Just picked up an '89 CVA Hunter-Hawken .50

[Baxter]

Was. But you are correct.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I bought BP from Powder Inc. in Clarksville when I was going through there 4 or 5 years ago. They didn’t have a store front so you may want to call ahead if you are picking it up.

 

[OldRust]

Sans scope:

Hi Rodney Welcome to the forum. Now I know what that picture is of <G> and it looks like a lot of fun for not a lot of money. Good find and buy ! Check the inside of your lock plate, most L&R's that I have handled have L&R stamped into them. Thanks

 

[Rodney Johnson]

Hi Rodney Welcome to the forum. Now I know what that picture is of <G> and it looks like a lot of fun for not a lot of money. Good find and buy ! Check the inside of your lock plate, most L&R's that I have handled have L&R stamped into them. Thanks

Hey OldRust, thanks for the welcome! I will check the lock plate. I have noticed from looking at some pictures of this particular model ('Hunter-Hawkin") on the web that this lock is seen on most of those other guns. It isn't the usual Maslin type lock with the stamped engraving - this one has no engraving and reminded me of the plain musket locks, though this one doesn't really look like a musket lock. Thanks again for the welcome!

 

[Rodney Johnson]

Finally got around to taking the lock off. Don't see any markings. Must be a "standard" CVA "Hawken" lock?

 

[Eutycus]

Congrats in your find. Once and a while you stumble across a good buy at a pawn shop. I like the look and feel of a CVA. Just how is the year of manufacture determined on a "other than Italian" model?

 

[Rodney Johnson]

Congrats in your find. Once and a while you stumble across a good buy at a pawn shop. I like the look and feel of a CVA. Just how is the year of manufacture determined on a "other than Italian" model?

Thanks Eutycus! There are several fairly good looking "older" CVA MLs here in NW Arkansas. I checked some of the bigger pawns and one or two gun stores in the area and I saw 8 or 9 wood stock muzzleloaders. Two T/Cs, one Armsport, and the rest were CVAs. This one came to my shoulder and had the best "feel". Good "balance". And I liked the sight "picture" through the iron sights (not as well when it had the scope still on, but really nice after I took it off). The serial number on the left side of the barrel starts with "89" and then a space and then a six digit number. That's what made me first think it was made in 1989. Then on the right side it has "I°2" - I looked that up on a chart that I found on the web and sure enough it means 1989 - probably a "proof" date rather than a manufacture date, but I am not sure about that - only that it is over there on that side with the other numbers about the pressure. Maybe someone else here reading this with more knowledge will know the answer for certain about that.

 

[Rodney Johnson]

When I'm at Ozark Armory or any pawn store, I always look at the used wood stock muzzleloaders. They always seem to have a low price. One guy at a pawn said "they don't sell very well". I passed up buying a CVA "Kentucky" in .45 the other day for $75 (just like the kit one that I put together back in 1985 - and still have). I think it sold pretty quick because it was gone the next time I went in. I should have bought that one - it was "cheap", and the one I have shoots well.

 

[Rodney Johnson]

I'm still a tad shocked at current prices for lock/stock/barrel parts to build your own. But that's just me. I'll get around to it one of these days. My bike is paid for this month and I haven't rode it in over a year. It is so dang heavy and I feel wore out when I get back from a ride. I'll sell it and use the money to get the stuff to make a (hopefully) nice full stock Hawken style percussion rifle.

 

[Eric Krewson]

If you shoot the fake stuff clean your rifle meticulously as soon as you finish shooting and you won't have any problems. The fake stuff is very corrosive.

Left on the back burner for a bit and forgotten to clean and your barrel will look like my friends. This barrel got a trip to Bobby Hoyt for a rebore.

 

[Eutycus]

That meticulous cleaning is one of the major setbacks on buying a used gun from a pawn shop ( or most anywhere else). You just don't know how well it was cleaned. Alot of these belonged to "beginners" who probably didn't know how or what product to use. But as stated earlier sometimes you stumble upon a good buy. And it looks like you did. Good luck

 

[Eutycus]

My CVAs start with 00 and 01. I have my doubts about the first 2 numbers being the date of manufacture. I've had these rifles since the 80s. Maybe a differant system was used when CVAs were made overseas?

 

[Zonie]

Except for a limited number of the first version of the Mountain Rifles, CVA's were always made overseas. The Mountain Rifles that were made here are stamped MADE IN U.S.A.

Almost all of them except for the cap & ball revolvers were made in Spain. The revolvers were made in Italy.

Yes, it's possible they changed the requirements for the serial numbers they use on their guns. There are no governmental requirements for serial numbers, so each company does pretty much as they please.

 

[Eutycus]

Thanks, I could have sworn I read somewhere on this forum about "American Made CVAs". I must be mistaken.

 

[Zonie]

You must have been writing while I was editing. Notice, I added the comment about the MADE IN U.S.A. rifles to my last post.

 

[Eutycus]

Okay thanks. Now I know I'm not completely "loosing it".

 

[Eutycus]

Oh, what Italian gunmaker produced the revolvers?

 

[Rodney Johnson]

Eric Krewson,
Thanks for the advice. I've been cleaning the bore on this one for the last few days. It was really "tarry" down in the breech, but I'm working on it. All I had is No. 9, which I've read doesn't really hurt to use, just doesn't do the job nearly as well as BP specific stuff. Can't find any Hoppe's No. 9 BP bore cleaner and patch lube here locally (at least yet). I just made 40 oz of MAP to use until I can try the Hoppes. The MAP is surprisingly slippery until it dries. I really need to order a brass breech scraper I suppose. The rifle is clean enough to shoot now though I think. I've encountered some kind of tiny "hang up" down in the bore which measures approximately about an inch away from where the drum goes into the barrel/breech (muzzle end - not breech end). Not sure exactly what is causing it, but it will snag the patch (cheap synthetic patch, not natural fiber) on a jag and slightly "tear" at it. I measured the scope mount screw holes as best I could using a paper clip with my thumb nail pressed against it and measuring with an old 6 inch General No. 634 steel rule from my metal fab days (so not all that precise), and it looks like they are a tad over 1/8" deep. The barrel walls appear to be 3/16" thick. Should I leave the screws that held the scope on the barrel in the holes? Seems that would be better than leaving them "unfilled".

 

[Rodney Johnson]

Here is the best picture of the inside of the barrel (just inside the muzzle) that I was able to take with my phone. My barrel looks pretty "janky". Is that lead fouling in the (barely perceivable) grooves? Maybe this rifle was really only worth $50, but I paid $99, lol. Going to keep on cleaning it and then shoot it and see what kind of a group I can get. Does that lead and rust "remover" stuff really work?

 

[SDSmlf]

I always have a gallon of EvaporRust in the shop. Have some WWII items soaking right now. Does not remove pits and craters, but does get the rust. But DO NOT get it on any of the bluing unless you plan to refinish. Will wash the bluing away.

Likely not lead fouling. You wouldn’t get that from patched round balls, only conicals. Pure lead conicals that are lubricated usually do not leave a lot of lead in the barrel.