks where the targets are close. Not only does it shoot ball fine, but it will shoot a good load of shot. I would say that the gun weighs about 6 pounds. Its so much nicer to carry than my Brown Bess.

As to specifics, I use a 0.600 round ball. The patching is 0.017" cotton drill cloth. I prefer the tighter weave of the #40 cotton drill to pillow ticking. I will lube with spit or a mixture of bee's wax (1 part) to olive oil (4 parts). I use a powder charge of 65 grains of a mix of 1 part of 2fg and one part of 3fg black powder. This will also work as your pan powder.

For shot, I use the same powder charge and a charge and a half of shot. I will use one over powder card between the powder and the shot and a thin over shot card to hold the shot.

I know I am repeating often given advice here, a fowler is a smoothbore shotgun and shouldn't be shot like a rifle. Your eye is the rear sight and for best shooting, you will see some barrel between the breech and the front sight post. Shoot the gun enough to learn which tooth needs to rest on the comb and how much barrel you need to see. Shoot with both eyes open. At least that works for me.

Fowlers are fun.
 
I have a signed Jack Garner fowler that I bought a week or so ago. Although I have yet to fire it, this piece is outstanding in every detail. It is a very fine gun.

Jack founded Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading (TVM), sold it, then opened Tennessee Valley Manufacturing.

The man obviously knows what he's doing.
 
Thanks for all the inof and load advice. I have had a couple of N.W. Tradeguns, so i know something about shooting smoothbores, but not near enough. :: Don't think ya ever stop learning. Thanks again. Take care.
 
I asked Jack about him selling out to Matt when i talked to him on the phone yesterday. He said he didn't sell the business to Matt, that he just set him up with it. I have heard a lot of good things about Jacks work, as well as Matts. Thanks for the input. Take care.
 
Have two Garner longarms-one a fowler with plain A grade wood and iron mounts. Exactly what I wanted and he is a good man to deal with. Shoots shot fine for a cylinder bore and I was surprized that I can consistently hit a paper plate at 120 feet with.600 patched ball. Very good for me with my eyesight. by the way, I have never seen anyone shape out a stock by hand with no duplicator as fast as Jack. He has done 5 for me in last two yrs using a model I take withme to corinth or using one of his patterns. He can do a stock well from seeing a drawing or photo. I have known him since DGW in the 60's and have foundhim fair and reasonable. He has a modified Bedford pattern with a slight N Miss. accent that handles like a charm. Will be my next purchase from him and this is coming from someone who swore never to build a Bedford. First post as I usually read and keep quiet but had to speak on this. Thanks
 
Thank you for the input. Don't be a stranger. Don't need to lurk in the shadows. Come on up to the fire and join in the conversations. welcome to the camp.
 
I have never heard anything bad about Jacks guns and have seen a few at gun shows, and they were well made, as usuall with stock parts the PC factor is a bit weak but unless you are really into pinning down a gun for an early time frame these guns would probably be a very good deal on a late 18th century type gun, ......you gonna keep this one long enuff for the dust from the packaging peanuts to wear off?? (VBG)
 
TG, well that depends on whether i actually can talk myself into parting with that much money. If i do, and my granddaughter does help me with it for a present, then i figure it would stay in the family. Thanks for the input on his work.
 
Rebel,

You say he is going to put a Siler on your fowler??? Why a Siler? Hmmm. I would do some looking into that. Kind of an odd choice.

CS
 
This is what I was refering to about useing stock parts, many use the Siler on guns which would not have very likely if ever used a lock of that type, the level of PC is the guiding factor here. Some builder were offering French Fusils with Silers and many still offer late flint Southern guns with Silers....most folks don't know the difference and many don't care.
 
Ok CS and TG, enlighten me. what would be an appropriate lock on a Fowler. I really hate to go with an L&R, as i have heard some bad reports on some of their locks. Since i only want it for a hunting gun, and am not into reinacting or being perod correct, i guess it wouldn't really matter which lock he used, but it would be nice to have one that is right for the period. So, what are my choices. Thanks for any input. The only reason i was glad it was a Siler, is i have heard a lot of good reports about the quality of their locks.
 
Back
Top