JB Weld on frizzen to hold powder?

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do as i said above, if there is daylight when the frizzen is closed, stone the Two mating surfaces till they lay flat on each other and that is all you will need. i have done that to several and i can shake them upside down and they do not leak, but hey, have at the JB weld if it turns you on,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
In my opinion, that is a poor way of doing it. If there is such a misfit, then odds are that are other things wrong with it. Personally, I’d send it to a lock smith to have it worked over to fix if JB Weld is required to fill it in. If small enough for a simple wax covering, then I’d go with that.

Again, my opinion….
 
Funny I just watched that video the other day I just built a flintlock pistol that has a little gap and I used a stone to clean up the surfaces and it's a lot better now but I have been thinking about trying that trick but not sure I need to with this gun. I was watching something on the Manton built guns back in the 1800's he was able to waterproof or weatherproof his locks with certain techniques I'll have to look into those again to refresh my memory. I am having a flintlock built at the moment and I'm assuming my builder will make sure there is no gap but since I plan on hunting in nasty weather with it this will be a more important issue when the time comes. Here is a pic of my lock currently I asked my builder that's building my rifle if he thought this gap was a issue and he said if i plan on using it in the shower !
 

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While I appreciate guys experimenting with lube, patches, etc., after a while it becomes way too far from the simple old-time basics. Just for fun, I'd imagine some guy stating that the best patch lube is found in the hydraulic system of a French WW1 tank, and you have to find one in a marsh in Europe. The cloth for the patch has to be cut from the remnants of a virgin's wedding gown from the year the South seceded; the powder must be from a lot ground during an eclipse of the Moon, and the flint must be from a flint quarry nearest to the birthplace of Napoleon. (Not to decry those that are tying various methods, but sometimes it seems to get way afield!);)
 
While I appreciate guys experimenting with lube, patches, etc., after a while it becomes way too far from the simple old-time basics. Just for fun, I'd imagine some guy stating that the best patch lube is found in the hydraulic system of a French WW1 tank, and you have to find one in a marsh in Europe. The cloth for the patch has to be cut from the remnants of a virgin's wedding gown from the year the South seceded; the powder must be from a lot ground during an eclipse of the Moon, and the flint must be from a flint quarry nearest to the birthplace of Napoleon. (Not to decry those that are tying various methods, but sometimes it seems to get way afield!);)
😲 you mean it doesnt ????
 


What’s your opinion on this?

This guy recommends adding JB Weld to the bottom of a frizzen and then filing it back to hold priming powder in place for hunting.

Seems like a good idea, but it’s certainly not traditional.


Overthinking, overkill.

Locks that are not waterproof or have frizzens that are keyed to the pan hold the powder down adequately enough without dropping on some epoxy.

If you really want a water proof ignition, switch to percussion.
 
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN IT BLOWS OUT ?? WORTH YOUR EYES OR THE PERSONS NEXT TO YOU? WHEN I AM PRESIDENT JB WELD AND BOREBUTTER WILL BE OUTLAWED :D. but its on the internet ....gotta be good 😲
For the record I am a great proponent of JB Weld. Just not in the ML world.
 
Seems to me anyone who feels the need for some kind of seal between pan and frizzen is simply too lazy to do a proper job of parts fitment.

That said I also understand that parts wear and the seal between two parts over time can get ragged. But to me that's a time for new parts and NOT some ML band aid.
 
Before JB weld people used tree sap for such projects.
When the trees sap is heated up to a high temperature such as 200° and then allowed to harden it will stay hard until it is exposed to the last temperature it was at such as 200°, and it would work dandy for this in place of the not yet invented JB weld
 
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN IT BLOWS OUT ?? WORTH YOUR EYES OR THE PERSONS NEXT TO YOU? WHEN I AM PRESIDENT JB WELD AND BOREBUTTER WILL BE OUTLAWED :D. but its on the internet ....gotta be good 😲
JB Weld is good. I've been using it (and other epoxies) for over 50 years in a variety of applications to include a 77 Harley with an engine repair some 40 plus years old. But in using it I have noticed a few things.

1. Not all JB Weld steel epoxies are equal. The human needs to know the environment the adhesive will be working in and select the right product. The Marine version does work better in water than the normal version. And I prefer it for a lot of dry or land use.

2. JB Weld will NOT glue everything! As a general rule one should avoid plastics with it. But certain types can be prepped for a good bond. Depending on the final use and stress the bond will see. Again, the human involved needs to know the properties of the product and the pieces being bonded.

3. Whoever invented 5 and 15 minute epoxy should be taken out back and glued to the biggest ant hill you can find. Epoxies of all types need to Soak into the parts for a good bond. That means filling every microscopic nook and cranny of hard materials like steel. And the fibrous grains of things like wood. Or a complete fill of a void when using it as a filler. Those humans who want a quick, cheep fix show their foolishness when they select the faster epoxies.

4. And probably the biggest reason anyone complains about JB is parts prep. You can not clean the gluing surfaces enough for any epoxy. Wiping the grease and oil off with a paper towel and calling it good just shows one to be too ignorant and/or lazy to properly use the product. I always do a final wipe with alcohol on any hard (steel) part. And a tack cloth for fibrous (wood) parts.
 
Seems like another production gun problem.
I just checked my Chamber's lock. Both the pan and frizzen show no daylight through them.
Machining the parts so they fit would be the way to go.
Gluing stuff is just a stop gap measure.
 
Seems like another production gun problem.
I just checked my Chamber's lock. Both the pan and frizzen show no daylight through them.
Machining the parts so they fit would be the way to go.
Gluing stuff is just a stop gap measure.

Most flintlocks casted from parts sets will have some visible dayllight between the frizzen and pan unless they’re water proof, or keyed together between the pan and frizzen or CNC made.

While they can be fit so that there is no daylight, it really just depends on what someone considers acceptable to them.

Most of the problem occurs when drilling and tapping the screw hole, the frizzen will lift in the rear by a few thousands of a mm. This can be overcome with a few techniques, however some locks Just have a poor fit because of their design flaws.

Shimming the pan and frizzen with tinfoil when assembling works very well, as does shouldering the screw to the plate are how I eliminate gaps
 
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