I see nothing wrong with horse meat - or kangaroo - or any red meat that's not human - (yet)
The point I was trying to make is that, The rise in popularity of corned beef in America coincided with the same period when cars replaced horses. The same time when millions of horses entered the U.S. food chain. The classic popular dish of corned beef and cabbage was likely made with horse meat during that time. Especially when you consider proximity of cattle vs. horses to the majority of Irish immigrants living in large cities. Large cattle production was in the west and poor Irish immigrants crowded the big cities along with lots of horses that needed disposing of.
Similar events happened around the Civil War. As Americans endured through the Panic of 1857 and a pre-Civil War recession, butchers on the East coast began to cut corners by secretly selling horse meat marketed as beef, and offering it at substantially lower prices to entice the meat-deprived public. Newspapers reported that Bostonians were indulging in “liberal quantities of sausages for lunch daily” -- until they found out they’d been eating horse.
Then suddenly, at the turn of the 20th century, horse meat gained an underground cult following in the United States. Once only eaten in times of economic struggle, its taboo nature now gave it an aura of mystery; wealthy, educated “sirs” indulged in it with reckless abandon.
At Kansas City’s Veterinary College’s swanky graduation ceremony in 1898, “not a morsel of meat other than the flesh of horse” was served. “From soup to roast, it was all horse,” reported the Times. “The students and faculty of the college...made merry, and insisted that the repast was appetizing.”
Not to be left out, Chicagoans began to indulge in horse meat to the tune of 200,000 pounds per month -- or about 500 horses. “A great many shops in the city are selling large quantities of horse meat every week,” then-Food Commissioner R.W. Patterson noted, “and the people who are buying it keep coming back for more, showing that they like it.”
National Headline, June 1902
In 1905, Harvard University’s Faculty Club integrated “horse steaks” into their menu. “Its very oddity -- even repulsiveness to the outside world -- reinforced their sense of being members of a unique and special tribe,” wrote the Times. (Indeed, the dish was so revered by the staff, that it continued to be served well into the 1970s, despite social stigmas.)
The mindset toward horse consumption began to shift -- partly in thanks to a changing culinary landscape. Between 1900 and 1910, the number of food and dairy cattle in the US decreased by nearly 10%; in the same time period, the US population increased by 27%, creating a shortage of meat. Whereas animal rights groups once opposed horse slaughter, they now began to endorse it as more humane than forcing aging, crippled animals to work.
With the introduction of the 1908 Model-T and the widespread use of the automobile, horses also began to lose their luster a bit as man’s faithful companions; this eased apprehension about putting them on the table with a side of potatoes (“It is becoming much too expensive a luxury to feed a horse,” argued one critic).
At the same time, the war in Europe was draining the U.S. of food supplies at an alarming rate. By 1915, New York City’s Board of Health, which had once rejected horse meat as “unsanitary,” now touted it is a sustainable wartime alternative for meatless U.S. citizens. “No longer will the worn out horse find his way to the bone-yard,” proclaimed the board’s Commissioner. “Instead, he will be fattened up in order to give the thrifty another source of food supply.”
Prominent voices began to sprout up championing the merits of the meat. Dean Hoskins, an influential veterinarian at N.Y.U., toured the Eastern states, lecturing in its defense. “It is palatable, tender, and sweet,” he told a crowd at one conference. “There is no reason that horses physically unfit for work, but otherwise healthy, shouldn’t be used as food.”
“There is no scientific reason why horse meat, now sold in some cities, should not be eaten,” another commenter opined. “It is sweeter than beef, but coarser, heavier, stringier and darker.”
The economics of the meat backed up these assertions: at 15 cents per pound, it was 3 times less expensive than beef and pork.