Jukar rifle

[shootera3]

I just got a Jukar rifle,45 cal, full lenght stock. How do I clean properly, how does barrel come apart. I need help.
Thanks, Steve

 

[Many Klatch]

Probably no need to take the barrel out. I have guns that I have shot for 20 years without ever removing the barrel from the stock.

How dirty is the barrel? Is it rusty? Run a patch down the barrel. It will at least need to be oiled before being put away until you shoot it.

Can I assume that it is a percussion instead of a flintlock?

Many Klatch

 

[clint campbell]

I guess alot of people do this different ways so heres my two cents worth. I very seldom take my rifles with full stocks and pined barrels apart.I buy Windex with ammonia mix it half and half with balistol and spritz a patch and clean between shots to keep fouling to a minimum. When Im done I soak a patch and swab the barrel to remove the loose fouling. I then remove the nipple and spray a few shots in the muzzel with it pointing upward and let it soak for a few min. I then run wet patches down the barrel till they come out clean. Next I dry patch the barrel then coat a patch with bore buter and coat it good . I have never had a problem after cleaning this way. Before shooting the next time I will run a patch down the bore before loading to clean out most of the bore butter before shooting. c

 

[Grenadier1758]

You don't need to remove the barrel from the stock to clean your gun. You will want to make sure the cleaning solvents don't get on the stock.

Get a working rod to use to clean the gun. The rod that comes with your rifle will be far more flimsy than a solid brass rod or a 7/16" diameter wood rod. Naturally you need a cleanning jag of the proper diameter and pile of cleaning patches. You may want a brass brush to use in the first pass of scrubbing your gun. Soap and water is one the best solvents for your gun. Actually just water is a great solvent for cleaning black powder. Soap or alcohol will help to remove the oils from the bore. You do want an oil to lubricate the bore following cleaning.

 

[Keppy]

I have a CVA Kentucky 45.cal. and I don't take the barrel out of the stock to clean. I took and old nipple and drilled it out then I attached a small hose that I bought at the auto shop. I slipped it over the nipple and the other end goes in a bottle or pal of hot water. Works like a syphon with a tight patch. Good luck

 

[boar]

Like the guys said you don't have to take barrel off to. If you want to take off for another reason this is how. Take brass nose cap off(2 screws) To pins in wood, be careful not to chip wood, drift out with punch. Remove tang screw. The wood stock is held together at brass shim with two pins, dont't bend too much. Helps to loosen the locks screws a little. I have two of same. I clean by pluging nipple and slussing cleaning solution up and down, finger on end of barrel, turn gun with nipple toward ground, unplug and drain and wipe dry. I always take out nipple and clean. Dilly

 

[arcticap]

It's possible to clean a BP rifle such as yours with only the use of BP solvents. I'd use 3 out of 4 sections of a Hoppe's BP Cleaning rod with a .41 caliber Kleen-bore brass cleaning jag attached to it. Then I'd cut homemade rectangular cleaning patches out of old tee shirts (about 3.5 X 4 inches or so), moisten it with BP solvent, and fold it over a few times until it fits very tightly in the bore. Keep swabbing the bore while refolding the patch to maximize all of the different clean sides of the patch. Repeat with maybe a half dozen patches until the patches come out absolutely clean. Stubborn deposits can be brushed out with a Tynex or bronze bore brush, but only if necessary. Then remove and soak the nipple and clean out screw in alcohol or solvent and clean inside the drum and all around the lockwork very thoroughly with solvent too.
Unscrew the tang screw if necessary and remove the front half of the stock along with the barrel.
Clean out any powder residue that enters the back of the lock and under the barrel. Then lubricate everything appropriately with oil (on a cotton swab) in the lock, and bore butter or similiar inside the barrel.
The bore butter will help to loosen & lift out any remaining residue, and after a day or two go back and swab out the bore another time or two to insure that all the residue has been removed. Make sure you remove all of the residue from the nipple & drum & cleanout screw threads too. Then reapply some more bore butter in the barrel with a nore butter saturated cleaning patch, and apply some to all of the threading with a cotton swab. Don't forget to scrub the hammer face clean too, and anywhere else powder residue might accumulate on the brass around the crown. Then coat all of the brass by rubbing it with a silicon cloth.
This procedure requires a little more elbow grease than if using soap and water, but doing it thoroughly can be very effective at removing most all harmful residue. But the patches must be very tight and it must be repeated until everything is very clean and bright. It can be laborious, but preserving the rifle for the long term depends on doing it right.
A brass or plastic bore protector/guide will help to protect the muzzle and crown from being damaged by the repetitive up & down motion of the cleaning rod.
A patch worm will help to pluck a patch out of the breech if it drops off the cleaning jag during barrel cleaning.

 

[Zonie]

If your question "how does barrel come apart..." is asking about actually taking the barrel apart, the answer is "It doesn't come apart."

That's not to say that someone couldn't actually take it apart. It is saying that these muzzleloading barrels are not supposed to be taken apart unless there is a serious problem. Taking the barrel apart is a "last resort" step that few people should even consider so, just go by what everyone else is telling you and everything will be fine.