Kerosene?

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Point taken, but here in the land of the Aussie, many of our blokes use WD40 as a body cologne before stepping out on Friday and Saturday nights; it drives the women nuts !
Hear in AK we learned to spray our salmon egg bait clusters with it and it worked so well it has been outlawed as chumming !
 
Hear in AK we learned to spray our salmon egg bait clusters with it and it worked so well it has been outlawed as chumming !

Believe it or not I actually corresponded with a Texas lady back in the late 90's and had her believing that most Australian Men wore WD40 as After Shave Cologne !
She was a beautiful blonde 40 year old although dumb as a bag of rocks, but I'm sure if I'd flown over there to meet her my callous heart would have melted.
 
Believe it or not I actually corresponded with a Texas lady back in the late 90's and had her believing that most Australian Men wore WD40 as After Shave Cologne !
She was a beautiful blonde 40 year old although dumb as a bag of rocks, but I'm sure if I'd flown over there to meet her my callous heart would have melted.
😄
 
I’m lucky to have a laundry tube with a 3’ hoses attached to the faucet outlet.
Hot tap water blasts out loose carbon fouling and dissolves potassium salt residues, that’s the main reason for using water to clean BP fouling to dissolve the salts. If no potassium salt were present in the gun powder then clean up would be the same as cleaning up after firing smokeless powder. Carbon is carbon no mater the source of it.

Squirting 99% pure alcohol with a syringe body into the trigger/action area within the frame works well to absorb water trapped in this area.
Alcohol absorbs water and holds it, that’s why your whiskey doesn’t separate into an alcohol/water emulsion.

I shake out the alcohol as best I can as I don’t have an airgun and compressor.
After the shake out I spray in an aerosol brake cleaner (outdoors), this is also shaken out but it evaporates fast.

I use my shop vac as a reverse air gun to accelerate the brake cleaner removal by suction aiding evaporation.

Aerosol spray gun oil, dispensed through the straw that plugs into the sprayer cans nozzle.
The oil is sprayed into the nooks and crannies and parts within the trigger/action area.
Excess spray oil is rolled around inside the allowed to drip out while other parts are being cleaned.

A film of bullet lube is always present sliming the outside surface metal so it gets hosed off first with hot water then cold to remove heat from the metal to halt flash rusting.

The new Dawn Platinum Plus Powerwash spray foam dish cleaning detergent works super to degrease or de slime the outside surface and other parts. A bore brush and weapons brush with the power wash foam cleans theses parts.

Rinse well, dry well.
Oil all the metal, grease the arbor and cylinder hole and nipple threads and cylinder threaded holes.
A can of compressed air for removing dust from computers works great to remove the moisture from trigger areas.
 
Does the grease on the shield attract a lot of fouling and debris ?
It captures a lot of fouling on the surface of the grease, underneath stays relatively clean. An action shield really cuts down the fouling that gets past the slot in the hammer and frame. Add the grease and a lot of the fouling is kept out of the innards.
 
Does the grease on the shield attract a lot of fouling and debris ?
After shooting and cleaning I repack (inject) grease into the internals. There is overflow grease. Before shooting I cycle the gun several times which gets the excess grease out of the gun in the trigger and hammer area. That gets cleaned up and repeated until the grease is no longer a factor so to answer your question, no, I don't have that problem.
 
Believe it or not I actually corresponded with a Texas lady back in the late 90's and had her believing that most Australian Men wore WD40 as After Shave Cologne !
She was a beautiful blonde 40 year old although dumb as a bag of rocks, but I'm sure if I'd flown over there to meet her my callous heart would have melted.
Oh you silver tongued devil, might of been worth trying though.
 
It was my Wifes reaction to Hoppes 9 that got me on the path to real gun cleaners. It was making her sick and cleaning guns outside is no fun. I never could get a gun completely clean with Hoppes anyway.

A guy with a Hawkeye borescope delved deep into it. While they probably are not the only non haz and low odor cleaners, he came up with Boretech and Carbon Killer 2000 (CK2K) as ones that worked. Solvents (Kerosene) work on a brute force approach. CK2K are focused chemistry to break up0 carbon or copper (Boretech also cleans carbon but not as good as CK2K)

I don't push my rifle rounds and I don't get copper so mainly I used CK2K. I have cleaned some mil surplus guns that had some copper as well as the family 270 that had copper and carbon layers. It had been religiously cleaned but with Hoppes and Hoppes cleans some but not all so it keep layering on.

They work and they work well. The problem with BP is they created so much crud that while the CK2K works, its a mess to start with. Cartridge shooting creates carbon but very mild.

Ergo, while the BP fouling is bad, its also very easily removed with soap and water (hot water). So that is what I use and it works wonderfully.
 
I have used JB compound for years when I want to get back all the way down to barrel steel ! The only method better I'm aware of is lead slug barrel lapping in 3 grades of grit that I often use.
 
Many shotguns that are 'sticky' are that way as a result of using WD-40; it gunks things up ultimately. Old time experienced gunsmiths will tell you this.
My friend, a 50+ year gunsmith, says WD-40 leaves a layer of film which hardens into a tarnish, which gunks up the innards of any gun. He's glad many shooters use it, he says that and aluminum cleaning rods put his son thru college.
 
My friend, a 50+ year gunsmith, says WD-40 leaves a layer of film which hardens into a tarnish, which gunks up the innards of any gun. He's glad many shooters use it, he says that and aluminum cleaning rods put his son thru college.
I agree and before it evaporates leaving its film, it desolves bluing over time doing it's penetrating oil action.
 
I mean some people like the worn look, but pretending you can let bluing rust over and over without consequence is just silly.

I really detest it when someone misquotes and in this case I have made it clear, the flash rust gets removed - you are making a mountain out of a molehill or trying to. In 10,000 years maybe its an issue.

I spent 30 years education and getting myself educated on air. You don't have a clue. Granted you are not unusual in your ignorance or your illusions. But then I started my air career on t he pipeline driving trucks they decided that they did not need tanner gas for. Pretty funny coming up on Joe rig in the road stuck because the relief vented and stuck open due to ice.

The answer to a BP pistol cleaning is per 45D, pack it with synthetic grease.
 
Thanks for that, tried it an’ it works.
One of the joys of this forum is the tips on doing things.

Has anyone tried just gluing a shield to the hammer?
I learned that from home winemaking and reusing commercial bottles. Some labels come of easy with water, others do not or leave a sticky residue that soap and water won't work on. WD 40 does the job.
 


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