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Just bought my first flintlock. What do I need to take it out shooting, and what do I need to know to have a safe and enjoyable time.

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Just picked up a T/C Renegade, .54 Caliber, Set Trigger, Flintlock. I have experience shooting, but never a muzzleloader much less a flintlock. I fully intend for this not to become a wall hanger.

What do I need to know, and what do I need? I see some starter kits for sale, are any of them worth it? T

Thanks
 
You'll need:
  • Black powder, 2fg granule size to start out with. Some use the finer 3fg. This is where the experimentation comes in with load work up etc.
    • 4fg for priming. Some use whatever they've got in their main horns. That works, too. If you use 4fg to prime, you'll need some sort of a dispenser; a small horn, or flask.
  • Flints, get the knapped kind, not the cut agate. They come in different sizes. Be sure to get the size that fits your lock. Track of the Wolf can help there.
    • a screw driver fitted to the cock jaw screw for adjusting & installing flints
  • Patching These can be found already cut, or in long strips. Get a couple of thicknesses, .010" & .015"
    • a sharp fixed or folding blade knife, if you decide to cut the patches on the muzzle of your rifle is necessary. A pocket knife works fine as long as it is good & sharp.
  • Lube: You'll need to lubricate the patch before you load your round. Spit works well. And it's free.
  • Balls: .530" or possibly .535" Try both sizes
    • a short starter. Some people like these, others don't. Your choice. This is a little device that has a ball with two limbs; the short nub is to seat the ball even with the muzzle. The long limb, with a sharp smack on the ball pushes the ball about 6" farther down bore. They do make starting the ball a little easier.
  • A powder measure is a must Never pour powder directly into the bore of your rifle from a horn or flask.
  • A range/loading/cleaning rod & attachments such as these
    • loading/cleaning jag
    • a ball screw (you'll thank me for this suggestion the first time you load a ball & forget to pour the powder charge first!)
    • a breech plug scraper
  • Cleaning patches: a lot of 'em. Black powder is nasty, dirty stuff. And you'll need to wipe the bore of your rifle periodically.
  • Solvent: Water is sufficient, & it's free. There are many solvents on the market, as well as many home brew recipes. Personal preference rules here.
  • A vent pick: just use a straightened paper clip. From time to time, the vent on a flintlock rifle may become clogged with fouling. This is where a vent pick comes in handy.
  • A box to keep all this stuff in. A fishing tackle box is perfect.
  • Ear & Eye protection is strongly recommended.
A word about starter kits:
I don't know....some of the stuff included in these kits may not be necessary. Other little items can be found around the home, or workshop bench, like paper clips for vent picks, for example. I haven't really looked at starter kits thoroughly.

If the items I listed above are all included in a starter kit, then get one of those. Otherwise you can get all of the above at Track of the Wolf, Log Cabin Shop, or Dixie Gun Works.

Well...I think that's about it. Keep us posted as to how you're doing.
 
Last edited:
You'll need:
  • Black powder, 2fg granule size to start out with. Some use the finer 3fg. This is where the experimentation comes in with load work up etc.
    • 4fg for priming. Some use whatever they've got in their main horns. That works, too. If you use 4fg to prime, you'll need some sort of a dispenser; a small horn, or flask.
  • Flints, get the knapped kind, not the cut agate. They come in different sizes. Be sure to get the size that fits your lock. Track of the Wolf can help there.
    • a screw driver fitted to the cock jaw screw for adjusting & installing flints
  • Patching These can be found already cut, or in long strips. Get a couple of thicknesses, .010" & .015"
    • a sharp fixed or folding blade knife, if you decide to cut the patches on the muzzle of your rifle is necessary. A pocket knife works fine as long as it is good & sharp.
  • Lube: You'll need to lubricate the patch before you load your round. Spit works well. And it's free.
  • Balls: .530" or possibly .535" Try both sizes
    • a short starter. Some people like these, others don't. Your choice. This is a little device that has a ball with two limbs; the short nub is to seat the ball even with the muzzle. The long limb, with a sharp smack on the ball pushes the ball about 6" farther down bore. They do make starting the ball a little easier.
  • A powder measure is a must Never pour powder directly into the bore of your rifle from a horn or flask.
  • A range/loading/cleaning rod & attachments such as these
    • loading/cleaning jag
    • a ball screw (you'll thank me for this suggestion the first time you load a ball & forget to pour the powder charge first!)
    • a breech plug scraper
  • Cleaning patches: a lot of 'em. Black powder is nasty, dirty stuff. And you'll need to wipe the bore of your rifle periodically.
  • Solvent: Water is sufficient, & it's free. There are many solvents on the market, as well as many home brew recipes. Personal preference rules here.
  • A vent pick: just use a straightened paper clip. From time to time, the vent on a flintlock rifle may become clogged with fouling. This is where a vent pick comes in handy.
  • A box to keep all this stuff in. A fishing tackle box is perfect.
  • Ear & Eye protection is strongly recommended.
Well...I think that's about it. Keep us posted as to how you're doing.
A word about starter kits:
I don't know....some of the stuff included may not be necessary. I haven't really looked at them thoroughly. If the items I listed above are all included in a starter kit, then get one of those. Otherwise you can get all of the above at Track of the Wolf, Log Cabin Shop, or Dixie Gun Works.
Thank you so much for your clear and thorough answer. I’ll start shopping.

The flint on the rifle now sparks well. Almost burned my pants. But I’ll pick up more.

I don’t hunt. Im not opposed, but this will be a range darling. That considered, is it worth shooting anything besides regular ball. I know I can get Minié balls, if I’m shooting at paper at 100 yards, are they worth it?
 
@Bjodonnell123, you will want a spout for your can of powder to dispense the powder into the measure. I'll say it again, " When shooting a flint lock, only use real black powder. The substitute powders do not work well enough to even consider." At this stage in your learning of the finer points of shooting a flint lock rifle, you can use 3Fg powder. Use 10% less than the suggested 2Fg loads. The 3Fg will also work in the pan as 4F powder or Swiss Null B can be harder to find than real black powder.

Locate a traditional muzzleloading gun club. The members will help you learn about and care for your rifle.

Search on the Forum for more information on starting out.

Don't be afraid to ask questions here on the Forum. You will get answers.
 
Welcome to muzzleloading!!
A buddy or mentor is a good idea. Most of us seem to be of the learning style of seeing it done, and doing what's learned, rather than from a book or webpage, at least to start. Muzzleloaders and muzzleloading occur at a different pace, be patient.
 
Just picked up a T/C Renegade, .54 Caliber, Set Trigger, Flintlock. I have experience shooting, but never a muzzleloader much less a flintlock. I fully intend for this not to become a wall hanger.

What do I need to know, and what do I need? I see some starter kits for sale, are any of them worth it? T

Thanks
Congrats on your new TC. You have already received a lot of good advice. Here are a few additional suggestions:
Do a dry load run at home just like you are goiog to do in the field only don't really load the gun. How are you going to support the rifle when loading?? Like when hunting, or are you going to bring a V support that can be clamped on a bench? Don't ever load the gun wthout good support. I was at a match last summer and the guy next to me could not remove his nipple because his wrench was not with him. All the goodies to load and shoot need to be readily available.
Larry
 
I probably ought to save this and keep it to answer future questions. The quote is from 2020 but the instructions are valid. @Bjodonnell123, go and read the entire thread.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...n-what-all-else-ill-need.126530/#post-1743962

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/tables-useful-information-thread-links.125795/

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/flintlocks-how-to-shoot-them.38886/

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/determining-what-size-flint-you-need.49811/

There is also the
GOEX Powder
I recommend getting GOEX 3fg. The 3fg can be used for the main charge and for priming. It is almost as fast as 4fg. Most can't tell the difference in performance.

Powder Horn:
I would pass on a horn at this time since you are not intending to be period correct. You can get all the advantages of a horn with the the Knight flask and it comes with a measure. Unfortunately Track doesn't seem to carry this one.
Brass Black Powder Measure with Flask - Knight Rifles (knightoutdoors.com)

Priming Flask:
I like this one from Track as it is free flowing and you can use 3fg powder in it. Or if at some point in the future of course 4fg.
Flint priming flask, with free flow valve, brass - Track of the Wolf

Flints:
I use black English flints. In the special instructions on the order ask for flat on top and bottom. No humps.

Flint tools:
You will need a touch hole pick. A safety pin or paper clip of 1/16" or smaller will do. You will want a screwdriver to fit the bolts and screws on your rifle. Get two hollow ground screwdrivers that fit the lock bolts, and the jaw screw. You may want a small screwdriver to adjust the sights. The large screw driver can be used to knap the flint. Its too soon, but a spring vise will find a way into your tool kit eventually. A knapping nail or knapping awl can be made in a few minutes from a 16 penny nail by filing the tip flat then a notch in the flat tip. Use the handle of your screwdriver to tap the knapping awl.

Short Starter:
You will want a short starter.

Range Rod:
Loading, cleaning, and eventually ball pulling duties will be much easier with a good range rod. Track and October Country make good ones. The handle on a good range rod can be hooked over something to do the pulling. the rod pulling attachment is really not necessary.

Patches:
Getting your own patches from a fabric store is a good plan. Yes measure the material. Be aware that any indication of compressability in the store is obscured by the sizing in the fabric and actual measurements won't be valid until the material is washed and dried. I recommend # 40 cotton drill cloth from JoAnn's Fabrics. Its 0.018: thick and holds lubrication well. While at the store get some very cheap baby flannel or diaper flannel for cleaning patches.

Patch lubrication:
I'll go with the 1 part Ballistol and from4 to 7 parts water as the patch lubricant. I use it damp. Put it in your own bottle. For that matter patch lubricant that works can be most anything from spit to exotic blends of soaps, oils, rubbing alcohol and water or mink oil from Track of the Wolf for hunting

Gun Oil:
I use RIG as the grease for threads and parts that rub. I use WD-40 or rubbing alcohol as a water displacement in cleaning. I also use Ballistol after drying the water in cleaning as a penultimate cleaning step. For storage its a rust inhibiting lubricant such as Barricade.

Cleaner:
Black powder fouling is water soluble. The best cleaner is water with a few drops of dish washing soap if you use an oil based patch lubricant. I do use rubbing alcohol as the solvent for my wiping with a damp patch between shots. The Ballistol and water mix used for patch lube works too.

Possibles bag/ Shooting Pouch:
You want a bag just large enough to carry what you need for your shooting needs. There should be a few pockets to separate balls from patches and patch lube. Room to hold your flask with measure. A place for spare flints and a place for the vent pick and knapping tool and turn screw. I cut patches at the muzzle so a patch knife if good to have along. I often use a lock blade hunting knife that's razor sharp to cut the patches at the muzzle.
 
Read this and saw a guy just posted an ad in the classifieds here with a starter, pan primer, and adjustable powder measure for $35. I have picked up several items there at reasonable prices. What caliber is your flintlock?
 
Hey everyone, thank you for all the responses. I am in NJ. I am going to look for a club. I’ll also check out the classified
I looked at your zip code, and though you are kinda far, there is a very very good club in in Northeast Philly that I was a member of years back; Holmsburg Fish And Game. They still have a muzzleloader team I see on their website.
 
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