Jukar Spain Rifle Pawn Shop Rescue

[TNridges]

Good day to all. I have just recently purchased my first Flintlock rifle and admittedly know little to nothing about them. I came across this rifle in a local pawn shop and it was cheap enough for me to take the risk, so I bought it. I have not applied any powder until I learn more but have confirmed that it will spark. As the internet in general has many resources to learn from, I am bringing my questions about the origin and age of the rifle to the forum rather than asking a bunch of “how toos” here.

On the barrel is stamped “Black Powder Only, Jukar, 107658, Spain”

A quick Google search returns some information and many photos of rifles and pistols made by Jukar. The stock on this rifle is very different than any I saw online.

Basically, I’m curious.

Any information or input would be appreciated.

“New to the Flintlock World”

TNridges

 

[ord sgt]

First, what calibre is your new rifle? A ruler will give an rough idea of bore size if you can't find any markings. 1/2 inch is .50 calibre.
Then you will need to acquire all of the necessary components. A good rod for cleaning and loading. I choose not to depend on the wood rod that comes with the rifle, as they can be easily broken. In the breaking, you might receive a nasty injury.
Once bore size is determined, real black powder should be obtained. Flintlocks and BP substitutes do not work well together. Round ball and cloth patches next. Powder measure is a must have. Absolutely no pouring powder directly from the powder can or powder horn. NO WAY, NO HOW!
Round ball should be at least 0.010 undersized. Patch thickness will vary. Much experimentation will be involved. The search for the right size ball, patch and powder charge is all a part of the fun of muzzle loading firearms.
You have found a huge resource of knowledge here. Use it to your advantage. Enjoy your journey into the wonderful world of black powder firearms.

 

[TNridges]

Thank you for you reply "ord sgt". From my rough estimations, I believe it to be a .45 cal. I haven't removed the barrel from the stock to completely inspect for markings.
Any ideas about the brand or origins?

Thanks again,

 

[ord sgt]

If you or someone you might know has access to a set of calipres, use it to measure across the top of the lands inside the barrel. 0.45 is 45/100 of an inch. .50 is 1/2 inch. Yours should be one of the two, as they are the most popular calibres on the market.

 

[SDSmlf]

Welcome to the forum from North Carolina.

First question for you. Have you confirmed the gun is not loaded?

Post a full length photograph of the gun, and someone may be able to help you identify exactly what you have. From the bits and pieces you are showing, appears to be a half stock made with Jukar, possibility CVA parts.

 

[Winterhawk]

Right. Jukar guns came from Spain, were fairly cheap. They also made guns for CVA, and some of those are the same as what Jukar sold here. I believe that they were predominately .45 caliber. Most you see are kits and have a two piece full stock.

As SDSmlf points out, first thing to determine is if it's loaded. Run the ramrod down as far as it will go and hold it at the muzzle with thumb and forefinger. Then pull it our of the bore and lay it next to the barrel with your thumb/forefinger at the muzzle, then see where the end of the ramrod is. Since Jukar used a patent breech, the end should be just in front of the touch hole. If it is any further it means there is something in there, not good!

~WH~

 

[mooman76]

What is the barrel length. I'm seeing some modifications from being original. Just a guess but probably made mid 70s to late 70. Most the guns then were 45 and later people were wanting bigger so they started making them in 50 caliber.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Have you tried the lock to see if you get a good shower of sparks?

One of the persistent complaints of the early Jukar locks was the weak springs and thin case hardening.

 

[Kansas Jake]

When did Jukar/CVA start using patent breeches? I had an early kit and the touch hole had to be drilled and there was no patent breech or touch hole liner. A picture of the pan are on lock with the frizzen open showing the lock are would be helpful. If this is your first flint lock and you determine it isn't loaded you might dry fire it with the frizzen closed to see if you get sparks. Looking at the flint it looks well worn and you probably need some new ones, but if you get some sparks at least you know the frizzen is good enough to shoot. Looking at the sight modification I suspect this rifle is a shooter and should provide some good fun. The week point of some of the Jukar locks are soft frizzens sometimes. The locks aren't great but do work.

 

[toot]

Welcome.

 

[Hermanoshawken]

Hi. Since I live in Spain, if you put a photo showing the entire weapon and another of the test bench stamps that are stamped on the barrel of the rifle, I can give you the information you need, such as the year it was manufactured. These marks are usually on one of the side faces of the barrel or on the bottom. Greetings from Spain.

 

[hanshi]

Welcome to MLF, TNridges. I don't have that much experience with Jukars except for a very old CVA percussion I once owned. I do know these rifles can be as accurate as many better quality guns. The flint locks can be problematic, however. If the lock doesn't spark well don't give up on it. They can be tuned up for reliable service.
Clean the rifle up, carefully remove the lock and barrel for inspection. The advice already posted is spot on and we welcome any other questions you may have. More photos will help.

 

[Winterhawk]

When did Jukar/CVA start using patent breeches?

I didn't know that they made guns without a patent breech. The ones I am familiar with are a strange design where on the cap gun the drum screws in both sides of the breech & barrel (the later first being screwed into the breech). It was then drilled out from the muzzle. What I understand is that for flintlocks the drum was sawed off even with the barrel flat to provide a touch hole.

Because they were drilled from the muzzle, you are advised NOT to remove the drum or touch hole, because when you reinstall them there is a good chance the hole drilled hole won't line up with the bore so the gun can't fire. I have seen several instances where the connecting hole was not drilled so the gun couldn't fire.

I hope this makes sense....
~WH~

 

[smo]

Cool find! I can’t say that I’ve ever saw one like it.
The lock does appear too be like those on the CVA’s.
But I don’t recall a butt plate like that on a CVA...
But I’m no expert by any means....

Congrats! Great find.