Kibler extra fancy question

[Mark E. Prickett]

On Jim's YouTube videos he showed finishing a SMR extra fancy maple stock using Aquafortis then heat and then permalyn sealer. On another video I see both above and then permalyn gun stock finish on top of them. I have on hand Ye Original Aquafortis, Permalyn sealer and Permalyn gun stock finish. What is best to use and in what order.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Whisker the stock first and sand off the projections, Aqufortis, heat to blush, sealer and finish. Some people use the sealer as a finish because it soaks in better and put on a lot of coats.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Some, including myself, like what looks like a warmer tone from the use of linseed oil after the stain, followed by the Permalyn or poly. The trick is to let the oil cure for a few weeks before adding the topcoats. That takes patience or the will power not to hurry the process.

 

[Phil Coffins]

And then there’s folks that rub the first coat of finish in with gray scotch brite and wipe off the extra to enhance the curl. Experiment!

 

[BillKilgore]

There are numerous you tube videos on finishing maple stocks. Whiskering involves wiping a damp cloth over the wood. Let it soak in for 30-60 seconds, then dry the area with a heat gun. This brings small wood fibers up. Sand the fuzzies off with 220 grit sandpaper, then repeat 3-4 times.

After wiskering the wood until no further fibers curl up, then apply aqua fortis as directed. I wait 30-60 seconds, then blush the wood with a heat gun. The transition from a nasty green/gray to a beautiful golden brown is impressive. Be careful with the heat gun as it can scorch edges of the wood. You can apply multiple coats of aqua fortis for a darked color. Remember, many oils, varnish, etc. can make the color a little darker.

Post some pics as you go along.

 

[Mark E. Prickett]

There are numerous you tube videos on finishing maple stocks. Whiskering involves wiping a damp cloth over the wood. Let it soak in for 30-60 seconds, then dry the area with a heat gun. This brings small wood fibers up. Sand the fuzzies off with 220 grit sandpaper, then repeat 3-4 times.

After wiskering the wood until no further fibers curl up, then apply aqua fortis as directed. I wait 30-60 seconds, then blush the wood with a heat gun. The transition from a nasty green/gray to a beautiful golden brown is impressive. Be careful with the heat gun as it can scorch edges of the wood. You can apply multiple coats of aqua fortis for a darked color. Remember, many oils, varnish, etc. can make the color a little darker.

Post some pics as you go along.

Thanks, this will be my first build and I'm a little nervous. When the gun gets here I'll post the build. I'm definitely taking my time with the wood because I'm a metal worker by trade. No wood experience at all.

 

[Zutt-man]

Thanks, this will be my first build and I'm a little nervous. When the gun gets here I'll post the build. I'm definitely taking my time with the wood because I'm a metal worker by trade. No wood experience at all.

It’s a piece of cake. I have a business (albeit side business) working with wood slabs. Properly sand, follow the steps for aqua fortis, apply oil, and then sealer or poly.

Here is my build
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/kibler-colonial-assembly-timeline.136570/

 

[BillKilgore]

Thanks, this will be my first build and I'm a little nervous. When the gun gets here I'll post the build. I'm definitely taking my time with the wood because I'm a metal worker by trade. No wood experience at all.

Go slowly, but don’t worry. Any mistakes can be re-sanded. Aqua fortis is forgiving if you need to blend a new area with an existing area. It is more difficult to blend after an oil, varnish, poly, etc. is applied on top of Aqua fortis.