Just getting started, looking for pattern

[gbeauvin]

Hello! I'm just starting to look into the rendezvous/mountain man re-enactment scene, and hope to attend a shoot next month. I'm a rank beginner who was attracted by the lure of black powder and rock-banging (I don't have a flintlock yet, but they are drop-dead sexy).

I'm contemplating trying to get together some sort of outfit that's not jeans and a t-shirt for next month. I have a sewing machine and at least a passing acquaintance with it. Can someone recommend a source for a patterns for a shirt and pants appropriate to the southern tail-end of the appalachians (or slightly west thereof), from a time period when flintlocks would be appropriate?

I love the look of the southern mountain or tennessee rifles, and would prefer to start with an outfit that wouldn't look entirely out of place with such an arm.

thanks,
GB

 

[gbeauvin]

Also -- how would a mountain man or longhunter have held up his pants? I'm more than a little rotund, and generally find that (modern) pants do not stay up without either a belt or suspenders.

-GB

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Well the shirt I made from the directons, not pattern, in the book, Tidings From the 18th Century. by Beth Gilgun. You have to be able to sew a straight stitch, to use pins, and an iron, so it was just right for me. :grin: The shirt is made out of squares and rectangles. The man's shirt was pretty much the same from the F&I up into the 1820's, so although the book says "18th century" you can use the shirt. There's lots of other information too.

If you want a pattern, the Eagle View Man's Shirt is acceptable for fur trade. The vest or waistcoat will work if you do the "waistcoat" for pre-1800, and the "vest" for fur trade. The Eagle View for trousers will work. Knee breeches are a bit more complicated.

Are these the best patterns out there, no, you can find more complicated, more historic patterns out there, but for a beginner these three aren't too expensive, nor too complicated. Nobody at a rondyvoos is going to give you a hard time with these on. As for suspenders..., make them out of long, cloth straps, with each cloth strap made by folding it in half, sewing along the edge, turning it inside out, and pressing. Then use buttons on the trousers and button holes on the ends of the straps.

LD

 

[gbeauvin]

Thanks, LD!

I've made "medieval" shirts (more like pseudo-renn) without a pattern, and numerous gored t-tunics, so I'm not a complete stranger to winging it . Pants are something I've never made, though, so on slightly shakier ground there! I do like the looks of that pattern you linked, but unfortunately my pattern drafting skills fall far short of my not-so-extensive sewing skills, so I fear upsizing for an extra 8" of waist might be beyond my abilities.

Glad to hear some sort of suspenders would be appropriate, since the last thing I need is pants-around-the-knees!

-GB (not General Larry Platt!)

 

[gbeauvin]

I found these that look like they might do :
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/340/4/PATTERN-BP

And the "model" is even wearing suspenders .

-GB

 

[jamesthomas]

You also might try Jas. Townsend & Sons, I bought a frock coat pattern from them an it turned out great!. I also think you can buy completed outfits from them too. So you might find a shirt that will fit already made, don't know about the pants though.

 

[gunmaker43]

you can wear your suspenders under the over shirt, they go almost to the knee. Then a sash or belt for your knife. To make a simple pair of pants, cut up an old pair of your own pants- use that as a pattern. Cut off the waist band, cut along seams of the legs (leave the inside seam alone) makes way less sewing. Make out of about anything from linen to leather. Good luck. *****OR be adventurous and wear leggings and a clout under a LONG shirt...

 

[SpottedBull]

Cheap way to get pants...go to a painters store and buy painters pants...take off the hammer loop and back pockets. Heck you can even dye them if you like.

 

[Black Hand]

Cheap way to get pants...go to a painters store and buy painters pants...take off the hammer loop and back pockets. Heck you can even dye them if you like.

No offense, but they will still look like painters pants without loops & pockets...
The cut, fit and construction are not the same as period trowsers.

 

[Reb_Cav2]

I agree that the pants would look like modern pants but I went to a seminar about reenacting and they reminded all of us that you get started with what you can afford and when you need new you try to upgrade. for example if all you can get right now is a pair of painter pants when you replace them you try not to do so with another pair of painter pants but with a more Period or Historically correct pair. Always try to improve your persona.
Best of luck in getting all your gear.

 

[Black Hand]

Reb,
I completely agree!
Start were you can and improve from there.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Cheap way to get pants...go to a painters store and buy painters pants...take off the hammer loop and back pockets. Heck you can even dye them if you like.

OK well on the subject of painter's pants..., buy a pair ....take a seam ripper and open the outer and inner leg seams up to the butt cheeks and crotch. They are "French" seams and they are the same as used on modern Jeans, and that's what makes the trousers look wrong. Open the hem as well. Sew a simple seam, and a simple hem. Make sure your overshirt comes down past where the simple seams end and the factory seams begin, and you will be fine. I would dye mine brown like they had been treated to a walnut bath...

The pattern from Buckaroo Bobbins should work if you have the time.

LD

 

[gbeauvin]

Thanks, everyone. If that pattern is vaguely correct, then I'm going to try to sew up a pair in brown linen. It's the only pattern I've found so far that goes up to a 50" waist. I appreciate the tips (re: modified painters pants) and if I run out of time I'll probably do that, but I need to knock the rust off my sewing skills anyway. I'm assuming wooden buttons would be best? Or would some tortoise-shellish plastic ones do?

-GB

 

[Rifleman1776]

There are tons of sources for period patterns out there. Way too many to list, just do some searches. The Frontier Folk Message Board can help a lot. My wife used to buy commercial patterns and modify them slightly. Muzzle Blasts magazine has many advertisers with patterns.
BTW, if ye use elk hide for the britches they will grow with you to give a nice fit always. DAMHIK :redface: :wink:

 

[Black Hand]

I'm assuming wooden buttons would be best? Or would some tortoise-shellish plastic ones do?

Horn, bone, brass, pewter - no wood or plastic.

If nothing else, find some small, shanked, solid metal buttons at the fabric store and cover them in the cloth used to make the pants. Appropriate (PC/HC) shanked pewter buttons are easily (and cheaply) available from a variety of vendors.

 

[gbeauvin]

Thanks, guys. I'm hoping I'm full-grown already, but my budget and schedule will dictate that I use fabric already resident in the stache anyways. I'll do some more searching, but so far that buckaroo bobbin is what I'm leaning towards (mostly because it's the only one i've seen that goes big enough).

Appreciate the button info, I'll see what I can find locally, but buttons should be easy enough to upgrade if needed. Of course since i'm mail-ordering the pattern i might as well mail-order some better buttons while I'm at it!

-GB

 

[gbeauvin]

Looks like River Junction was clearing out their patterns, so I put the pants in my cart :
http://www.riverjunction.com/Pattern--Broadfall-Pants--BBXX34_p_2183.html

but then I couldn't bring myself to spen $6 shipping a single $6 item so I put their "matching" shirt pattern in the basket too and checked out
http://www.riverjunction.com/Pattern--Trailblazer-Shirt_p_2688.html

So now more questions! First, are any of those shirt varients appropriate for a southern applachian man within a few decades of the turn of the century?

Second, does anyone have experience with either of these patterns? If so I'd appreciate any "lessons learned".

Lastly (for now), is the trousers pattern correct enough to warrant hand-stitching? I'm satisfied with "good enough", but i'd like to try my hand at hand-stitching. If I'm going to the effort of a more authentic seam, though, I'd like to be sure the cut of the garment is authentic as well!

-GB

 

[gbeauvin]

The pattern got here! I was a little disappointed to have to tape the pieces together (the pattern is printed on sheets of newsprint, and the sheets aren't big enough to hold the entire front or back piece... one is pieced together from 3 pieces and the other from 2), but I've got everything cut out and taped up for my size. Now I've got to get some cheap fabric for a model -- I hate to do the work twice, but I don't have enough linen to make 2 pair if the first don't fit right (or if I screw them up!).


-GB

 

[Rifleman1776]

I'd like to be sure the cut of the garment is authentic as well!

I believe pinning down a perzactly correct 'cut' or pattern for a certain time period will be impossible. I know some of the serious hc/pc types out there will argue "it has to be just like this". But, many/most clothes were made by hand at home and unlikely printed patterns were available. The maker did what her mother taught her to do and she did it by eyeball.
Do your research to see what was generally used and go for it.

 

[Black Hand]

I know some of the serious hc/pc types out there will argue "it has to be just like this".

And they would be correct in saying this...

Clothing cut, fit and style are specific to a period (this is why a 1750s vest, breeches or coat are different from a 1770s vest, breeches or coat, etc. Shirts seem to change very little, except for minor changes in collar and cuff size/shape). You might find an older person wearing clothing of an older style, but even then, people wanted the most recent fashions. Older garments were also re-tailored to match the current style if new couldn't be afforded.

With a little looking, color pictures of many original articles of clothing can be found on the internet (e.g., Met Museum, Pinterest, other museums). See for yourself.