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Apparently you will have to actually do one to understand how the rivet never contacts anything in it's movement when properly fit.Last comment was for Mr DeLand.
Apparently you will have to actually do one to understand how the rivet never contacts anything in it's movement when properly fit.Last comment was for Mr DeLand.
Hear in AK we learned to spray our salmon egg bait clusters with it and it worked so well it has been outlawed as chumming !Point taken, but here in the land of the Aussie, many of our blokes use WD40 as a body cologne before stepping out on Friday and Saturday nights; it drives the women nuts !
Does the grease on the shield attract a lot of fouling and debris ?I do about the same thing. Just notch the hammer and solder the shield in place. I have about zero concerns about the hammer being weakened.View attachment 380316
Hear in AK we learned to spray our salmon egg bait clusters with it and it worked so well it has been outlawed as chumming !
Believe it or not I actually corresponded with a Texas lady back in the late 90's and had her believing that most Australian Men wore WD40 as After Shave Cologne !
She was a beautiful blonde 40 year old although dumb as a bag of rocks, but I'm sure if I'd flown over there to meet her my callous heart would have melted.
A can of compressed air for removing dust from computers works great to remove the moisture from trigger areas.I’m lucky to have a laundry tube with a 3’ hoses attached to the faucet outlet.
Hot tap water blasts out loose carbon fouling and dissolves potassium salt residues, that’s the main reason for using water to clean BP fouling to dissolve the salts. If no potassium salt were present in the gun powder then clean up would be the same as cleaning up after firing smokeless powder. Carbon is carbon no mater the source of it.
Squirting 99% pure alcohol with a syringe body into the trigger/action area within the frame works well to absorb water trapped in this area.
Alcohol absorbs water and holds it, that’s why your whiskey doesn’t separate into an alcohol/water emulsion.
I shake out the alcohol as best I can as I don’t have an airgun and compressor.
After the shake out I spray in an aerosol brake cleaner (outdoors), this is also shaken out but it evaporates fast.
I use my shop vac as a reverse air gun to accelerate the brake cleaner removal by suction aiding evaporation.
Aerosol spray gun oil, dispensed through the straw that plugs into the sprayer cans nozzle.
The oil is sprayed into the nooks and crannies and parts within the trigger/action area.
Excess spray oil is rolled around inside the allowed to drip out while other parts are being cleaned.
A film of bullet lube is always present sliming the outside surface metal so it gets hosed off first with hot water then cold to remove heat from the metal to halt flash rusting.
The new Dawn Platinum Plus Powerwash spray foam dish cleaning detergent works super to degrease or de slime the outside surface and other parts. A bore brush and weapons brush with the power wash foam cleans theses parts.
Rinse well, dry well.
Oil all the metal, grease the arbor and cylinder hole and nipple threads and cylinder threaded holes.
It captures a lot of fouling on the surface of the grease, underneath stays relatively clean. An action shield really cuts down the fouling that gets past the slot in the hammer and frame. Add the grease and a lot of the fouling is kept out of the innards.Does the grease on the shield attract a lot of fouling and debris ?
After shooting and cleaning I repack (inject) grease into the internals. There is overflow grease. Before shooting I cycle the gun several times which gets the excess grease out of the gun in the trigger and hammer area. That gets cleaned up and repeated until the grease is no longer a factor so to answer your question, no, I don't have that problem.Does the grease on the shield attract a lot of fouling and debris ?
Exactly and anything else it does is clearly incidental. When somebody tells me it's a superior lubricant and even cures warts & leprosy....I tend to back away.True.
WD stands for "Water Displacing" as it was designed for that purpose
My wife has the same reaction to Hoppes # 9.Point taken, but here in the land of the Aussie, many of our blokes use WD40 as a body cologne before stepping out on Friday and Saturday nights; it drives the women nuts !
It does do a pretty good job of dissolving label glue from bottles that have the sticky non-water-soluble type that you want to clean up.Exactly and anything else it does is clearly incidental. When somebody tells me it's a superior lubricant and even cures warts & leprosy....I tend to back away.
Kevin
I always tell my son in his search for a good wife to look for the gal who uses a dab of Hoppes #9 behind each ear !My wife has the same reaction to Hoppes # 9.![]()
Oh you silver tongued devil, might of been worth trying though.Believe it or not I actually corresponded with a Texas lady back in the late 90's and had her believing that most Australian Men wore WD40 as After Shave Cologne !
She was a beautiful blonde 40 year old although dumb as a bag of rocks, but I'm sure if I'd flown over there to meet her my callous heart would have melted.
My friend, a 50+ year gunsmith, says WD-40 leaves a layer of film which hardens into a tarnish, which gunks up the innards of any gun. He's glad many shooters use it, he says that and aluminum cleaning rods put his son thru college.Many shotguns that are 'sticky' are that way as a result of using WD-40; it gunks things up ultimately. Old time experienced gunsmiths will tell you this.
I agree and before it evaporates leaving its film, it desolves bluing over time doing it's penetrating oil action.My friend, a 50+ year gunsmith, says WD-40 leaves a layer of film which hardens into a tarnish, which gunks up the innards of any gun. He's glad many shooters use it, he says that and aluminum cleaning rods put his son thru college.
I mean some people like the worn look, but pretending you can let bluing rust over and over without consequence is just silly.
Thanks for that, tried it an’ it works.It does do a pretty good job of dissolving label glue from bottles that have the sticky non-water-soluble type that you want to clean up.
I learned that from home winemaking and reusing commercial bottles. Some labels come of easy with water, others do not or leave a sticky residue that soap and water won't work on. WD 40 does the job.Thanks for that, tried it an’ it works.
One of the joys of this forum is the tips on doing things.
Has anyone tried just gluing a shield to the hammer?